I am wanting to trade my 90 reef tank and stand for a nice nano or similar brand.Iwould like to part out all the stuff i have livestock and pumps and skimmer and most of my live rock if i can find someone with a nice set up.Thanks Ryan
WTT or DS
- Thread starter nielsen2773
- Start date
Hey Joel I know i can but I thought it would be a little simpler and a little less maintance plus i have seen some really cool nanos on the nano forum..
leeweber85
New member
Are you really taking it down because of nitrates? That is probably one of the easiest issues to resolve in a reef tank. If you don't mind me asking, what makes you think going smaller will fix the problem?
waverz
Slave to the reef!
Also keep in mind a small tank with less water volume is less forgiving when it comes to water parameters. IMO nanos require more mainteinance than a larger tank. If you are having nitrate problems I am sure we can help you get them figured out.
Don't give up!
You can do it!!!
Don't give up!
You can do it!!!
Well thanks guys.Me and Joel have talked about,and not sure what to do Joel thought to do major water changes several days in a row or ever other day to kinda start with fresh water in the whole system.But is this really going to work?Ireally dont feed to much maybe every 2 days or so and i only have about 10 or 11 fish and a few mushrooms.Me and Joel think a small part may be old ro/di filters?I ltake any thing you can throw at me .Thanks Ryan
jtesdall
Premium Member
To recap,
Ryan has nitrates in the range of 75, I saw the test. His RO filters are over a year old and the TDS reading is well over 100 and nitrates about 50 in the RO container. Correct me on these readings if necessary Ryan.
Ryan, I think the RO could be a large part of the problem. I am assuming you are toping off during the week with this RO. So evaporation comes off leaving the nitrates behind, then you top off off with high nitrate RO water. I am assuming your tank loses about 3 gallons a day. Over a week this is over 20 gallons. If water changes aren't done over 2 weeks or more then nitrates could really accumulate. I know you do your water changes, but you are still putting nitrates back into the water only in a lower dose. Over a few months this could really make nitrates high. I am not sure why your water source has high nitrates, others may have comments here.
I recommended getting all new replacement filters except membrane. Tossing the current RO water and rinsing the container. Then do a large apx 70% water change and monitor nitrates. Then in a day or two do another 70 % water change still monitoring nitrates (watching PH and temp). Doing the math this should reduce nitrates by about 90% excluding fish waste and what is in the rocks. At this point I recommend weekly 25 - 50 % water changes depending on nitrate level backing off to 20% monthly when things look good.
I also recommended getting cheato to add to his calupera and getting his skimmer working in the best order as possible.
What say ye club? Please disagree with me if I am wrong and add where necessary.
Ryan has nitrates in the range of 75, I saw the test. His RO filters are over a year old and the TDS reading is well over 100 and nitrates about 50 in the RO container. Correct me on these readings if necessary Ryan.
Ryan, I think the RO could be a large part of the problem. I am assuming you are toping off during the week with this RO. So evaporation comes off leaving the nitrates behind, then you top off off with high nitrate RO water. I am assuming your tank loses about 3 gallons a day. Over a week this is over 20 gallons. If water changes aren't done over 2 weeks or more then nitrates could really accumulate. I know you do your water changes, but you are still putting nitrates back into the water only in a lower dose. Over a few months this could really make nitrates high. I am not sure why your water source has high nitrates, others may have comments here.
I recommended getting all new replacement filters except membrane. Tossing the current RO water and rinsing the container. Then do a large apx 70% water change and monitor nitrates. Then in a day or two do another 70 % water change still monitoring nitrates (watching PH and temp). Doing the math this should reduce nitrates by about 90% excluding fish waste and what is in the rocks. At this point I recommend weekly 25 - 50 % water changes depending on nitrate level backing off to 20% monthly when things look good.
I also recommended getting cheato to add to his calupera and getting his skimmer working in the best order as possible.
What say ye club? Please disagree with me if I am wrong and add where necessary.
leeweber85
New member
HOLY CRAP! 50ppm NO3 out of the RO!? Yeah, that would be the problem. If your TDS is that high after the RO, most likely the membrane is shot.
Do you have a 4:1 wastewater to pure RO ratio? Perhaps you have it setup incorrectly.
Also, you should shoot for 30% /month in total waterchanges.
Do you have a 4:1 wastewater to pure RO ratio? Perhaps you have it setup incorrectly.
Also, you should shoot for 30% /month in total waterchanges.
jtesdall
Premium Member
Before I dedicated myself to solving this same problem my TDS was 160 out of the RO membrane. I replaced the pre-filter, carbon and DI and now that I have added the second DI I have 0 TDS water all the time. I didn't have to replace the membrane and Ryan shouldn't yet, since he bought the unit last fall. But Lee is correct, the membrane could be shot, but with my recent experience it also might be OK. I would wait on replacing that. The important thing is to get to 0 TDS, 0 Nitrate water, if it takes a new membrane then it takes a new membrane.
ipiniowa
New member
I tried the Nano thing, and I will have to agree with waverz that more volume is less forgiving. I always was able to see when something was starting to go wrong in the 90, but not in the 12G aquapod that I had. It always gave me more time to correct the problem, and now that I am in a 210, it seems to be that much easier.
