wtb starboard

Marine surplus on Old 301 near the Sarasota/Bradenton has starboard in several thicknesses and sizes. West Marine also usually has some small pieces but it is more expensive.
 
seems i have a small leak from the move so i am going to reseal it with a starboard bottom. best of both worlds. protect the glass and a reseal. might need help on this one.
hint hint everyone
 
Remember you cant seal against Starboard. You must fix the leak on glass with silicone. Then Starboard just lays there. I second the Marine Surplus. I was just there today, and they always have a huge selection, from full 4' by 8' sheets, to smaller pieces.
 
Nothing will seal against Starboard except Starbond, and it only seals Starboard to Starboard. And its very , very expensive. Its like Superglue, but add a zero behind the price.
 
can you add silicone sealant over cured silicone. i am afraid to rip all the seams out and do more damage.
 
If you have a leak on the bottom seam, you should use a razor and slice all silicone off. I usually just slice the whole aquarium down and completly recaulk. Leave the glass glued together of course. You never really know where it orignates, like a roof leak, but worse. you may be able to find exact place it is leaking. then caulk again, making sure silicone goes into everywhere. If you are not good at it tape prior. I never use tape, but I have been doing it since silicone sealant came out. Before that with the tar stuff, and fiberglass and wood tanks. Someone posted on the Tampa site a few weeks ago, a big tank build with black silicone, and it was a real mess, very wide silicone, in black too, looked real bad. You dont want that look. if you need help, let me know, I have done this many times. Are you sure it is not a bulkhead fitting or something else? Silicone usually doesnt start leaking, unless the tank stand is wracked, or something actaully eats into it.
 
You can seal silicon over old silicon but it generally doesn't look good and you can't be sure that you will fix the leak. You would really be better off to remove the old silicon that is on the flat of the glass and leave the seams alone. Then tape and reglue the seams. It's not as bad as it sounds, the old silicon will come off fairly easy with a razor blade. Just be sure to get all of the silicon and try not to scratch the glass. That will make a much stronger and more leak resistant repair.
 
As pointed out you'' pretty much have to replace all the silicone to be sure you seal the leak.I've never had any luck taking a tank apart though. Just cutting it back to bare glass has worked for me.

I use masking tape when applying/repairing silicone. Done that way the seams are straight and professional looking.

Also, cleaning the seam area with alcohol will help remove and residue/contaminents.
 
i do not have the water high enough to go into the bulk head area yet. the stand has what appears to be a wet spot on it but i can not tell where it is coming from. it looks like it is drying up to me but not 100% sure. will definately take you up on that offer steve.
 
Remember, if it is salt water, it will never really dry up, (it will keep soaking water from the air into the wood, like pressure treated wood does)unless you can get the air real dry-impossible with tanks and stuff nearby. But see if it is drying up, or not getting any worse. If not, you probably dont have a leak. It may have been there all along, or its spilled water. Is water actually dripping?
 
no drips that i can find. i am going to put down paper towels tonight so i can see whats really going on. i just received my bulkheads today so they will be installed in a few hours . will go from there
 
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