120g Upgrade

Poppy828

Active member
Afternoon everyone.

Just wanted to share my experience of my current-in progress- upgrade to a 120g BareBottom. Wife and I had wanted to do a larger tank this year of around 400-450g. That plan has been delayed for awhile until some other issues are sorted out.

We opted for the 120 for it's depth of 24". This would also allow us to utilize the Oak shell we had built for the current 75g and canopy. We need to make some minor changes to these pieces, but it is minimal work.

With the generous help of Rod and the use of his shop, a new stand has been built for the 120g. I caulked and painted it to seal it up for those occasional spills. I have also drilled (5) holes in the tank. (1) 2" for the intake of my Dart and (4) 1" for the returns from my Oceans Motions 4 way. That was quite an expeience I tell you. Takes time to drill holes and beats up your back a little trying to not put a lot fo pressure on the glass, holding the drill steady, etc. So any of you that think $20 a hole for Rod to drill is expensive, pick the drill up yourself an do it. You will think twice about questioning his fee.

Anyway, I went to Lowe's last night and purhased what I hope to be all the plumbing parts I will need. For those wondering, about $170 total. I chose to buy true union ball valves which were not cheap. I am using 1" spa Flex for the returns from the 4 way which is also a pretty penny. Do it right or not at all is my philosophy. Tonight, I plan to purhase the Oak that is needed and go out to Rod's and cut and stain the pieces needed. Along with that, I plan to start on the plumbing. We are also going to use Black Pond Foam on the back glass to help conceal the bulkheads a bit. Wife and I want a clean look with no powerheads in the tank or things sticking out of the back wall like an eyesore. Hopefully we can get the foam formed the way we need to make it lk natural.

I will get some pics tonight of the stand and what have you if time allows. This should turn out to be a great experience and fun project. Fingers crossed that everything goes as planned.

Todd
 
Some updated pics.....

DSCN4546.jpg


This is the stand of course. 2x4 corners and main runners. The bottom and top are covered in 1/2" CDX plywood. The joints are all caulked (even underneath) with a silicone based exterior window caulk. I then used Latex semi-gloss white paint to finish sealing the wood. 2 coats of paint. Overflows were cut out also as seen in the following pic.

DSCN4547.jpg


1 more of the stand

DSCN4548.jpg


Instead of using starboard and spending $100 for 2 pieces that would eventually warp and trap detritus underneath, I chose to go with a glass bottom. I painted the bottom of the tank to help reflect light upwards until of course it is covered in coraline. I also painted the back of the tank black. I will be using the Black pond foam on the back also which I have not done yet. I opted to drill (2) more 1" holes last night in the bottom back corners just to make sure I have enough flow. That gives me (6) 1" holes for the outlets on the 4 way closed loop and (1) 2" for the intake. Should have no issues with flow now. :)

DSCN4549.jpg


DSCN4550.jpg


DSCN4551.jpg


More to come

Todd
 
I did get the oak cut last night also and stained. Here is a before and after pic....

DSCN4552.jpg


DSCN4553.jpg


These pieces were cut from a 1x12x9' piece Red Oak. I still need to buy, cut and stain the 1x2 trim pieces for the top and bottom trim on the shell and canopy.

I will get more pics as the project progresses more.

Todd
 
Thanks.

That is actually vegetable oil on the tank. Keeps the blade lubricated. Without it, you could crack the glass and have heat issues as well.

Todd
 
Hey Todd
looking good just wanted to jump on and follow your progress
In the near future I will be upgrading to a 180 so any ideals I can pick up here will be cool
I am going with a closed loop but only 1 hole and return over the top
 
I thought of the over the top, but wanted the inside of the tank to be as clean as possible. I want nothing more than absolutely needed inside the tank. Just hope my idea works as well as I think it will. :)

You will be able to see the tank and stand in person when you go out to Rod's for your tank. It's still there. Just waiting on the 4 way so I can get the plumbing all figured out. If you have questions, I would be happy to try and help the best I can. Would love to see the 180 when it is up and running also. I still owe you a purple bubble tip mushroom anyway. :)~

Todd
 
I will out by Rods on sunday evening to get the hole drilled and $20 is well worth it to me.
Hopefully by the time I get it all up and running you will have that purpletip mushroom for me and you can drop it off and see it in person insted of pics.
When the time comes to get started I will start my own thread so people can follow it as well if they want
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6705682#post6705682 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by whiirly
I will out by Rods on sunday evening to get the hole drilled and $20 is well worth it to me.
Hopefully by the time I get it all up and running you will have that purpletip mushroom for me and you can drop it off and see it in person insted of pics.
When the time comes to get started I will start my own thread so people can follow it as well if they want

I may be out there Sunday. Not sure yet. See how things go. I will make sure to get a shroom to you when you are ready. Just hope it hurries up and splits again. :)

Be interested to follow your thread. The $20 for Rod to drill is more than worth it. The holes are a pain and take time. He is much better than I at it, but it still takes time and patience.

Todd
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6705688#post6705688 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TheCoralReef731
So is that some protective covor over the glass?

That is the back of the tank actually. I painted it black before cutting the holes. 3 coats to be exact.

Todd
 
Anyone have experience with cutting spa flex with a miter saw? I am certain it can handle it as they do a good job with regular PVC. Just want to make sure is all. I have the 1" and 2" spa flex to cut for the new tank. Would be much easier to cut with a miter than hand saw.

Thanks,

Todd
 
I used a hacksaw for my spa flex. Make sure you glue the crap out of that stuff. I used spa flex for the return from the bulkhead to the sump. When I was making my durso overflow I had to remove the return pipe a few times and now the stupid thing leaks very slowly down the spa flex and into the sump. I have to get under there and dry it and load it up with some silacone. Good Luck!

AJ
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6706436#post6706436 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Poppy828
Anyone have experience with cutting spa flex with a miter saw? I am certain it can handle it as they do a good job with regular PVC. Just want to make sure is all. I have the 1" and 2" spa flex to cut for the new tank. Would be much easier to cut with a miter than hand saw.

Thanks,

Todd

Miter saw works fine for spa flex, I usually also dress the cut with a small drum sander in my dremel, to get a nice clean edge.

Watch gluing spaflex into couplings and the like, where you have a shorter than normal depth to glue into. I usually glue the spa flex into a regular pvc fitting with a short length of rigid pipe on the other side, then glue that into the coupling. Gives a much better joint wrt to potential for leaks with subsequent movement, etc.
Also get the Coatey spaflex cement from Menards, it has more flex when cured.
 
Hey dave. I did get the Coatey Spa Flex for this job. I don't have any couplings. I bypassed all of that. Each piece of the spa flex will go either directly into an elbow or the true union ball valves. I am not using any male adaptors withe the spa flex either. I opted to go pvc on those applications to be safe since the connection is quite a bit less than say the elbow or unions.

I thank you for the help. Seems like you have plumbed a few systems before. ;) Wanna do another one....LOL

Todd
 
Also, ensure that the Spa Flex is cut exactly perpendicular to maximize insertion depth. It is easiest to cut Spa Flex with a PVC pipe cutter; I bought a 2" cutter for $30 on eBay.

HTH

Bryan
 
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