Thanks guys and Joel.I will order my new filters right now and start my journey towards 0 TDS or is that STD's just joking !!!Iwill also do What JOel has mentioned in getting rid of old Ro/Di water down sump pit and cleanind and starting over.I will let you guys know in a week or 2 how my progress is .Thanks Ryan
Ok I just went to The Filter Guys and can any one point me in the right direction?Ihave a 4 fitler system.ThanksRyan
jtesdall
Premium Member
Ryan,
To replace what you have, I think you want this on the filter packages page:
$40.00 - STANDARD PLUS DI
* 1 POLY SEDIMENT FILTER 1 OR 5 MICRON
* 1 MATRIKX CTO/2 CARBON BLOCK FILTER
* 1 MATRIKX +1 CARBON BLOCK FILTER
* 1 FILLED COLOR CHANGING DI CARTRIDGE REFILLABLE
You and I also talked about turning one of those filter canisters into a second DI. I would like some input from others. My thought is to get rid of the CTO cartridge, assuming that is what he's got. Ryan, I would send the Filter Guys an email right now asking them this also. They are very good about getting back to you, but you will probably have to wait until tomorrow to order. Give them the description and model # of what you have and ask about converting to a second DI.
In this case Ryan, I would get the following plus another DI cartridge for 2 DI's:
$35.00 - TWO FILTER PACKAGE PLUS DI
* 1 POLY SEDIMENT FILTER - 5 MICRON
* 1 MATRIKX CR1 CARBON BLOCK FILTER
* 1 FILLED COLOR CHANGING DI CARTRIDGE REFILLABLE
Also, does anyone else have any suggestions about his nitrates. Am I on track? anybody else, Bueller, Bueller?
To replace what you have, I think you want this on the filter packages page:
$40.00 - STANDARD PLUS DI
* 1 POLY SEDIMENT FILTER 1 OR 5 MICRON
* 1 MATRIKX CTO/2 CARBON BLOCK FILTER
* 1 MATRIKX +1 CARBON BLOCK FILTER
* 1 FILLED COLOR CHANGING DI CARTRIDGE REFILLABLE
You and I also talked about turning one of those filter canisters into a second DI. I would like some input from others. My thought is to get rid of the CTO cartridge, assuming that is what he's got. Ryan, I would send the Filter Guys an email right now asking them this also. They are very good about getting back to you, but you will probably have to wait until tomorrow to order. Give them the description and model # of what you have and ask about converting to a second DI.
In this case Ryan, I would get the following plus another DI cartridge for 2 DI's:
$35.00 - TWO FILTER PACKAGE PLUS DI
* 1 POLY SEDIMENT FILTER - 5 MICRON
* 1 MATRIKX CR1 CARBON BLOCK FILTER
* 1 FILLED COLOR CHANGING DI CARTRIDGE REFILLABLE
Also, does anyone else have any suggestions about his nitrates. Am I on track? anybody else, Bueller, Bueller?
hey joel what does the di part do again thanks ryan?
jtesdall
Premium Member
It takes things down to 0. Before the DI cartridge TDS will be about 20-30. DI is the polisher, its attracts minerals and trace elements and bonds them with the resin.
The advantage of having two is that the resin only lasts about 200 gallons than it is exhausted. If you aren't around to change it or are just a little lazy like me the other cartridge will keep you at 0. Then you move the last cartridge up one spot and replace the last one. That way the last in the chain is always the freshest. I really like this setup. The filter guys and many on here recommended this to me. The filter guys will help you figure it out. Each cannister on your unit should be the same size (10"), so when you replace the filters you can go in order - . 5 micron pre-filter, then into the membrane on top. Then on to the carbon and then the two DI's. Or stay with your current config and have two types of carbon in the middle. That may be better, I would ask someone more knowledgeable like the filter guys.
Anyone else have some recommendations fort Ryan? I see you on here tonight - Jeremy, Jason, Allen, Billy, Matt or more advice from Lee? Or just let him know if I am or not on the right track.
The advantage of having two is that the resin only lasts about 200 gallons than it is exhausted. If you aren't around to change it or are just a little lazy like me the other cartridge will keep you at 0. Then you move the last cartridge up one spot and replace the last one. That way the last in the chain is always the freshest. I really like this setup. The filter guys and many on here recommended this to me. The filter guys will help you figure it out. Each cannister on your unit should be the same size (10"), so when you replace the filters you can go in order - . 5 micron pre-filter, then into the membrane on top. Then on to the carbon and then the two DI's. Or stay with your current config and have two types of carbon in the middle. That may be better, I would ask someone more knowledgeable like the filter guys.
Anyone else have some recommendations fort Ryan? I see you on here tonight - Jeremy, Jason, Allen, Billy, Matt or more advice from Lee? Or just let him know if I am or not on the right track.
