110 Gallon Setup Questions!

[Briggsnstraton]

Hey guys,

New here as well as to the world of reefs. I just setup a 6 gallon nano reef that is going pretty well. I have my current 110 gallon that is a planted that i just don't have interest for any more. BUT the light that I have on it I think will be perfect for setting up a reef tank. The aquarium does not have an overflow built in so i will need to get a HOB overflow with sump.

Light: 60" 4 bulb HO fixture total of 320Watts
Dimensions: 60 x 18 x 23

My questions are:

1. What size sump would be best for this?
2. What types of bulbs are ideal for LPS, SPS, and softcorals and anemones?
3. Is a refugium worth it?
4. Suggestions what type of substrate?
5. Live rock or dry rock to start?
6. Covered or not?
7. Is a moonlight necessary?
8. Should I do a schedule for the lights or just have all 4 on at the same time?


I look forward to learning a lot from this great community!

 

[m0nkie]

welcome!

1. What size sump would be best for this?
my recommendation is always the biggest you can fit in the cabinet. extra water volume = more stability. also more room for equipments
2. What types of bulbs are ideal for LPS, SPS, and softcorals and anemones?
I use ATI+ bulbs. There are other options too. I have an 8 bulb T5. 5 blue+, 2 purple+ and 1 actinic.. you can replace the purple with coral+ if you want.
3. Is a refugium worth it?
It won't do much on lowering nitrate, but it will help produce pods. free fish food
4. Suggestions what type of substrate?
bare bottom or fine sand.. Caribbean aragonite is fine. crushed corals can build up lot of detritus..
5. Live rock or dry rock to start?
dry rock to save money.. live rocks to save time on cycling. just keep an eye on unwanted critters on the live rocks. people bring in all kinds of nasties..
6. Covered or not?
always covered. white mesh is best.. glass cover will increase tank temperature
7. Is a moonlight necessary?
fish doesn't need it. it is purely for your viewing purpose. I use actinic for a few hours as moon light before lights off.
8. Should I do a schedule for the lights or just have all 4 on at the same time?
depends on what corals you have and how much lighting it needs. 4 bulb is ok for LPS.. you may need more for SPS. I use 2 bulbs to ramp up/down. The other 6 bulbs stay on constantly. a PAR reader will help you

 

[thegrun]

+1 on all of the above with the exception that I would not use a fine grained sand if you are planning on keeping SPS coral. I agree that you should avoid crushed coral, but a larger grained sand like CaribSea Dry Aragonite Special Grade Reef Sand, fine sand will get blown all over the tank with the high water flows needed in a tank with SPS coral.

 

[Shawn O]

Can the tank be drilled for sump plumbing? If you're going to convert to SW it's a great time to drill it while it's empty.

 

[Jay_R]

Hey guys,

New here as well as to the world of reefs. I just setup a 6 gallon nano reef that is going pretty well. I have my current 110 gallon that is a planted that i just don't have interest for any more. BUT the light that I have on it I think will be perfect for setting up a reef tank. The aquarium does not have an overflow built in so i will need to get a HOB overflow with sump.

Light: 60" 4 bulb HO fixture total of 320Watts
Dimensions: 60 x 18 x 23

My questions are:

1. What size sump would be best for this?

As before - Bigger the better, whatever you can accommodate

2. What types of bulbs are ideal for LPS, SPS, and softcorals and anemones?

I'm an LED advocate.. with 2 Blue T5s as supplement ( 14k seems to be a nice temp for most corals with a couple of 20K (Blues) for a little florescent pop )

3. Is a refugium worth it?

As above - for pods and food but not much else - takes up space for equipment ( Reactors etc )

4. Suggestions what type of substrate?

I have live sand - get a diamond watchman goby or similar to keep it tidy

5. Live rock or dry rock to start?

I like live rock - the critters and freebies can be rewarding but sometimes be ready for some not so welcome hitchhikers - it is a gamble but IMO it adds to the interest of the tank / hobby, seeing what pops up a few days / weeks down the line

6. Covered or not?

Definitely covered

7. Is a moonlight necessary?

I have a small blue LED similar to the link which is nice to look at at night, gives a nice low blue glow across the tank for my own pleasure - minimal cost, minimal consumption and pleasing aesthetically.

http://www.lights4fun.co.uk/i/q/SU1...ery-operated?gclid=CLOlzbWQisYCFQMbaQodEL4A7w


8. Should I do a schedule for the lights or just have all 4 on at the same time?

Depends on the lights. Most LEDs have controllers to simulate sunrise / sunset. Subject to your budget. Or you can just have them on a timer to simulate normal daytime / night duration. Some have the blues on before and after the whites come on for ramp simulation.


