WTT or DS

[jtesdall]

I recommended waiting on the membrane because it is only a year old. My TDS was about the same and changing the filters did the trick. If it doesn't work I figure then he can order the membrane. I guess he could just order it now and have it in case it is bad or keep it hand for a year from now to replace.

Do you disagrre with this approach, vikubz?

 

[Coralfreak]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10876432#post10876432 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jtesdall
I recommended waiting on the membrane because it is only a year old. My TDS was about the same and changing the filters did the trick. If it doesn't work I figure then he can order the membrane. I guess he could just order it now and have it in case it is bad or keep it hand for a year from now to replace.

Do you disagrre with this approach, vikubz?

Check the TDS coming out of the membrane, its the only real way to tell. I would highly suggest contacting the Filter Guys directly, have them help get your RO/DI back in order.

The high NO3 in this case is a rather obvious fix, which is good, get your RO/DI in order and THEN start with water changes. This can definitely be fixed.

 

[jtesdall]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10876417#post10876417 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by waverz
Yup, if you get chlorine in your membrane it will be toast.

Yes, this is correct. I was wrong, I just double checked my Kent unit. I remember the chlorine issue now, thanks guys. Ryan, your unit will be naturally setup this way with the first two cannisters before the membrane but I would double check.

 

[jtesdall]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10876459#post10876459 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Coralfreak
Check the TDS coming out of the membrane, its the only real way to tell. I would highly suggest contacting the Filter Guys directly, have them help get your RO/DI back in order.

The high NO3 in this case is a rather obvious fix, which is good, get your RO/DI in order and THEN start with water changes. This can definitely be fixed.

Alan,

I assume he should check TDS before the membrane and then after. What type of numbers should he be looking for? Or is it just if the numbers are the same before and after the membrane is shot?

 

[Coralfreak]

Looking over the whole post, my suggestion would be to replace the membrane, if the TDS coming out is that high, the carbon block is shot and the membrane is damaged.

If you want to add an extra DI, thats a good idea, but you will need to buy another canister for that, you need at least 2 stages before the membrane, a sediment filter and a carbon block. With a 4-stage unit, i would go with a 5 micron sediment, a Matrix1 Chlorine guzzler carbon block and the DI. If this is a standard DI cartridge, it should be refillable, so you could just buy the resin and refill it.

Basically replace everything and get a solid fresh start.

 

[Coralfreak]

I assume he should check TDS before the membrane and then after. What type of numbers should he be looking for? Or is it just if the numbers are the same before and after the membrane is shot?

Yes, you want to check both. I dont know what type of membrane is in there now. Assuming its a DOW Filmtec and its a 50 or 75 gpd, you should be getting a rejection rate of at least 90%. It really should be more like 95-98%, but thats dependent on water pressure and temp.

 

[jtesdall]

Allen, he actually has a five stage unit - membrane + 4 cannisters. I assume there are two carbon cannisters but I really don't know how a five stage unit is setup. I was thinking go to one carbon and add another DI like most seem to recommend.

 

[vikubz]

Filterguys also sell a nice little TDS meter for $20.

http://www.thefilterguys.biz/tds_meters.htm

I got the HM-4 for $21, really helps to have one.

I had similar issues with NO3. The water I was taking out was 60ppm, the water I was putting in was 10-15 ppm.

 

[bgreenlee]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10875271#post10875271 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jtesdall
Ryan,

To replace what you have, I think you want this on the filter packages page:

$40.00 - STANDARD PLUS DI

* 1 POLY SEDIMENT FILTER 1 OR 5 MICRON
* 1 MATRIKX CTO/2 CARBON BLOCK FILTER
* 1 MATRIKX +1 CARBON BLOCK FILTER
* 1 FILLED COLOR CHANGING DI CARTRIDGE REFILLABLE

You and I also talked about turning one of those filter canisters into a second DI. I would like some input from others. My thought is to get rid of the CTO cartridge, assuming that is what he's got. Ryan, I would send the Filter Guys an email right now asking them this also. They are very good about getting back to you, but you will probably have to wait until tomorrow to order. Give them the description and model # of what you have and ask about converting to a second DI.

In this case Ryan, I would get the following plus another DI cartridge for 2 DI's:

$35.00 - TWO FILTER PACKAGE PLUS DI

* 1 POLY SEDIMENT FILTER - 5 MICRON
* 1 MATRIKX CR1 CARBON BLOCK FILTER
* 1 FILLED COLOR CHANGING DI CARTRIDGE REFILLABLE


Also, does anyone else have any suggestions about his nitrates. Am I on track? anybody else, Bueller, Bueller?

I have always preferred two carbon blocks to be sure that way I am not getting chlorine to my RO membrane. Currently I have a little overkill with a sediment filter before my booster pump, another .5 micron sedimetn, carbon, carbon, ro, and a three stage DI. Third stage is there to protect the tank if I happen to be out of town for an extended period so my wife doesnt have to mess with filters. I run 650 tds in to the first filter and run 18 tds out of the membrane, down to 0 tds after the first two DI cartridges.

 

[Atticus]

Another huge thing to investigate is your water company's use of chloramines. Chloramines will cause the problem you are refering to as carbon busts the chlorine off of the attatched ammonia molecule leaving the ammonia free to pass through the membrane. This will typically fry a DI cartridge in under 100 gallons of use thus pushing ammonia and the resultant nitrates into your RO container.

 

[Atticus]

Here is the link to the Chloramine page... http://www.thefilterguys.biz/chloramine_filters.htm

You are going to find high chloramine levels in areas with older water treatment plants that have long runs in their water mains as the addition of ammonia keeps the chlorine more stable and able to disinfect to a longer range.

 

[nielsen2773]

Thank You all for all your help.I talked to Jim at the filter guys to day and he checked my local water treatment plant no chlorimine just chlorine and he help me with filter selection .So i placed an order and they should be coming >I ll let you know how much my nitrates have fallen once i do 3 50% water changes.Thanks Ryan

 

[Nanemene]

Good call on replacing all the RO/DI media. I've heard from many sources that once those media--or any part of them--reach the end of their useful potential, the entire filter is compromised and you're practically using tap water. Replacing all is the best way to go.

Also, as stated above, my understanding is that chaeto is a great natural solution to nitrate issues. Not exactly the answer to all prayers, but just another layer of biological filtration that a healthy reef can benefit from.

 

[nielsen2773]

Hey Nameme good looking fish is that the one you got at iowa pet food ?Did you buy those t5's on the sale forum?

 

[Nanemene]

That's not my exact specimen but it looks exactly like him! He's "in charge" of my tank at this point, and basically gets dibs on all food. I didn't buy the T-5's. The PC's are serving me well for now. Thanks again for the hook up.