Wrasse Hierarchy - Stocking Plan

[Swensos]

I'm in the planning stages of my 90 gallon reef tank, and I want to have a wrasse dominated tank.

I've been reading about the fairy wrasse groups and was thinking I could avoid some aggression by trying to avoid species from the same groups. Does that hypothesis hold any water?

Also, I wanted to get some advice from those with experience about which wrasses to introduce first and last and which might be more trouble than they're worth. If any are problematic, please suggest safer options. Also, let me know if anything here is just a stupid idea. I don't want to risk any lives because of my inexperience or lack of preparation. This stocking plan will, of course, take years.

2-3 Pygmy Wrasses
Yellow Banded (Wetmorella nigropinnata)
White Banded (Wetmorella albofasciata)
Tanaka's Pygmy (Wetmorella tanakai)
Pink-Streaked (Pseudocheilinops ataenia)

1 Potter's Leopard Wrasse (Macropharyngodon geoffroyi)

1-2 Halichoeres
Dusky Wrasse (Halichoeres annularis), and/or
Red-Lined Wrasse (Halichoeres bi)ocellatus)

3-4 Flasher Wrasses
Carpenter (Paracheilinus carpenteri)
Line-Spot (Paracheilinus lineopunctatus)
Filamented (Paracheilinus filamentosus)
Eight-Line (Paracheilinus octotaenia)

4-6 Fairy Wrasses
Labout's (Cirrhilabrus laboutei)
Orange-backed (Cirrhilabrus aurantidorsalis)
Pink Margin (Cirrhilabrus rubrimarginatus)
Red Velvet (Cirrhilabrus rubrisquamis)
Pin-Tail (Cirrhilabrus cf. lanceolatus)
Tri-color (Cirrhilabrus lubbocki)
Pylei (Cirrhilabrus pylei)

 

[brad]

I'd avoid the Halichoeres, can be aggressive.

I had a 120, and for 10 years was told it was only big enough for 1 wrasse at a time and followed that rule. I have 2 wrasses in m 270 now, and would not hesitate to add another non-aggressive wrasse.

 

[ilikefish34]

I'm won't go far into the, "how many fish" you can have debate... some on this forum are minimalist and others cram way more in there than I thought was possible--with success... personally, I fall somewhere in-between and feel that there are too many fish on this list and would look to trim down to what you'll be the happiest with... but I'm glad to see that your hear to do the homework first.

But here's a great link from a member that really knows their stuff:

http://www.3reef.com/threads/all-about-reef-safe-wrasses.122261/

Sometimes the most heavily populated tanks disperse the aggression amongst so many that none get picked on relentlessly--for example, I like your list of Flashers but I would leave the Eight-line out because they can be bullies but it could work in a large, heavily populated aquarium. The downside of a packed tanked is that more timid species like the Pygmy wrasse can waste away by not competing for food and even with that skimmer, the tank can be overfed.

Regardless of the advice given on the order of introduction, an acclimation box will be a must--along with a back-up plan if things don't work out.

Good Luck!
Mike

 

[hogfanreefer]

I wouldn't hesitate to put H. biocellatus in that bunch. I have two Halichoeres in my tank (chrysus and chrysotaenia) and they are very laid back, no problems at all

The flashers shouldn't be any problem, the eight line being the most aggressive.

The Fairy wrasse, I'd leave off the red velvet. The labouti would be the next most aggressive (I think).

Pygmy in first, leopard needs a mature tank with pods (ideally) so later.

That's a lot of fish for a 90. I have 4 fairy, 2 flasher, 1 leopard and 2 Halichoeres in a 72x24. Of course I have other fish (Copperband BF, pyramid BF, two clowns and a gramma).

Completely agree with the acclimation box and the link to Hunter's article. It's been my guide since I started.