I look forward to learning a lot from this great community!

Welcome aboard! There's a wealth of information on this site with some very knowledgeable members..You'll learn something new every day!

Hot topics worth a read;

Carbon Dosing - Vodka Method
Ich - Tank Transfer Method
Algae removal - 3% Peroxide method
Tank Set up - Sk8er has a good thread running, it's a little old, but well worth a read.

:rollface:

 

[intyme]

Yeah, I'd drill and set up a bean animal drain. It would be better in the long run vs a hob overflow

 

[tzylak]

3. Is a refugium worth it?
IME my 3g chaeto fudge in the sump keeps NO3 at zero! -Best control method of all! Though I am still waiting for pods to show up and move in. . . .

 

[Jay_R]

3. Is a refugium worth it?
IME my 3g chaeto fudge in the sump keeps NO3 at zero! -Best control method of all! Though I am still waiting for pods to show up and move in. . . .

How do you know it's the cheato keeping the NO3 low?

 

[Briggsnstraton]

Can the tank be drilled for sump plumbing? If you're going to convert to SW it's a great time to drill it while it's empty.

is the HOB overflow not worth it?

welcome!

1. What size sump would be best for this?
my recommendation is always the biggest you can fit in the cabinet. extra water volume = more stability. also more room for equipments
2. What types of bulbs are ideal for LPS, SPS, and softcorals and anemones?
I use ATI+ bulbs. There are other options too. I have an 8 bulb T5. 5 blue+, 2 purple+ and 1 actinic.. you can replace the purple with coral+ if you want.
3. Is a refugium worth it?
It won't do much on lowering nitrate, but it will help produce pods. free fish food
4. Suggestions what type of substrate?
bare bottom or fine sand.. Caribbean aragonite is fine. crushed corals can build up lot of detritus..
5. Live rock or dry rock to start?
dry rock to save money.. live rocks to save time on cycling. just keep an eye on unwanted critters on the live rocks. people bring in all kinds of nasties..
6. Covered or not?
always covered. white mesh is best.. glass cover will increase tank temperature
7. Is a moonlight necessary?
fish doesn't need it. it is purely for your viewing purpose. I use actinic for a few hours as moon light before lights off.
8. Should I do a schedule for the lights or just have all 4 on at the same time?
depends on what corals you have and how much lighting it needs. 4 bulb is ok for LPS.. you may need more for SPS. I use 2 bulbs to ramp up/down. The other 6 bulbs stay on constantly. a PAR reader will help you

if i go dry on everything, whats the best way to start the cycling process then?
could you point me in the right direction for the white mesh that you are referring to?

+1 on all of the above with the exception that I would not use a fine grained sand if you are planning on keeping SPS coral. I agree that you should avoid crushed coral, but a larger grained sand like CaribSea Dry Aragonite Special Grade Reef Sand, fine sand will get blown all over the tank with the high water flows needed in a tank with SPS coral.

Will definitly get that type of substrate, i have the real fine stuff in my nano, and it moves ALOT...

Welcome aboard! There's a wealth of information on this site with some very knowledgeable members..You'll learn something new every day!

Hot topics worth a read;

Carbon Dosing - Vodka Method
Ich - Tank Transfer Method
Algae removal - 3% Peroxide method
Tank Set up - Sk8er has a good thread running, it's a little old, but well worth a read.

:rollface:

I think all day at work today will be reading over those topics

 

[m0nkie]

is the HOB overflow not worth it?


if i go dry on everything, whats the best way to start the cycling process then?
could you point me in the right direction for the white mesh that you are referring to?

you can add 1 live rock and all dead rocks.

you can cycle with a raw shrimp. (buy a table shrimp from market, put it in a mesh bag, and drop into water. once it start decomposing, it will start the cycle)

you can also buy bacteria in a bottle and then add pure ammonia. I have used Dr Tim's One and Only with good results. all 3 methods work the same.

I used this mesh set from BRS. comes with everything you need
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/diy-aquarium-screen-top-kits-1-4-netting.html

 

[tzylak]

How do you know it's the cheato keeping the NO3 low?

