125 build

[Kalen]

I think it's time to start my 125 thread as I'm starting to move forward with it.

The tank is a 125 lemar pre drilled with a center rear overflow.

The tank sits on a steel stand build by csample ( great work ) by the way.

A 55 gallon custom sump.

I'm upgrading from a Jbj 30 RL

Some may remember some of the pictures from another thread where I was asking question. Now I am in the process of putting everything together.

For the plumbing I am running schedule 80 all through the system with unions and gate valves and a ball valve.

For the return nozzles that was a little tricky for form me. I did not want to cut the teeth on the overflow box, but I did not see any other way to do things as I didn't want to run anything above the over flow box so I decided to go buy a dremel and cut one of the teeth out and sand down two other ones so I could fit a bulk head in, in order to put the nozzles in.

I will have more to come in the next few day.

 

[Kalen]

I picked up two of these 55 gallon poly drums for $25 each. I couldn't pass up such a great deal. They'll work great for water changes and mixing.

 

[AZBigJohn]

They are great drums. I used two, and a good external pump, and feed my RODI into one, and then pump it into the other one for mixing the salt in. Only issue was that metal ring. They were a major pain, so they "disappeared" and the lids stay fine.

 

[Kalen]

They are great drums. I used two, and a good external pump, and feed my RODI into one, and then pump it into the other one for mixing the salt in. Only issue was that metal ring. They were a major pain, so they "disappeared" and the lids stay fine.

As I said I thought they would work perfectly for me. But wasn't to sure on how to plumb them. I will running my rodi line into a barrel as well with a auto shut electronic sensor to where it shuts off when it reaches a certain level. But that is where I am with that right now.

 

[AZBigJohn]

As I said I thought they would work perfectly for me. But wasn't to sure on how to plumb them. I will running my rodi line into a barrel as well with a auto shut electronic sensor to where it shuts off when it reaches a certain level. But that is where I am with that right now.

Here is how I did it. When I separate them to clean them this fall. I put in too many 90 degree turns, and slowed the output somewhat. I will have the output lines come straight out the sides towards each other, then T them off at the pump. I will also add unions so t is easier to separate for cleaning.

Basically the barrel on the left is where my RODI drains into (I use the float switch that Spectrapure included. I have a single pump between them. There is an up-riser from the pump that has a T with a plastic hose connector, which I can screw in a 25' long 3/4 inch poly tubing. The up line continues and empties into the salt water mixing station.

By using the ball valves, I can either pump RODI into the salt water tank, pump salt water into the salt water tank to mix, or I can direct output to the hose, and pump salt water into my tanks, or RODI water into my top offs.

 

[AZBigJohn]

I should note in the picture above, I am mixing saltwater. The hose is connected as I pumped the remaining salt water in the tank into one of my tanks, and I need to make more to clean the big tank.

The surge strip hanging from the system usually isn't there, but that will also be a change on the re-boot. I will wire the pump into some type of switch, so I don;t need to find the plug and plug or unplug it all the time.

 

[Kalen]

I should note in the picture above, I am mixing saltwater. The hose is connected as I pumped the remaining salt water in the tank into one of my tanks, and I need to make more to clean the big tank.

The surge strip hanging from the system usually isn't there, but that will also be a change on the re-boot. I will wire the pump into some type of switch, so I don;t need to find the plug and plug or unplug it all the time.

Thanks for taking the time to explain it to me. I'll be sure to re read this when I hook everything up.

Now my rodi will be available tomorrow sometime as well as my skimmer. Got things for cheap. I'll will be also adding a electronic sensor will turn on and off my rodi as needed. However that is still a month or so down the road before I am able to pick that sensor up.


On your drums did you use bulkheads? Having been trying to figure out if I should use them heard that bulkheads can leak and its better to use uniseals instead

 

[AZBigJohn]

I had no luck with the uniseals at all, and they did leak for me (I tried them first).

I actually used the industrial-strength bulkheads they sold at the barrel place I bought them, but I would bet you could get them at any plumbing supply store. They have wider threads than the aquarium one, and definitely seemed to tighten much tighter (of course I wasn't worried about cracking the barrel!) No leaks even after adjusting where they were sitting, etc...

I have heard several people who used and liked the uniseals, which is why I tried them first. I just didn;t have any luck using them.

 

[Kalen]

That's the reason I haven't drilled in to the barrels yet. I was afraid what I wanted to do wouldn't work. So I just held off on things. But now that I have a better idea I may start working on it again

 

[Kalen]

Here is how I did it. When I separate them to clean them this fall. I put in too many 90 degree turns, and slowed the output somewhat. I will have the output lines come straight out the sides towards each other, then T them off at the pump. I will also add unions so t is easier to separate for cleaning.

Basically the barrel on the left is where my RODI drains into (I use the float switch that Spectrapure included. I have a single pump between them. There is an up-riser from the pump that has a T with a plastic hose connector, which I can screw in a 25' long 3/4 inch poly tubing. The up line continues and empties into the salt water mixing station.

