WTB - R/O DI unit
- Thread starter MacnReef
- Start date
cschweitzer
New member
I have a 6 stage Water General RO/DI system RD-102. It needs new filters, but even with these filters after a couple minutes of running it still gets my water down to 0PPM.
For best results, you will want at least new carbon and sediment filters, recharge the DI resin (for all, total of about $30-40) and get a new TDS meter (I need the one I bought for this unit). It has the faucet input, so if you want inline you will need to buy an adapter(shouldn't be more than $5).
Other than that, it works like a charm and has only been used on intake water of about 140PPM, which is well under the average for water around here(my work is at over 250PPM and my friends house pushes an ERR on his TDS meter).
I'll take $50 if you want it.
For best results, you will want at least new carbon and sediment filters, recharge the DI resin (for all, total of about $30-40) and get a new TDS meter (I need the one I bought for this unit). It has the faucet input, so if you want inline you will need to buy an adapter(shouldn't be more than $5).
Other than that, it works like a charm and has only been used on intake water of about 140PPM, which is well under the average for water around here(my work is at over 250PPM and my friends house pushes an ERR on his TDS meter).
I'll take $50 if you want it.
cschweitzer
New member
You may also want to buy a tank and pressure switch if you want your system to be auto-shutoff, but that would be with any system you get. The only other way I would know of to auto-shutoff would be to get a float switch(valve) to shut the water down when topped-off.
cschweitzer
New member
There are many ways to implement an auto-shutoff. I'm a little confused as to what you mean. Do you mean an auto-topoff switch that stops the water when filled, or an pressure switch that turns it off when a tank(would need to be purchased separately) is pressurized, or a solenoid valve that works as an inline pressure switch. There are many different ideas of what is an auto-shutoff. Anyway, the unit I have does not have these, but anything is easy to implement and is pretty cheap as this unit is the RODI standard 1/4" tubing.
cschweitzer
New member
I can also throw in the in-line booster pump(good if your water pressure is below the standard usable range(60-80 PSI) for $75 or the dual in-line TDS meter for $35, but these are just extras that would need to be bought with any system as they are accessories and are not necessary for running the unit.
cschweitzer
New member
Nope, no pressure gague...The company that sells the filter replacements also sells pump, float switches(which is what I think you are looking for), pressure switches, solenoid valves, pressure gagues(these last three would mainly be for a pressurized tank fill). A float switch will stop the water flow and when attached to a tank, will auto-fill the tank when the water drops below a certain point(as determined by placement of the switch). There is already a pressure switch internal on the machine so that it is not intaking water when pressure is built up in the system. You can read about it here:
http://www.watergeneral.com/product01.aspx
It's the RD-102 setup.
It is this system with one small change that the company decided to make...they took off the last carbon filter and added another DI filter. This is an easy thing to do for about $15...regularly $190 system with none of the extras you were looking for. Put $100 more into it and you will have exactly what you want for a much reduced price. You can even call filter direct or water general and they will walk you through the process of getting what you need. Here's the setup on Filter direct's website:
http://filterdirect.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=29
If you are thinking of purchasing a new one, or even accessories from this company, go to their eBay site instead...significantly reduced price from their website:
http://stores.ebay.com/Filter-Direct-store
http://www.watergeneral.com/product01.aspx
It's the RD-102 setup.
It is this system with one small change that the company decided to make...they took off the last carbon filter and added another DI filter. This is an easy thing to do for about $15...regularly $190 system with none of the extras you were looking for. Put $100 more into it and you will have exactly what you want for a much reduced price. You can even call filter direct or water general and they will walk you through the process of getting what you need. Here's the setup on Filter direct's website:
http://filterdirect.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=29
If you are thinking of purchasing a new one, or even accessories from this company, go to their eBay site instead...significantly reduced price from their website:
http://stores.ebay.com/Filter-Direct-store
lifesworksataol
New member
whya re you getting rid of your water system?
cschweitzer
New member
I bought a RD-106 from the same company...There were some ammenities I wanted for my unit that made it easier just to buy a new one. I liked the two tap thing. It has one that runs from the DI for my reef and a tap for pure drinking water, that was the main reason. Also, I'm now setting it up under my sink instead, which can be done with the RD-100, but I like spending money. No problems with the one I've been using, even with the filters being over 1.5 yrs, after a minute or two I am still getting 0PPM output. To tell you the truth, I'm really not worried about selling it, which is why I have not created a separate post. I could always keep it as a backup if noone wanted it.
