.:.:.10 channel Storm X DIY LED build.:.:.

jedimasterben said:
The ELN series does not have constant voltage capabilities, so they cannot be used as power supplies, only direct-drivers.
Click to expand...

Actually look at the spec sheet again they can be used just like the HLG or CLG drivers as a constant voltage supply or as constant current, you just have to crack open the housing (the P and D models though would still need a control source though so it would be a hassle to use them with LDDs, though you could if just give them a constant 10volt signal to run at full power, not ideal but it works)

I wouldn't buy one for that purpose but it is possible to convert an existing setup using LDDs in order to get 0-100% dimming without a total rebuild of an existing setup. Or if you just had some lying around collecting dust as I do.
 
zachts said:
but it is possible to convert an existing setup using LDDs in order to get 0-100% dimming without a total rebuild of an existing setup.
Click to expand...
That's basically what I intend to do.

How many LDDs could I run off an SE 350-48 in order to light up all the LEDs I have in my fixture.
Would that be as many as I want as long it doesn't exceed 350W on LEDs?

Except for the neutral whites, none of the LEDs are using more than 2W.

Or, as it seems it's possible, should I use the Mean Well - HLG's I already have.

Thanx in advance
 
Jimmy54 said:
How many LDDs could I run off an SE 350-48 in order to light up all the LEDs I have in my fixture.
Would that be as many as I want as long it doesn't exceed 350W on LEDs.
Click to expand...

You could run a hundred LDD from it if you could manage to get it all connected and not exceed ~290w. ;)

Voltage determines how many you can run in series (you will have 45v on the output of the LDD) and wattage determines the total number of LEDs at the amperage you choose to run them.


The HLG are far superior to the SE series and I would suggest to use those, instead. :)
 
Thanks, I think I got the picture.
back to the drawing-board it is, and start ordering some LDDs, the storm x and a few boards.

:beer:
 
jedimasterben said:
:dance:
Click to expand...

This thread has been immensely helpful. I think I have finally read enough about DIY LED projects to jump into it myself.

Jedi, your posts in this thread and others I have come across have really helped me to understand how this all works. Now that I figured it out it's so much simpler than I initially thought it was going to be.
 
This should be a pretty cool build as that you are going for fluorescent color of the tank/coral and what exactly you want color wise vs all par/growth like most others. I'll be following along..


Agreed that Jedi makes it easier for a led virgin to understand =). For some reason I've been reading led threads all night long (I'm an ATI t5 guy =) and this one in particular has opened my eyes a lot on the power supply end of the equation.. So thanks to all contributing..


I have a frag system going up that I want to diy some leds into my old sunpower but at this rate I may just use a shell from an old grow light and go all led to see what it can do.. Again awesome learning experience =)
 
jedimasterben said:
The ELN series does not have constant voltage capabilities, so they cannot be used as power supplies, only direct-drivers. If you were to use the HLG-60H-48, you could run up to ~60 watts of LEDs from them, which with the XM-L at 1A would be 20 of them,
Click to expand...
What about the B series - as in HLG-150H-36B. Can those be used as a CV driver too?
I have thought about 2 150's in series but they don't have pot's to adjust the output voltage to 27. Is there another way to get them at 27 volts each?
The voltage from the socket is 220/230V in our country, so putting them in series is not a problem. (the would run at 110/115 each)

I have the opportunity to get an HLG 320H 54A (brand new).
The onley thing is, I have to trade in 2 x150 and 1 x 185 HLG for it.
And actually I am someone who likes to have - or to keep a spare driver on the side ;)
 
Don't bother with the B models, as they are dimming supplies, unless that is all that you can purchase. Do not connect the dimming wires to anything.

Running two power supplies in series on the input? Why would you do that, it doesn't do anything to their output. Connect each one to an outlet or twist their wires together on one plug, there is no need to run their AC input in series.
 
jedimasterben said:
Don't bother with the B models, as they are dimming supplies, unless that is all that you can purchase. Do not connect the dimming wires to anything.

Running two power supplies in series on the input? Why would you do that, it doesn't do anything to their output. Connect each one to an outlet or twist their wires together on one plug, there is no need to run their AC input in series.
Click to expand...

That would not even work, probably, never tried it and wouldn't. and would just be plain stupid. AC sides should always be in parallel.
 
Ok...so I got my new power supply...I assume I just run 2 wires from the boards into the single wires for power? What do I with the DIM+ & DIM- blue & white wires?
 
Ok, so I need to cut down on some leds...my 12" heat sink won't fit these...so im curious what I can get rid of and achieve the same results.
 
foo_dog said:
Ok, so I need to cut down on some leds...my 12" heat sink won't fit these...so im curious what I can get rid of and achieve the same results.
Click to expand...

jedimasterben said:
In addition, I would consider replacing some of the LEDs you're using with either more modern versions (no sense in purchasing old tech at basically the same price) and eliminating duplicates.

6x 1up - Royal-Blue Cree XPE - Driver 1
Replace with XT-E or Rebel ES royal blue

6x 1up - Blue Cree XPE - Driver 2
Replace with the XP-E2 blue

2x 1up - Warm-White Cree XTE - Driver 3
4x 1up - Cool-White Cree XTE - Driver 4
2x 1up - Neu-White Luxeon Rebel - Driver 5
Never saw the reason for this - I would use all high-CRI neutral white Rebel ES or half warm and half cool white XT-E (another option is using only cool white and adding in PC amber to make up for the poor CRI, or using all high-CRI NW and adding lime to better adjust CCT)

1x 1up - Cyan Luxeon Rebel - Driver 6
1x 1up - Turquoise LED - Driver 6
The 'turquoise' LED covers the same spectra as the cyan Rebel

1x 1up - Cool Blue Exotic - Driver 6
The 'exotic' cool blue cover the same spectra as the XP-E/XP-E2 blue

4x 1up - Hyper Violet Exotic - Driver 7
4x 1up - True Violet Exotic - Driver 7

1x 1up - Yellow Osram SSL - Driver 8
1x 1up - Amber Luxon rebel - Driver 8
Yellow and amber are one and the same - I would suggest to replace with the PC-amber Rebel which is a wide-spectrum amber that will blend better, so less disco.

2x 1up - Green Cree XPE - Driver 9
Replace with lime Rebel ES, wide-spectrum and again better blending

4x 1up - True UV - Driver 10
4x 1up - Indigo - Driver 10
I don't know the manufacture of these LEDs, but compare their spectra and output to the two violet LEDs listed above, they're probably the exact same.


Going back over the thread you have already purchased the LEDs, bummer. lol
Click to expand...
 
I dont think im going to replace the older leds...I just need to cut some of the more of colors done. the uv's all cover different spectra. I want to keep them.
 
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