120g Stock List (Yes...another one.)

SteveJakubiec

SteveJakubiec

In Memoriam
It's a 120g Tank 4'x2'x2'

5-Resplendent Anthias
2-Picasso Clownfish (Or similar species)
1-Kole Tang
1-Blue Spot Jawfish
1-Leopard Wrasse
1-Tailspot Blenny
1-Flame Hawkfish
1-Potter's Angelfish
2-Margin Wrasse (Pair)

I would like to add another fish or two, but I'd like to know if I am overstocked as of now seeing as how the Kole Tang would be the largest fish, mainly the only large fish. I'd also like a suggestion on the last fish(es).


There'll be a 30-40g Sump, ASM G-3 Skimmer, Fuge w/ Live Rock Rubble and Chaeto, somewhere around 20-30lbs in Fuge. 120-140lbs of Live rock in the display. TLF Phosban Reactors 150's, 1 for Phosban and one for Carbon. 3-4" Sand Bed, and a DSB in the fuge. If I'm missing anymore filtration, please tell me.

Thanks,
Steve
 
Hi there.
I was recently trying to stock my own 125, but I have gone with a 150 instead. Your fish list is a bit overstocked and I learned from others on the board, so I am only repeating advice and information, reflective of what advice and research I have come across. If I were you, I would also consider waiting on the Phosphate reactors and see if you need them. There is nothing wrong with having one, but why spend the money, if you end up not having any trouble with phosphates, b/c your Chaeto, skimmer, and remote DSB do the job? If you find you need one later, they are easy to pick up and install.
Here is how I would stock your tank, without altering your fish list too much:

3-Resplendent Anthias 1 male and 2 females
2-Picasso Clownfish (Or similar species) a pair can become aggressive, so I went with one
1-Kole Tang
1-Blue Spot Jawfish you have already inquired and found these to be difficult, if you need to replace that fish, try a pearly jawfish or orange/pink spotted shrimp goby instead
3-Leopard Wrasse( I have found these fish to do well kept as a harem nd they look awesome, when kept this way...it is not a requirement, but it was my experience) I like meleagris or bipars
1-Tailspot Blenny
0-Flame Hawkfish I would omit him, they can eat ornamental shrimps and are actually a deeper water fish, but they are plenty hardy
1-Potter's Angelfish
2-Margin Wrasse (Pair) wrasses can be hard on other wrasses, why not go with a pair of banggaiis or firefish intsead?A more peaceful damsel would not be a bad idea either

Now you have 14 fish, which is still a little higher, than some will advise, but feed correctly, add slowly, and monitor water quality in between fish additions, and you will be fine.
 
I think you're pushing it a little with that skimmer bioload wise. Are you modding that ASM at all? A gate valve mod a a meshed impeller will really kick you skimming up a knotch. I have 13 fish, and was running a modded ASM G4x on my 120 and I thought it was adequate, but I just switched to a dual beckett skimmer and I am amazed as to how much gunk comes out of my "clean" system.

I like the anthias choice resplendents are smaller and very beautiful. The Kole is a good choice too I thought of going that way but went with a single yellow tang instead. The Potters is an excellent choice as well and one dwarf angel is enough in a 120 too.

I sort of agree that you can add the GFO later, if needed, but if this is a young tank, you're likely to see PO4 from new live rock and such. I'd run GFO, GAC, UV and O3, these will help to keep you water clear while the tank is maturing, but that's just me :)
 
5-Resplendent Anthias
2-Picasso Clownfish (Or similar species)
1-Kole Tang
1-Blue Spot Jawfish
1-Leopard Wrasse
1-Tailspot Blenny
1-Flame Hawkfish
1-Potter's Angelfish
2-Margin Wrasse (Pair)


With that stock list what type of skimmer would you suggest?
 
You can find good buy on used ATIs, Octopus and such, good not outrageously priced skimmers designed for 200+ tanks would be great IMO.

If you mod the G3 and are prudent with feeding you may just get buy, I think every system is so different the rules are not black and white. You do have several smaller fish on your list.