By using the ball valves, I can either pump RODI into the salt water tank, pump salt water into the salt water tank to mix, or I can direct output to the hose, and pump salt water into my tanks, or RODI water into my top offs.

Now I have read a few different forums on saltwater mixing stations. I have the basic idea down, however I am limited on space right now I have one drum on my front room right off the kitchen. The second one is in my car port. Now with that being said where is the best place to set something like this up. Would it be wise to set it up in my car port. And how often do the drums need to be cleaned out.

See what I was thinking was have the rodi line cone in to one bucket once that is filled up yes I could pump into the second one like your setup and have one for salt and one for rodi. They would sit on some sort of platform with a drain spout near the bottom. I don't mind having to pump the water from a 5 gallon bucket into the tank.

 

[Kalen]

I am also wondering what is the yes range for reef tanks. I like to keep track of everything to make sure things don't get out of wack. So I use aquarimate to keeps records of everything and wanted to input a new parameter for yes but wasn't sure on the range can anyone help me out?

 

[AZBigJohn]

I am also wondering what is the yes range for reef tanks. I like to keep track of everything to make sure things don't get out of wack. So I use aquarimate to keeps records of everything and wanted to input a new parameter for yes but wasn't sure on the range can anyone help me out?

I'm not sure what "yes" is... My first thought was, "My yes range is anything I can afford, that my wife won't kill me for.."

Sorry, not much help, I know...

 

[Kalen]

I'm not sure what "yes" is... My first thought was, "My yes range is anything I can afford, that my wife won't kill me for.."

Sorry, not much help, I know...

Oops... Yes was a Typo.


I was asking or trying to ask what the tds range is for reef tanks.

 

[AZBigJohn]

Oops... Yes was a Typo.


I was asking or trying to ask what the tds range is for reef tanks.

The TDS for the water you use to create salt water should be 0.

It is impossible to measure the TDS of Salt Water, as the salt and electrolytes in salt water are all "dissolved solids". I read a Randy Holmes-Farley article a while back that discussed what that number is, but cannot remember it.

 

[Kalen]

Alright. I did skim through it but nothing really stood out maybe I need to read it. I wish his stuff was available in zip file to download and print. But it is what it is. Around six I'm getting my rodi unit and skimmer. Can't wait. Got a great deal on them lol

 

[Kalen]

Picked my rodi system up last night from epic oceans. Can't wait to set it up and use it. Will answered all my questions and then some about my current build as well as about the rodi unit.


I am planning on adding a tds meter to the unit as well as a top off sensor.

 

[Kalen]

I finally got the piece I needed to hook up my rodi system to my kitchen faucet. I also made my first four gallon of rodi water.

 

[Kalen]

So do I was able to finally install my tds meter on my spectrapure max cap 90 gpd. It didn't come with one So I had to order one. I install one line on the main water line and the second line I hooked up to output product line.

My in is 847
My out is 0
Psi is 63

I was going to try to hard plumb the unit but wasn't able to find the pieces that I needed. I knew what I wanted to do but when I bought everything it just didn't work.

I also was going to install the unit out by my washer and dry. However when I got the unit I was told to keep it in a cool place and well out by my washer and dry is anything but cool. The laundry room don't have central air. It was a addition to the house before I bought it and don't plan on putting air in the laundry room either. So I guess I'm going to continue to hook it up to my faucet.

Unless some one has any ideas...

 

[AZBigJohn]

Spectrapure said that warmth was not a huge issue. Mine is in my laundry room, and it, too, is not air conditioned. I just have frozen jugs of RODI water I toss in the water barrels before water changes. I know several people who have their units outside, or in their garages, without significant reduction in membrane life.

I gave up on hard plumbing myself. I just used a plastic "Y-type" connector (like for an outside faucet) and attached it to my cold water line behind my washer.

Do you use a booster? 63 PSI is pretty good for from the faucet water pressure...

 

[Kalen]

Spectrapure said that warmth was not a huge issue. Mine is in my laundry room, and it, too, is not air conditioned. I just have frozen jugs of RODI water I toss in the water barrels before water changes. I know several people who have their units outside, or in their garages, without significant reduction in membrane life.

I gave up on hard plumbing myself. I just used a plastic "Y-type" connector (like for an outside faucet) and attached it to my cold water line behind my washer.

Do you use a booster? 63 PSI is pretty good for from the faucet water pressure...

Oh okay well that helps me out with what to do. And no I don't use a booster pump. That is straight out of the faucet.

I've been racking my brain on where to put the unit and every place I wanted to put it just would not work from the bath room to in the kitchen. Its frustrating try to make things easy on how we maintain our tanks and some times I can not be avoided.

I've spent so much money on getting this unit to operate the way I want. The unit cost me $100.00. No auto or manual flush or tds meter so I had to invest more money for those however its all about who you know. Tds meter cost me $15.00. I made my own manual flush and between fitting I think I've put in another $80 or $90. I tapped in to my line right after my to membrane so I could fill up 5 gal water hugs for my water cooler. So a few tees and the shut off valves. Dang just thinking about it is a little upsetting lol. Sorry for ranting...