Zoo Dip

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7953039#post7953039 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ereefic
Here is a pic of some Nudi eggs. I haven't really seen any pics around, so figure these may help.

IMG_4020Medium.jpg
Click to expand...

This is a fantastic reference photo. Thank you!
This whole thread has been very helpful!
 
I don't have Lugols available to me at the moment and I just bought a bunch of zoos.

Lugols is POTASSIUM IODIDE... So is this Seachem product. I don't see how one POTASSIUM IODIDE is > than another. :p


The Seachem product has a "Guaranteed Alalysis per 1g of Iodide to be 8mg".

All I need to know is how many mg of Iodide per gallon to make the dip. Anyone?
 
Last edited:
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8076706#post8076706 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rsteagall
Lugols is POTASSIUM IODIDE... So is this Seachem product. I don't see how one POTASSIUM IODIDE is > than another. :p
Click to expand...

Lugol's is a Potassium Iodide SOLUTION. The Seachem product may be a much different SOLUTION than standard Lugol's. It's meant for adding TRACE amounts of Iodide to your water, for specimens to use for molting, etc. Lugol's is meant for treating disease, the Seachem stuff is NOT.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lugol's_iodine_solution

http://www.seachem.com/products/product_pages/ReefIodide.html
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7560309#post7560309 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by surfnvb7
yeah....i know all of this. the prob with baking soda, is once you reach a pH of 8.2, your hardness is off the scale.

i will never use pH paper, it is the most unreliable pH testing method out there. (this is coming from someone who works in a biochemistry lab)

maybe my question is better suited in the chemistry forum, as all i'm looking for is the raw chemical name of a buffering salt, and its amount to raise the pH of 1g of water to 8.2.

i refuse to go out and buy any commerical additives for inc/dec pH, alkalinity etc. waaaaay over priced when you can just buy the raw chemical form for pennies.
Click to expand...


I see this question come up a lot. I always think to myself, " why don't they just buy a pH buffer?" and then I got to the last paragraph here. My question is, are they over-priced for how long it will last? I use Seachem's 8.3 pH buffer *(keep in mind 8.3 pH will be a lot different color on a pH test when testing fresh water)* and it sets my water to 8.3 every time. I use it on every newly mixed batch of water and top off water as a rule for insurance. One small pinch of the stuff in a gallon of water will set your pH to 8.3. Needless to say, a small bottle of this will last me for years.
I'd never risk stressing zoos out more by not at least adjusting the pH first. Maybe you 'can' do it but why? My pH buffer is my insurance.

Great thread here btw. I have used this method before and worked great for me. It killed a reef spider on one colony that came in. Had never seen one before. It was white and maybe 3 mm long. I used a heavy dose of the regular kent Iodine but after reading this, it definately does not sound as effective.

I've got some x-men zoos coming in a couple days so I may start looking for some Lugols now.
 
Is there a difference between Lugols Iodine and others? I have Salifert Iodine already at home .. Could I substitute this drop for drop or is Lugols something totally different.


Edit: I think I got my answer from the above post..
 
What happens if your rock has a few mushrooms,button polyps and zoas on it?

Can you still do the 5 min. Lugols Iodine dip?
 
It's mainly for the rock that the mushrooms are attached to.

Sometimes the mushrooms are on a softball size rock and buying from a LPS, where I 've seen so many nubi eggs and critters coming out of other Zoas rocks I've puchased from them, when I did a FW dip. They were all in the same tank also. Also there are times where a variaty of different corals on the same rock, such as Zoas,button polyps, and mushrooms bunched on the same rock.

I'm just concern about my tank being infested and getting wiped out. I've read some horror stories on RC, and just trying my best to not let it happen to my tank.

Or is it just not worth being too concern about it and just enjoy the ADDICTION.
 
DVU, Great Job, better to be cautious than to be sorry.

How long you dip in FW?
Do you also dip in Lugols Iodine as well, or just FW?
 
Should i dip my zoas im getting tomorrow in TMPCC--tropic marine pro coral cure...i use it for SPS for flat worms and red bugs and the rest of em..

im getting some nice pink zoas and thought about dipping them just to prevent Acropora predatros coming on the rock by chance...

i didnt even know zoas had nudis that ate em. similar to montipora nudis???

so should i dip with TMPCC???
 
I dipped my zoos last week in the bath that was reccomended on page one. I dipped a total of 6 rocks because I noticed that 1 rock of zoos seemed to be receding. After the dip 4 have opened up somewhat and 2 have still yet to open up.. Any ideas why??
 
I only have one Zoa, but for the last week it seemed to de declining in health with some of the polyps appearing to have a fungus (Black and White).
IToday, performed the recommended ZOO DIP with LUGOLS as posted on here....I first cut away the worst of the infected polyps,,,and then after the dip placed back in my main tank with high current and only turned on the acthnic lights. About half of the colony has reopened, but now im thinking that i should have cut away more of the polyps that are sickly looking. ANY ideas how long i should wait beforing doing a bit more surgery and attempting another dip?
 
IMO, the longer you wait to do the surgery, the more the fungus will spread. You can do surgery without the stress of the dip.
 
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