Zoa Dip Clarification Questions

Perhaps obvious....but....

Can someone tell me how to adjust the pH of the RO water used for the dip?

MUCHO - Are you currently recommending 6 drops per gallon of RO?

Many thanks!
Jeff
 
The sole purpose for a dip is to remove predators as well as unwanted entries into your tank while causing the least amount of undue stress to your zoanthids. Contrary to popular belief, dipping is stressful, allbeit lease stressful to zoanthids because they are very hardy and tolerant and adapting very well and easily to all types of lighting. I'm not taking shots here by saying this, but I would never risk dipping my zoanthids without first adjusting the PH. Can they tolerate the dip without it, sure, the above reefers can vouche that this is indeed true. I prefer to take the safest mode of treatment to insure that I am exerting the least amount of stress as possible. This is achieved by playing it safe and setting the PH and temp. to that of your tank.

I dipped several new arrivals last week and each of them opened within 15 minutes of placing them in my tank. I have seldom if ever had a delay in expansion. I have heard many stories of zoanthids not opening after a dip. Some of the reason were attributed to not setting the proper PH and temp. Often the dip was perfromed improperly. Some have peformed dips and moved their Zoathids 3 and 4 times in one day after the dip. This is a recipe for possible fatalities. Anthony Calfo even speaks of it in one of his books I read. Yes, they are hardy, but I would never push the envelope on any of my corals.

Yes, I use 5 or 6 drops per gallon and I have never had any issues.

When new aquisitions are aquired, often we assume the conditions they came from were spartan. Trust me, that isn't true. Try testing the water in the bag from your LFS. Often the parameters are way off. I DIDN'T SAY ALL LFS, but I have had this experience. So you remove the colony from the bag with a PH and many other parameters that are off, and you place it in a dip where the temp surely isn't the same as the bag and the parameters won't be the same either. After a 5 to 10 minute dip, you now place them in your tank which has a whole new set of parameters. Do you get the picture. Many factors can and will cause a delay. Taking a colony that was recently shipped with one or two days of complete darkness, bumped and banged around in transit, unpacked, dipped and then place in a tank and turning on 250 watts of MH is a major mistake. As I said, there are a host of reasons for delayed expansion.

This is why I would love to see more discussions on the ins and outs, do's and don't as it relates to Zoanthids. So much knowledge is shared and attained that way.

OK, running my mouth too much again.

Mooch
 
I read recently that the pH of RO is often relatively acidic (around 6.0). This seems quite different from what MUCHOREEF has suggested.

I'd really like to follow the protocol for all the reasoned mentioned above.

But, I'm still not sure how to adjust the pH.

MUCHOREEF?

Anyone else?
 
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Made a mistake, I should have said, "The sole purpose for a dip is to remove predators ( AND PARASITES )as well as unwanted entries into your tank while causing the least amount of undue stress to your zoanthids.

I use my Part 1 of my 2 part Bionic solution to set my PH. There are many commercial products on the market to do this as well.

Mucho
 
I'm sure adjusting ph and temp will cause less stress on the zoas. IME I never have adjusted ph and the water I use is straight out of the ro container and is usually a LOT colder than the water in the tank. I am not advocating doing this, but I have been for a long time and have never had a problem with zoas not opening right away.

I always just figured the cold water would zap the baddies quicker. :lol: Never even though about adjusting the PH for a dip to tell you the truth.
 
I use a pinch of Kent Super Buffer or else baking soda for adjusting pH.

Last month I helped a friend dip a ton of zoas for nudis. He had done some already with cold non pH adjusted RO with Lugols. Those stayed closed for a few days and didn't look too good. The ones I did with temp and pH adjusted water opened up a lot sooner.
 
If I'm not dipping for nudis, but just for cleaning things up after all the shipping stress, I use the ReefFarmers method of sw/iodine dipping. Seems less stressful to the zoas, and I figure the higher iodine concentration would be better for killing bacteria.

I recieved some damp packed zoas that were shipped in a thermos by UPS ground. They were cold when they arrived, and there was a lot of paper towel around the damp zoas. Maybe even too much because there was a lot of stagnant bad smelling liquid in the towels.

The surface of the zoas had slimy material and they didnt look very good at all. I did the ReefFarmers dip and turkey basted away all the loose gunk. The zoas recovered and opened up by the next day.
 
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