.:.:.10 channel Storm X DIY LED build.:.:.
- Thread starter foo_dog
- Start date
TriNewbie24
Member
It's great! I have a StormX running the following:
Channel 1 (1000mA max) - CREE XP-G2 Cool White LED(8) CREE XP-G Neutral White (2)
Channel 2 (1000mA max) - CREE XP-E Blue 3W LED (8)
Channel 3 (1000mA max) - CREE XT-E Royal Blue LED (10)
Channel 4 (1000mA max) - CREE XP-G R5 Cool White 7ups (2) *For Refugium
Channel 5 (700mA max) - Philips Rebel ES 660nm (4)CREE XP-E Green 3W LED (4)
Channel 6 (700mA max) - Total Spectrum Violet UV LED (2) Violet UV (2)
Channel 7 (500mA max) - CREE XP-E Amber LED (2)
It's a great controller, still building my 240 so I dont have it over a tank, just assembled and tested. I think your going to love it.
Channel 1 (1000mA max) - CREE XP-G2 Cool White LED(8) CREE XP-G Neutral White (2)
Channel 2 (1000mA max) - CREE XP-E Blue 3W LED (8)
Channel 3 (1000mA max) - CREE XT-E Royal Blue LED (10)
Channel 4 (1000mA max) - CREE XP-G R5 Cool White 7ups (2) *For Refugium
Channel 5 (700mA max) - Philips Rebel ES 660nm (4)CREE XP-E Green 3W LED (4)
Channel 6 (700mA max) - Total Spectrum Violet UV LED (2) Violet UV (2)
Channel 7 (500mA max) - CREE XP-E Amber LED (2)
It's a great controller, still building my 240 so I dont have it over a tank, just assembled and tested. I think your going to love it.
I did something similar a while back, about to begin re-working it though to make improvements to color and coral response.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2333949
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2333949
Thanks.
Quick update...I got my wire to run from the board to the power supply...
I decided to go outside the box and instead of going with just plastic wrapped wires or hiding them in the lighting rig, I went outside the box and embraced the wire a bit by getting fabric wrapped twisted wire that not only has a vintage flair, but also comes in tons of colors. I opted for sky blue, since I will have splashes of it in my otherwise gloss and matte black stand.
I decided to go outside the box and instead of going with just plastic wrapped wires or hiding them in the lighting rig, I went outside the box and embraced the wire a bit by getting fabric wrapped twisted wire that not only has a vintage flair, but also comes in tons of colors. I opted for sky blue, since I will have splashes of it in my otherwise gloss and matte black stand.
I hope I do like it...it shall be interesting.
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
So you're going to be powering the LDD using 12v power supplies? That only gives you 9v on the output side, which is around 3x LEDs (2x for ones with voltage higher than ~2.9) per LDD.
I went by what both corlux & led supply suggested I go with based on my LEDs and from everything ive read, amps are the most important thing to pay attention to and then watts....which these supplies are more than enough.
Your question and response could be a little more descriptive as im not fulky understanding what you're getting at?
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
Voltage determines how many LEDs you can run in series. With 12v input, the LDD drivers have ~9v output. A typical LED uses 2.9-3.4v at 700mA, 3.1-3.6v at 1A. that means you can only run 2-3 LEDs per LDD driver absolute maximum, leave it at two to be on the safe side. You can run up to ~80 watts of LEDs from each 100w power supply.
Im not sure where you're info...but the drivers can run 1-16 3w led at full power...
Again, this has been discussed at length with both coralux and ledsupppy and both say I have more than enough power.
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
I think you need to do a little more research. If Coralux or LEDsupply told you that a 12v power supply will power up to 16x LEDs, then they are being foolish and hoping to sell you products twice.
Here is the datasheet for the LDD-H series: http://www.meanwell.com/search/LDD-H/LDD-H-spec.pdf
Pay close attention to the set of graphs labelled 'Efficiency vs Output Voltage (Number of LEDs)'. The first graph is 12v input, like your situation. If the LEDs use exactly 3v each, then you can run up to three. Now look at the last graph, given 48v input and 3v each LED, you can run up to 14 LEDs, as the output of the LDD is 45v. If you were to use a 56v power supply, the output of the LDD would be down to 52v (so a 4v drop instead of 3v like at 48v and below), and if given exactly 3v per LED, you could run up to 18x off of a single LDD driver.