It is hard to pick a complete list in advance of the tank. Start adding what you want most, take time between each addition, and watch the response of your system to each addition to make educated decisions as to the next addition, if any.

HTH
 
I have had the same dilema, with trying to form a stock-list and adhere to the ''rules'' of reef stocking. I think you are asking the right questions, as far as asking which skimmer you will need and so forth. I agree with the above poster, in that stocking should be attempted by slowly adding fish and monitoring the system for changes in the nitrogen cycle(take maeasurement over three weeks between additions). It is also impossible to apply any ''rules'' to stocking a tank, b/c different fish have different feeding needs, different tempraments, different relationships with other tankmates, and different bioloads. I would think a 120, with a decent skimmer (may I add to the other suggestions and allow you to consider C&C marine), sump, remote DSB, a cycled and functioning biological filter (liverock), and appropriate feeding, should allow for 10-just under 20, smaller, loer bioload fish. I think you hsould stay as close to 10 fish as possible and do as suggested, by adding what you ''must'' have first and watching the system. I know my problem is wanting a fish for every level of my tank and for the fish to look compatible with the system. I am very critical as to what fish look ''right'' to me in consideration of the tank depth, the appearence of the lighting, the colors of the rock and corals, and the other types of fish and invertebrates are in the system. I currently am setting up a 150gallon, with a 55 gallon sump and my stock-list has 23 fish on it!!! I am always asking about fish and whittling it down from there. My only 2 must haves are my 3 leopards and 1 false perc to please the other half...everything else is open to my taste and the systems limitations. You'll find that once you just add your must haves, your mind will change and your choices will fall into place, rather than being such an internal debate. For me, I find the planning of my stocklist enjoyable, enjoy your planning stage too....it will reward you in the end, the more youput into it.
 
That's good advice flashylepord.

IMO the tank should be stocked with fish and inverts that fit your aquascape and fill niches presented by it.

In my tank, a 120 g with about 150 pounds of LR, I have open water fish (coral beauty, heniochus butterfly, yellow tank, fox face & a rabbit), top swimmers (chromis in my case could be anthias as well), in rock fish (pair of orchid dottybacks) and clowns (in anemone fish)and one azure damsel (he sticks to the coral heads). You don't want to over crowd any one of these niches.

If you're successful your tank looks full of life in balance.
 
Thanks Bax. Looks like you have a full tank with several medium to larger fish. I like to use tangs, smaller angels, and a CBB as ''anchors'', to give the tank the impression of the infinity of the ocean and not fill it with only colorful, nano fish. I dod tend to prefer smaller fish, so it was a difficult choice for me to break out of my comfort zone with stocking and consider the roles the larger fish play in the look an dthe finction of the system.
I have now slimmed my list down to 18 fish and still tinkering. It will be a few months at least, before I am able to put the money forward for all of the equiptment I need to run the tank, so fish are far off. I like the idea of letting the tank cycle and mature, though I am not patient enough to wait a full year with and empty tank...lol My plan is to allow the tank to cycle, then add hardy CUC members and hardy corals, like mushrooms and star polyps, to allow tham to use up some of the nutrients and begin covering the rock int he lower areas of the tank. As it gets more stable, soft corals and a few fish at about the 6-8 month mark, and then start the stocking as I would like it. It gives me lots of time to consider fish and inverts for my 150 display.
 
Just checked out your tank shots under your red house, Bax. I like the arrangement you have with the rockwork...very well done.
I am going to do something similar, though I will have a bit more rock. I like a nice open front, so I build my rock work up along the back and slope it down on the sides, so it tapers off at the front. Kind of looks like a reef version of a tidepool. I also like the look of rock islands also, so I am going to try to mesh the two design styles and get a really natural, open rock structure. I also plan to raise the structures up off of the sand with PVC and eggcrate to help move detritus into suspension for removal by the skimmer, overflows. There is a tank in the softy section of the forums done by bradleyj and it is sinspiring. I like the coverage of the rocks and I plan to use that tank as a starting point and confine my acros and montipora towards the top of the rock work. I think his fish are little crowded in his tank, but I love the aquascape. I will also leave some rock exposed, b/c I want to get some of those wicked plating forms of coraline algae going.