I tried RDSB, multiple WC, etc., to have it hover at 15-30. Within a week after adding Chaeto the NO3 went down to 0, as expected. It remained at 0 ever since. I keep it lit 18hrs/day with a 650W 6000K LED flood.

 

[Shawn O]

is the HOB overflow not worth it?

Some will say they've run them successfully for years without problem, some will say it's a catastrophe waiting to happen. Put simply, if something that drains water from your tank relies on a siphon to keep up with the amount of water you're pumping into the tank, what would happen if the siphon breaks? Water is still pumping into the tank from the sump, and will keep pumping until the sump runs dry and the pump burns out All that water has to go somewhere....

 

[Briggsnstraton]

Some will say they've run them successfully for years without problem, some will say it's a catastrophe waiting to happen. Put simply, if something that drains water from your tank relies on a siphon to keep up with the amount of water you're pumping into the tank, what would happen if the siphon breaks? Water is still pumping into the tank from the sump, and will keep pumping until the sump runs dry and the pump burns out All that water has to go somewhere....

Ok, i think the only way of doing this is using a HOB, just gotta be sure of my pipes.. do you think the single siphon will be sufficient?

 

[Clownfish Chris]

With my experience, I would rather not have a tank than use a siphon overflow. Saltwater+wood+carpet+electrical wiring+not happy wife+++ = $$$$$ and not worth the risk. Drilling the tank is not difficult to DIY and not expensive to have it done. There is another option depending on your tank, an in tank sump.

 

[Jay_R]

I tried RDSB, multiple WC, etc., to have it hover at 15-30. Within a week after adding Chaeto the NO3 went down to 0, as expected. It remained at 0 ever since. I keep it lit 18hrs/day with a 650W 6000K LED flood.

Fair enough.. Do you still have the DSB?

 

[ericarenee]

With my experience, I would rather not have a tank than use a siphon overflow. Saltwater+wood+carpet+electrical wiring+not happy wife+++ = $$$$$ and not worth the risk. Drilling the tank is not difficult to DIY and not expensive to have it done. There is another option depending on your tank, an in tank sump.

Not to mention if you really truly Do not have the money to set it up Correctly, You might want to rethink the whole idea. its a expensive hobby when you do it wrong.. Spend the money up front to do it right and save big bucks and Headaches later .

 

[Jay_R]

Not to mention if you really truly Do not have the money to set it up Correctly, You might want to rethink the whole idea. its a expensive hobby when you do it wrong.. Spend the money up front to do it right and save big bucks and Headaches later .

I think with the advances in technology, hang on overflows are becoming more and more reliable and lower risk. The only real risk with a HOB overflow is the siphon not breaking and thus flooding the sump - leading to a severe ear bashing from the Mrs.. But let us not forget that drilling a tank carries as much risk as an overflow. If a bulkhead seal fails, or a connection somewhere in the pipework fails the outcome is the same.

I'm for a drilled tank, but fully understand that some may be daunted by the idea.. but shouldn't be put off.

 

[tzylak]

Fair enough.. Do you still have the DSB?

Yes I still got it. -Chaeto is most effective to bring down NO3, while DSB maintains an overall bio stability. It's all good.

 

[Briggsnstraton]

I understand the risks as any other risk with having a big fish tank.

and I appreciate your concerns

but I have been doing some research on these HOB overflows http://www.lifereef.com/siphon.html

And they sound very well made.

 

[ericarenee]

I think with the advances in technology, hang on overflows are becoming more and more reliable and lower risk. The only real risk with a HOB overflow is the siphon not breaking and thus flooding the sump - leading to a severe ear bashing from the Mrs.. But let us not forget that drilling a tank carries as much risk as an overflow. If a bulkhead seal fails, or a connection somewhere in the pipework fails the outcome is the same.

I'm for a drilled tank, but fully understand that some may be daunted by the idea.. but shouldn't be put off.

There should be no risk of the siphon not breaking if the water level in the back box is set enough lower then the internal box.
The Risk of a over tank over flow box is Power up from a power outage. This almost always produces air Bubbles that end up collecting in the top of the tube on a over the tank overflow box.. You can minimize this with a uplift pump. This is something that Can NOT Occur with a Properly designed and installed Drilled tank over flow..
The Risk of a leak is the same on either or any tank that is ran to a sump. I Have ran long ago a over the tank over flow box Before uplift pumps and i can tell i have had the siphon break many times due to air Bubbles...
So i would say a OVER The tank over flow could be acceptable with a uplift pump to maintain it... But its riskier then a drilled situation by a long measure