You have 12v input. The LDD will give 9v output. Each LED you have ranges from ~2.2v at 700mA in the case of the Rebel amber to ~3.6v at 1A of the XP-E blue. You need to look at the datasheets of all of the LEDs you have, figure out the total voltage used at the currents you wish to run them at, figure out how many you want to run per string in series, add 3-4v to that number, and you will have the minimum output voltage that your power supply needs to give.
The LDD scale their voltage down to meet the needs of the LEDs you are running, so if you have a 48v power supply and only want to run 16v of LEDs, then the LDD will still use its 3v and will output only 16v, pulling less amperage from the power supply (so a 1A LDD will only pull ~40% of the current since it is using 40% of the voltage). The LDD cannot do this in reverse, eg pull more amperage and output more voltage.
Ill go back to them and see...thanks
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
In addition, I would consider replacing some of the LEDs you're using with either more modern versions (no sense in purchasing old tech at basically the same price) and eliminating duplicates.
6x 1up - Royal-Blue Cree XPE - Driver 1
Replace with XT-E or Rebel ES royal blue
6x 1up - Blue Cree XPE - Driver 2
Replace with the XP-E2 blue
2x 1up - Warm-White Cree XTE - Driver 3
4x 1up - Cool-White Cree XTE - Driver 4
2x 1up - Neu-White Luxeon Rebel - Driver 5
Never saw the reason for this - I would use all high-CRI neutral white Rebel ES or half warm and half cool white XT-E (another option is using only cool white and adding in PC amber to make up for the poor CRI, or using all high-CRI NW and adding lime to better adjust CCT)
1x 1up - Cyan Luxeon Rebel - Driver 6
1x 1up - Turquoise LED - Driver 6
The 'turquoise' LED covers the same spectra as the cyan Rebel
1x 1up - Cool Blue Exotic - Driver 6
The 'exotic' cool blue cover the same spectra as the XP-E/XP-E2 blue
4x 1up - Hyper Violet Exotic - Driver 7
4x 1up - True Violet Exotic - Driver 7
1x 1up - Yellow Osram SSL - Driver 8
1x 1up - Amber Luxon rebel - Driver 8
Yellow and amber are one and the same - I would suggest to replace with the PC-amber Rebel which is a wide-spectrum amber that will blend better, so less disco.
2x 1up - Green Cree XPE - Driver 9
Replace with lime Rebel ES, wide-spectrum and again better blending
4x 1up - True UV - Driver 10
4x 1up - Indigo - Driver 10
I don't know the manufacture of these LEDs, but compare their spectra and output to the two violet LEDs listed above, they're probably the exact same.
Going back over the thread you have already purchased the LEDs, bummer. lol
6x 1up - Royal-Blue Cree XPE - Driver 1
Replace with XT-E or Rebel ES royal blue
6x 1up - Blue Cree XPE - Driver 2
Replace with the XP-E2 blue
2x 1up - Warm-White Cree XTE - Driver 3
4x 1up - Cool-White Cree XTE - Driver 4
2x 1up - Neu-White Luxeon Rebel - Driver 5
Never saw the reason for this - I would use all high-CRI neutral white Rebel ES or half warm and half cool white XT-E (another option is using only cool white and adding in PC amber to make up for the poor CRI, or using all high-CRI NW and adding lime to better adjust CCT)
1x 1up - Cyan Luxeon Rebel - Driver 6
1x 1up - Turquoise LED - Driver 6
The 'turquoise' LED covers the same spectra as the cyan Rebel
1x 1up - Cool Blue Exotic - Driver 6
The 'exotic' cool blue cover the same spectra as the XP-E/XP-E2 blue
4x 1up - Hyper Violet Exotic - Driver 7
4x 1up - True Violet Exotic - Driver 7
1x 1up - Yellow Osram SSL - Driver 8
1x 1up - Amber Luxon rebel - Driver 8
Yellow and amber are one and the same - I would suggest to replace with the PC-amber Rebel which is a wide-spectrum amber that will blend better, so less disco.
