0.00 Phosphates

[aravindk]

Hello,

I use Hanna Phosphate checker and I always get 0.00 phosphates for last few weeks. I test weekly. Last week it was 0.01 and this week it is 0.00 again. There is plenty of algae in my tank so it is kinda hard to believe the reading I get. I also run GFO & have a fuge with macro algae in it.

Can the checker be faulty?

-arvind.

 

[ezerasurfr]

what kind of algae do you have in the DT?
What are your other parameters?
When was the last time you changed your GFO (and what kind are you using)?

 

[aravindk]

i use BRS GFO (the more expensive one). I changed it like three weeks ago. The algae is the green one on glass and brown one on sand. Other parameters are spot on - calc - 420, alkalinity 7.6.

 

[EddieJ]

Hello,

I use Hanna Phosphate checker and I always get 0.00 phosphates for last few weeks. I test weekly. Last week it was 0.01 and this week it is 0.00 again. There is plenty of algae in my tank so it is kinda hard to believe the reading I get. I also run GFO & have a fuge with macro algae in it.

Can the checker be faulty?

-arvind.

If you have plenty of algae in your tank, your Phosphate reading will always most likely be low. The algae consumes the phosphate in most cases before it enters the water column. Such as if it is leaching from the sandbed or rocks. Also, which Hanna are you using? is it the HI-736? if so, check your lot# on your reagent. If it's H006 that could add to your problem there as a bunch of reagent from that lot reads low to 0. But like I said, once you have algae or cyano in your tank, that is consuming the PO4 from the source and water column.
In other words, checking for phosphate is beneficial before you have cyano/algae in your tank. Once it's there, you will not get a reading that means much. When you have excessive algae or cyano, you have plenty of available nutrients for it to consume.

 

[t4zalews]

Is the tank new? You will always have green algae that grows on the glass, as for the brown on the sand, sounds like some diatom algae. These will pass

 

[aravindk]

If you have plenty of algae in your tank, your Phosphate reading will always most likely be low. The algae consumes the phosphate in most cases before it enters the water column. Such as if it is leaching from the sandbed or rocks. Also, which Hanna are you using? is it the HI-736? if so, check your lot# on your reagent. If it's H006 that could add to your problem there as a bunch of reagent from that lot reads low to 0. But like I said, once you have algae or cyano in your tank, that is consuming the PO4 from the source and water column.
In other words, checking for phosphate is beneficial before you have cyano/algae in your tank. Once it's there, you will not get a reading that means much. When you have excessive algae or cyano, you have plenty of available nutrients for it to consume.

i am using the hanna photometer H-713. Not the checker as I erroneously mentioned before.

If I understand you correctly, this means that there is no point in checking for Phosphates when I have too much algae. I first have to looking into correcting the algae problem. Once it gets lot less visible, then the test meters start to register them much more accurately. Is my understanding correct?

 

[aravindk]

Is the tank new? You will always have green algae that grows on the glass, as for the brown on the sand, sounds like some diatom algae. These will pass

Not a new tank. Over two years old.

 

[Uncle Salty 05]

I would ditch the GFO and set up an intensely lit refugium.
GFO is iron - algae food.
I tried it and did not like the results. Julian Sprung agrees.

 

[aravindk]

I would ditch the GFO and set up an intensely lit refugium.
GFO is iron - algae food.
I tried it and did not like the results. Julian Sprung agrees.

Hmm. first time hearing this.

 

[Uncle Salty 05]

I'm pretty surte this is the book I read it in.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Reef-Notes-4-Julian-Sprung-1997-Paperback-New-/390188211541

 

[aravindk]

i will take the GFO offline and see if it improves. Just as an fyi, I get this brown thick layer on the sand once every few weeks. When it gets really worse, I do the 72 hrs lights off regimen after which the sand looks all new again. Few weeks later it forms again.

 

[jwoyshnar]

It forms again because you arent getting rid of the problem. Your phosphates are low because the algae is consuming all of it to thrive. You have to have something else consuming it. Check into algae scrubbers or brightly lit refugium with an algae that grows fast.

 

[aravindk]

I have caulerpa in the refugium and I light it with something like this one:

http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical...splay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051

is this bright enough?

 

[Uncle Salty 05]

Sounds like diatoms.
You need a silicate filter on your RO unit.

http://buckeyefieldsupply.com/showproducts.asp?Category=182&Sub=127

 

[Uncle Salty 05]

I have caulerpa in the refugium and I light it with something like this one:

http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical...splay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051

is this bright enough?

Why spend nearly 40 bucks for 950 lumens of 3000K light when you can get 1600 lumens of 6500K light for 10 bucks?

 

[aravindk]

Why spend nearly 40 bucks for 950 lumens of 3000K light when you can get 1600 lumens of 6500K light for 10 bucks?

can you share the link if you have one?

 

[Uncle Salty 05]

http://www.lampsplus.com/Products/2...-CFL-Twist-ENERGY-STAR-Light-Bulb__35256.html

 

[aravindk]

cool, thank you. i found another one:

http://www.amazon.com/89095-26-Watt-Daylight-Compact-Fluorescent/dp/B002YEXMUK

 

[Uncle Salty 05]

You're welcome.
I don't see a color temperature on that bulb.
You want 6500K - anything 5000 and up is considered daylight.

 

[aravindk]

it is in the description:

Wattage: 26 Voltage 120 Initial Lumens 1600 Color Temperature 6500 K, Rated Life: 8000 hours,