 

[Dmorty217]

Great link to Hunters write up on the subject, also TJ is no slouch when it comes to anything wrasse related (eatbreakfast)

 

[Dkuhlmann]

You should look at the McCosker's wrasse, very similar to the Carpenters but much more color. I've got one and just love the colors. Here is a crappy cell phone picture

 

[Swensos]

Thank you, everyone, for the advice. This is helping a lot. Also, thanks a lot, Mike, for the link to Hunter's write-up; I had been looking for it (apparently in the wrong place) for the last few week. I read through the whole thread this morning.

Does anyone know if pygmy wrasses are hardy enough to handle potential mini-cycles as first fish after a fishless cycle?

Here's an updated list based on your suggestions and what I read in Hunter's write-up:

2-3 Pygmy Wrasses (introduced first): Leaning toward Tanaka and Pink-streak as less shy
Yellow Banded (Wetmorella nigropinnata)
White Banded (Wetmorella albofasciata)
Tanaka's Pygmy (Wetmorella tanakai)
Pink-Streaked (Pseudocheilinops ataenia)

1 Potter's Leopard Wrasse (Macropharyngodon geoffroyi) Added after close to a year of pod population growth

1 Halichoeres
Red-Lined Wrasse (Halichoeres biocellatus)

3 Flasher Wrasses
McCoscker's (Paracheilinus mccoskeri)
Line-Spot (Paracheilinus lineopunctatus)
Filamented (Paracheilinus filamentosus)


4-5 Fairy Wrasses
Labout's (Cirrhilabrus laboutei)
Orange-backed (Cirrhilabrus aurantidorsalis)
Pink Margin (Cirrhilabrus rubrimarginatus)
Pin-Tail (Cirrhilabrus cf. lanceolatus)
Tri-color (Cirrhilabrus lubbocki)

 

[joshky]

I'd avoid the Halichoeres, can be aggressive.

I had a 120, and for 10 years was told it was only big enough for 1 wrasse at a time and followed that rule. I have 2 wrasses in m 270 now, and would not hesitate to add another non-aggressive wrasse.

Wow, I am so glad that 1 wrasse per 120g isn't true, that would be brutal.





I currently have the following wrasses without any issues so far,

Halichoeres chrysus - female
Halichoeres melanurus - male
Coris venusta - female
Macropharyngodon geoffroyi - juvenile

--------

Macropharyngodon bipartitus - female (not in my DT yet, I don't foresee any aggression in the future however)

I plan on adding some fairies and flashers very soon.

An acclimation box is your best friend, get one you can put in the sand or have sand in for your sand-dwelling species that you want to keep.

 

[evolved]

You're certainly on the right track and the thinking in your 1st post is sound.

Does anyone know if pygmy wrasses are hardy enough to handle potential mini-cycles as first fish after a fishless cycle?

I wouldn't, especially with any Wetmorella - they tend to do better with a semi-decent pop population. A pink streak should fair okay though.

With what you've whittled down to, I'd skip the laboutei as well - just too much potential for trouble down the road with such a large mix. And back to the Wetmorella; I'd just pick one species - there's only subtleties between them.

 

[Swensos]

I wouldn't, especially with any Wetmorella - they tend to do better with a semi-decent pop population. A pink streak should fair okay though.

Good to know, thank you.

With what you've whittled down to, I'd skip the laboutei as well - just too much potential for trouble down the road with such a large mix. And back to the Wetmorella; I'd just pick one species - there's only subtleties between them.

That's too bad with the laboutei, they're amazing looking. Would a rhomboidalis or katoi be safer? I noticed that they are closer related to the rubrimarginatus on the species charts.

This will help me not impulse buy rare/gorgeous wrasses when they're on sale.

With the wetmorella, there's no aggression among the same species?

 

[evolved]

Would a rhomboidalis or katoi be safer? I noticed that they are closer related to the rubrimarginatus on the species charts.

Yes, with the rhomboid being more peaceful but also with a higher risk of squabbling with the rubrimarginatus (as you note).

With the wetmorella, there's no aggression among the same species?

Not that I'm aware of.

 

[Swensos]

Thanks a lot, Hunter!