Your experiences with cupramine
- Thread starter Tschupe
- Start date
Beefy_Reefy
New member
Use a syringe with ml instead of drops. And slowly add over 5-7 days. I tried the directions and it was hard on fish. Since then I've split dosing over 5 days ramping it up to about .4 and it went very smooth. Oh and I only use seachem copper test kit. Others use salifert but I've had more accurate results with seachem (who actually makes cupramine). Buy a seachem alert badge for ammonia detection since cupramine supposedly throws off ammonia test kits. And last when you do a water change, add the copper to the fresh saltwater before adding it to qt. that way your copper level won't drop.
I like cupramine now that I'm dosing it slower. Better results for me.
I like cupramine now that I'm dosing it slower. Better results for me.
briankmarsh1980
I'm a member of **!!!!!!
Works great just do not use prime with it.
Beefy_Reefy
New member
Heater, small powerhead, pvc for fish to hide in, some kind of filter like aquaclear hang on the back. You could add biospira bacteria(this has worked well for me) to the newly setup HT to help. If not just keep up on water changes, watch that ammonia.
bugs713
In-A-Gadda-Divita!
I did 25% water change every 2 - 3 days to keep ammonia down to safe level while treating ich with Cupramine or Copersafe. I also used one of those ammonia detection badges that stick on the inside. NH3 can rise very quickly and you have to watch it closely also using test kits to monitor daily. When you do water changes, you need to replace the Cu that was removed.
Using water from an "established tank" wil not do much as the good stuff is not in the water, but rather the rock and sand. It may be a good start, but watch you SA, especially with water changes.
Also, if treating with Cu, you MUST have a Cu copper test kit AND get the correct kind of test kit for the Cu you are using. If using a filter, remove any carbon while treating with Cu as it will interfere with the Cu levels.
Finally, IMO/IME, the only way to treat ich is hypo Sa or copper, all else is snake oil and a waste of money , time and fish!
There is a ton of info here on how to treat properly using Cu or Hypo, do some searching in the disease section and read, read, read.
I got it my first 6 months into the hobby, got everyone in a 30g HT and used Coppersafe; 3 of the 8 fish died, two of which were scaleless type that do not tolorate Cu well, the others are still alive today. Doing this is a big PITA, but its worth it to save your loved fishies!
If it is indeed ich, move quickly and don't be fooled if it goes away for a few days as it can come back with a vengeance!
Good luck!
Using water from an "established tank" wil not do much as the good stuff is not in the water, but rather the rock and sand. It may be a good start, but watch you SA, especially with water changes.
Also, if treating with Cu, you MUST have a Cu copper test kit AND get the correct kind of test kit for the Cu you are using. If using a filter, remove any carbon while treating with Cu as it will interfere with the Cu levels.
Finally, IMO/IME, the only way to treat ich is hypo Sa or copper, all else is snake oil and a waste of money , time and fish!
There is a ton of info here on how to treat properly using Cu or Hypo, do some searching in the disease section and read, read, read.
I got it my first 6 months into the hobby, got everyone in a 30g HT and used Coppersafe; 3 of the 8 fish died, two of which were scaleless type that do not tolorate Cu well, the others are still alive today. Doing this is a big PITA, but its worth it to save your loved fishies!
If it is indeed ich, move quickly and don't be fooled if it goes away for a few days as it can come back with a vengeance!
Good luck!
Last edited:
Weyrman
New member
Tank transfer method has worked well for me. No messing with copper and test kits. Just making water. Use two 5 gallon buckets and an air stone. Water quality remains good because you are doing 100% water changes every three days. Used syphon water from the DT and replace DT water with new salt water. That way your bucket water will be consistant.
There is a whole thread on this here on RC.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1996525
But if you want to borrow a ten gallon tank I have one just returned from someone else who treated a fish with copper. Has a hob filter and screen top. You'd need a heater and something for the fish to hide in.
I have an extra heater too but I haven't checked it out. I have fresh filter media for the HOB.
There is a whole thread on this here on RC.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1996525
But if you want to borrow a ten gallon tank I have one just returned from someone else who treated a fish with copper. Has a hob filter and screen top. You'd need a heater and something for the fish to hide in.
I have an extra heater too but I haven't checked it out. I have fresh filter media for the HOB.
Tschupe
New member
Thanks Roy! Sending PM
zrogst
New member
Tank transfer is a great method and the easiest on the fish so I'd do that if you can.
Otherwise, any tank + heater + hiding place will do with cupramine. I prefer the sponge filters they make for freshwater tanks for holding the biofilter. They are only like 10 bucks each so I try to keep a few around all the time. Work awesome and you can toss them after you're done with the hospital tank.
Whatever you do - like bugs said, move quick.
EDIT: These sponge-filters or ones exactly like them.
Otherwise, any tank + heater + hiding place will do with cupramine. I prefer the sponge filters they make for freshwater tanks for holding the biofilter. They are only like 10 bucks each so I try to keep a few around all the time. Work awesome and you can toss them after you're done with the hospital tank.
Whatever you do - like bugs said, move quick.
EDIT: These sponge-filters or ones exactly like them.
