1 way check valve.

dublo8

New member
Where did everybody go to get their check valves? I went to HD today to pick one up and I didn't like how much pressure it took to get the valve to open up. It was spring (pressure) activated.It seems like it would be limiting my return by a ton. So I guess what I'm looking for is a "swing" type check valve? I am wanting the check valve to stop any back siphon on the return line if power were to fail. Please lead me in the right direction. thanks.
 
personaly Id avoid check valves in a reef setup - the inside of the pipes and valves will get a build up all kings of growth on them and over time th echeck valve will fail- not a meter of if rater a mater of time

design you system with an anti syphon and allow enough space in your sump to handle a power off situation - m2c
 
Thanks. I have read that several places. I ran a power outage test and pulled the plug from the return pump to see what would happen. sure enough, syphon filled up my sump and overflowed. I built a resevoir in my stand that is sealed with silicon, it can hold a little over 10 gallons, so it wasn't a major disaster, well nothing a shop vac couldn't handle anyways.

I moved the return line output up higher on the waterline to reduce the amount of water that could syphon back into the sump. The sump can only hold another 3-4 gallons of water before overflow. The check valve just seemed like a better option.

BTW I have wood floores...So any disaster avoided is money saved.

How do I create an anti-syphon?
 
Drill a hole in the return just below the water line when the pump is on. This way, when the pump shuts down the hole will fairly quickly let enough air into the line to break the siphion.

As the first reply said, you really cannot rely on a check valve in saltwater. If you really can't get around it, use a flap style that has unions on both ends so it's easy to remove and get a spare so you can easily swap them out for CONSTANT cleaning. I'm definately not reccomending any check valve though......
 
Drill a hole in the return just below the water line when the pump is on. This way, when the pump shuts down the hole will fairly quickly let enough air into the line to break the siphion.

As the first reply said, you really cannot rely on a check valve in saltwater. If you really can't get around it, use a flap style that has unions on both ends so it's easy to remove and get a spare so you can easily swap them out for CONSTANT cleaning. I'm definately not reccomending any check valve though......

good call, I didn't think about drilling a hole in the return. Thanks for the response.
 
A hole in the return line, works about as long as it takes to plug up the same way a check valve does. The only failsafe there is will be extra volume in the sump to contain all power out drain down. A sump should only run ~ half full. If running half full, and you still need more volume, then your sump is too small.

Jim
 
the hole works great. Im running 1/2" pvc return with a 1/8" hole and it does its job.

The hole works great and does its job until it gets plugged and does not work great and fails to do its job...

It only takes a little bit of salt creep, a snail or glob of algae to plug that hole. Check valves and siphon break holes will fail you when you count on them the most...
 
use a flap style that has unions on both ends so it's easy to remove and get a spare so you can easily swap them out for CONSTANT cleaning. I'm definately not reccomending any check valve though......
+1, Just broke down two 6 yr. old tanks that each had two Home Depot flap style valves...all 4 are still in perfect working order...never failed , and were never cleaned in the 6 years of use. That being said, they were 'redundant' as I had plenty of room in a 150g sump, AND a sump overflow, directly into floor drains! (I hate to 'wet-vac' water!)
 
Albano,

While there are exceptions to the norm, most check valves used in reef systems fail due to fouling. They are a liability and in your application did nothing but rob flow. In large systems with high volume backflow, they can be used to prevent pump impellers from spinning the wrong way (and possibly becoming unthreaded from their shafts).

An aquarium should never rely on a check valve to prevent flooding during power loss.
 
Bean...

You're 100% RIGHT (as usual)...Sorry I wasn't more clear, I had +1'd his statement, to that fact!

If you really can't get around it, use a flap style that has unions on both ends so it's easy to remove and get a spare so you can easily swap them out for CONSTANT cleaning. I'm definately not reccomending any check valve though......
albano said:
 
Sorry... was not being argumentative but was instead just elaborating on the comments so that those following along could gain a bit more information within the context of the conversation.

Your comments were clear, it was my response that had an ambiguous tone and should have been worded better to convery conversation, not correction.
 
Bean..."you had me at hello" :love1:...Please, no need to apologize, I didn't think you were arguing, thought you just missed the quote...with 18000 posts, it could happen!
 
I have the 1/8" holes drilled in the pipes from the pump and never have a problem.
just clean the holes when you service the tank for trouble free operation
 
Yes, if you are going to rely on siphon break holes, then you need more than 1 and they need to be positioned so that a single snail or piece of debris can not plug them at the same time. Regular (very regular) cleaning is also a MUST.
 
Yes, if you are going to rely on siphon break holes, then you need more than 1 and they need to be positioned so that a single snail or piece of debris can not plug them at the same time. Regular (very regular) cleaning is also a MUST.

Im not worried...I have your overflow and my sump is 1/2 full :D
 
Ok, yes check valves are not the option. They're not trustworthy and will drastically increase head pressure on your pump.
The best solution is the anti-siphon hole. My return pipes are made from all-glass. It's a very simple design. Right at the sharpest bend of the 90 degree angle at the top of the pipe, there is a small 1/8" hole under the water. Once I shut my return pump off, the water falls and then reaches below this hole to grab air. Siphon is now broken... HOWEVER, this can easily just clog up with salt creep, a chunk of debris, anything, that your return pump might blast back up to it... This is a very simple thing to check. take a big fat needle in your hand, stick your hand in the water where you know the hole is, and put the needle in and wiggle it around... Now you know you're good... You just have to remember to do this every so many months or weeks. Takes 2 seconds to maintain... I had mine clog once. No biggie. I noticed it when I was doing a water change instead of during a power failure before the sump got too high.
 
Ok, yes check valves are not the option. They're not trustworthy and will drastically increase head pressure on your pump.
The best solution is the anti-siphon hole....

...I had mine clog once. No biggie. I noticed it when I was doing a water change instead of during a power failure before the sump got too high.

The point is that check valves and siphon breaks should be avoided when at all possible. It was pure luck that yours failed with you standing there, if it were during a power outage, you would have had a flood.

Again, you need more than a single hole and they need to be cleaned daily.
 
I went with a very nice check valve and found soon that it got caked with where my lime water enters. I ended up going with a different solution after I saw uncleof6's responses in another thread before I had a disaster. I now have the return higher and have plenty of room should the power go out. Better safe than sorry but the check valve is definitely a bad idea. You will also not likely find one locally as most of the time they will be metal.
 
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