For comparison, my fish stock list for my 72''X18''X27''
150gallon display/205 total volume, is as follows:

3 Ignitus anthias
1 2 spot bristletooth tang
1 purple tang
1 Copper banded butterfly
1 green mandarin (have to watch him to be sure the CBB and wrasses leave him enough pods)
1 Pacific red striped hog (like a peppermint hog)
2 tank-bred banggaii cardinals
3 meleagris leopard wrasses or bipars
1 tank-bred false percula clown
3 C. parasema or yellow tailed damsels
1 tailspot blenny

Total of 18 fish

Most of the fish are grazers and don't need tons of additional food and the wrasses, blenny, and damsels, are o flittle signigance tyo the bioload, b/c they feed from the rock work and require minimal additional foods. The tangs will be that way too, if there is enough algae left over from the CUC, but more than likely, there won't be.

I tried to accomplish activity at all levels of the tank, provide a mixture of vibrant and subdued colors, to give a natural look, and include some large and medium sized fish, as well as smaller fish, also to keep a more random look to the tank. I also stick with odd numbers and tried to pick fish that would enjoy the same foods, to minimize any being left after feedings. I know the tangs will require specialized additions of marine algae based foods and I will accomodate that as well. I also have a CUC planned and my invert stock list is set in stone. I like to keep all my fish from the Indo-Pacific and Red Sea, even the inverts. My CUC is all tropical Pacific in orgin. The only thing I don't have planned to the letter is the corals I will keep. I will be doing mostly softied, with a few plateing montipora and some of the compact acros, and birdnest types of sps. I love gorgonians, but they never bring in any photsynthetic ones form the Pacific, so I will cheat and sneak in a few purple sea blades...he he. I will laso have some crocea and maxima clams. I can't wait to just get the rock in the tank!!!!
 
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5-Resplendent Anthias
2-Picasso Clownfish (Or similar species)
1-Kole Tang
1-Blue Spot Jawfish
1-Leopard Wrasse
1-Tailspot Blenny
1-Flame Hawkfish
1-Potter's Angelfish
2-Margin Wrasse (Pair)

For a 120 I do not think this is over-doing it, even with a few more small fish. If you keep up your water changes your ASM G3 should be fine, but there are far better skimmers out there, like the new Octopus MSX series and the Bubble Magus skimmers. Upgrading your skimmer is usually a good idea:) Most of your fish on the list are small and have far less biomass than larger fish such as tangs or angels. The anthias need to be fed often to keep them really healthy, but that should not be a problem.
 
5-Resplendent Anthias
2-Picasso Clownfish (Or similar species)
1-Kole Tang
1-Blue Spot Jawfish
1-Leopard Wrasse
1-Tailspot Blenny
1-Flame Hawkfish
1-Potter's Angelfish
2-Margin Wrasse (Pair)
5-Chromis

I am thinking of upgrading the skimmer to a EURO Reef RS250 or something similar.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13149323#post13149323 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by flashyleopard
Hi there.
I was recently trying to stock my own 125, but I have gone with a 150 instead. Your fish list is a bit overstocked and I learned from others on the board, so I am only repeating advice and information, reflective of what advice and research I have come across. If I were you, I would also consider waiting on the Phosphate reactors and see if you need them. There is nothing wrong with having one, but why spend the money, if you end up not having any trouble with phosphates, b/c your Chaeto, skimmer, and remote DSB do the job? If you find you need one later, they are easy to pick up and install.
Here is how I would stock your tank, without altering your fish list too much:

3-Resplendent Anthias 1 male and 2 females
2-Picasso Clownfish (Or similar species) a pair can become aggressive, so I went with one
1-Kole Tang
1-Blue Spot Jawfish you have already inquired and found these to be difficult, if you need to replace that fish, try a pearly jawfish or orange/pink spotted shrimp goby instead
3-Leopard Wrasse( I have found these fish to do well kept as a harem nd they look awesome, when kept this way...it is not a requirement, but it was my experience) I like meleagris or bipars
1-Tailspot Blenny
0-Flame Hawkfish I would omit him, they can eat ornamental shrimps and are actually a deeper water fish, but they are plenty hardy
1-Potter's Angelfish
2-Margin Wrasse (Pair) wrasses can be hard on other wrasses, why not go with a pair of banggaiis or firefish intsead?A more peaceful damsel would not be a bad idea either

Now you have 14 fish, which is still a little higher, than some will advise, but feed correctly, add slowly, and monitor water quality in between fish additions, and you will be fine.
Click to expand...




Please reread my earlier post and consider that it is not only about the skimmer and bioload you need to consider with your list. You will have some incapdibility issues with 2 species of wrasses and a pair of clown can become bullies in a community, so go with false percula, if you stay with a pair. The hawk fish will eat ornamental shrimps. It isn't just the number of fish you need to consider, but how they will interact and who might be in competition for who. I apologize, if this has a harsh tone. It is not meant to be at all. I don't know everything and am only making sure I make you aware of the potential pitfalls I see, before they happen.:D
 
I also think that many fish interactions depend on how you add them. One at a time tends to get them killed, and always add the meekest first and the more boisterous last. I would add your fish in groups maybe five or six at a time.
by margin wrasse do you mean: Cirrhilabrus rubrimarginatus ?
I have had them and they were pretty laid back, but I find lubbocks to be really nice myself.
I never really did a whole lot with leopard wrasses, I had one for quite a while but never a group. Sounds cool.
 
It can, but the leopard wrasses are like mandarins, in that they need a healthy pod population to feed on all day. They do accept some prepared foods, but not enough to survive without the pods. I have no direct experience with the margin wrasse, but most wrasses eat pods and these will out compete, if not harass the leopard. I am off to look up the margin wrasses to be sure my concern is warranted. The clowns, if not a well-chosen, mellow type, like percula or occelaris, could be trouble as a pair. I do agree that the most aggressive fish are to be added last.
 
After lookinf at the margin wrasse, I would say they would be one of the better choices, if one were to mix wrasse species with leopards, but I would inquire on the thread about fish selection, by SK8er, in the New to the Hobby Forum. It is called PLEASE check out your intended fish purchases here first! .
 
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pod competition makes sense, even a 180 only produces so many.....
if all the wrasse eat pods it would be best to get only the leopards as they are somewhat touchy, or forget them and get something else (more fairy wrasse?) that are easier to keep.
 
Oh well:

I know Hawkfish eat Ornamental Shrimp, don't plan on having any.

My Leopard Wrasse eats frozen, or anything I put into the tank.

I've decided to drop the Margin wrasses, because I don't feel that great about them, friends have had them, haven't done well for them.

Picasso Clowns are either Percula or Ocellaris (Pretty sure, not sure which of the two tho)

I also do think that my fish choices would live in different niches of the tank:

5-Resplendent Anthias (Rockwork and Water Column Mid-High)
2-Picasso Clownfish ( Anemone )
1-Kole Tang (Water Column Mid-High)
1-Blue Spot Jawfish (Substrate)
1-Leopard Wrasse (Rockwork, Mid Tank)
1-Tailspot Blenny (Mid Tank Level)
1-Flame Hawkfish (Mid Tank Leve)
1-Potter's Angelfish (Mid Tank/Water Column High)
5-Chromis (Water Column (High) )
 
A niche is more than the level where the fish swims. it also where the animal sits in the pecking order of aggression and what it eats. Most reef fish are mid level swimmers, but they do fine, b/c the all eat different things or they defend the territory against imposers. For expample, the yellow tail damsel and the anthias occupy areas above coral heads. The anthias are planktonivores, while the damsels are more grazers/omnivores, that makes for 2 seperate niches and porbable cohabitation in the aquarium of large enough size.
 
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