2x 1up - Green Cree XPE - Driver 9
Replace with lime Rebel ES, wide-spectrum and again better blending
4x 1up - True UV - Driver 10
4x 1up - Indigo - Driver 10
I don't know the manufacture of these LEDs, but compare their spectra and output to the two violet LEDs listed above, they're probably the exact same.
Going back over the thread you have already purchased the LEDs, bummer. lol
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Well...you were correct...my drivers are fine, but need different power supplies, so I have to go back and see what I need to go with...so thank you for the catch!
My goal with this set up, was to not just get general spectrums, but see what nuances of different areas in the spectrum will yeild. Thus, the choices I have made. Some are very similar, but do peak in different areas and that is what I am after.
Its going to mostly be an NPS tank so the newesr and greatest doesnt matter match....to me.
I am actually on the hunt for the lime green to mix in with my green. However, I cant find anyone who has put it on a star yet.
I will probably end up going with an led groupbuy meanwell driver that is 250w 48v & 5.2a. They say it can power a bank of 5 1000ldd drivers at full power...so that should be more than plenty, if I run one for each 5 up board.
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
Ah ok, an NPS tank, so no need for a lot of power. Heck, what you have is even overkill lol, especially since few NPS are fluorescent. I can't find what size tank this is going over, but unless it's more than say 40g, you don't need as many LEDs as you have, especially violet, as they won't really help with anything.
Steve's LEDs and RapidLED both sell lime mounted to stars. Like I said I would skip the green altogether - they add nothing to the lime.
Led groupbuy does NOT sell Meanwell power supplies, theirs are cheap knockoffs. I would suggest a Meanwell HLG-120H-48 to power everything. They aren't cheap, but they are very high quality and IP67 rated.
Ah ok, an NPS tank, so no need for a lot of power. Heck, what you have is even overkill lol, especially since few NPS are fluorescent. I can't find what size tank this is going over, but unless it's more than say 40g, you don't need as many LEDs as you have, especially violet, as they won't really help with anything.
Steve's LEDs and RapidLED both sell lime mounted to stars. Like I said I would skip the green altogether - they add nothing to the lime.
Led groupbuy does NOT sell Meanwell power supplies, theirs are cheap knockoffs. I would suggest a Meanwell HLG-120H-48 to power everything. They aren't cheap, but they are very high quality and IP67 rated.
Yea, its overkill....but I can dim whatever I need to....id rather have to much than not enough and dim accordingly. Thanks for the heads up on the lime...ill be getting a few!
Ill still run the green, since I have it already.
Ill check out that ps you are talking about...thanks for catching my ps issue!
Ah ok, an NPS tank, so no need for a lot of power. Heck, what you have is even overkill lol, especially since few NPS are fluorescent. I can't find what size tank this is going over, but unless it's more than say 40g, you don't need as many LEDs as you have, especially violet, as they won't really help with anything.
Steve's LEDs and RapidLED both sell lime mounted to stars. Like I said I would skip the green altogether - they add nothing to the lime.
Led groupbuy does NOT sell Meanwell power supplies, theirs are cheap knockoffs. I would suggest a Meanwell HLG-120H-48 to power everything. They aren't cheap, but they are very high quality and IP67 rated.
I checked out that meanwell...it will safely power everything on it's own? even at 2.5a? Or do I need more than 1 of them?
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
The lime are really great. Philips really hit the nail on the head with them. They are ultra bright to the eye, I am mixing them 1:1 with 4000K white and it's stellar, much brighter than before without changing the CCT.Yea, its overkill....but I can dim whatever I need to....id rather have to much than not enough and dim accordingly. Thanks for the heads up on the lime...ill be getting a few!
Ill still run the green, since I have it already.
Ill check out that ps you are talking about...thanks for catching my ps issue!
Ignore the amperage - what is important is the output voltage and wattage. 48v means that if you want to power more LEDs on each LDD you can (up to 45v) and the wattage needs to be above what you are powering, which won't exceed the rating of the 120w supply.
