180 build from scratch!
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michika
red headed step child
So the 180g is going to hang out for a little while longer as a fishless wonder. While everything reads fine, I don't feel find about putting anything in it. Nitrates are a bit high, 30ppm if I remember correctly.
I am also worried that the beneficial bacteria was killed off and there is nothing in the tank to properly re-seed everything. I am picking up, or rather Kevin is picking up, some more this weekend.
I am also worried that the beneficial bacteria was killed off and there is nothing in the tank to properly re-seed everything. I am picking up, or rather Kevin is picking up, some more this weekend.
michika
red headed step child
I tested the tank this afternoon/evening and we are at the tail end of the cycle. I guess the tank wasn't strong enough to recover without a full cycle. I still plan to add more live rock in the next couple of weeks, just in case. Nitrates have dropped, and the ammonia has dropped as well.
Right now the tank is running without kalk. or Ca. reactors, mostly because we are afraid of overloading the circuit in the basement. The lighting is solely T5s, as there is no point in running the MHs. I am also only running a seio and koralia 1 power head, again because of fears of overloading the circuit.
pH: 8.02
SG: 1.025
ORP: 268 (low)
PO4: 0.13
Ammonia: Less then 0.50, but more then 0.25
Nitrate: Less then 0.5 via Elos test kit
Nitrite:0
We've also drawn out the first of a few options for our big system in tape in the basement. If we go with a cube shape, the best we can do is looking like 5ftx5ftx2ft, which is less then 500g. I can't say I'm happy with that size. I think the next step is to probably look at an L-shape system. The problem we are having is balancing the space the tank would need vs. the living space required to actually use our basement.
I've lost my camera USB cord, so I can't share all the photos I have with you.
Right now the tank is running without kalk. or Ca. reactors, mostly because we are afraid of overloading the circuit in the basement. The lighting is solely T5s, as there is no point in running the MHs. I am also only running a seio and koralia 1 power head, again because of fears of overloading the circuit.
pH: 8.02
SG: 1.025
ORP: 268 (low)
PO4: 0.13
Ammonia: Less then 0.50, but more then 0.25
Nitrate: Less then 0.5 via Elos test kit
Nitrite:0
We've also drawn out the first of a few options for our big system in tape in the basement. If we go with a cube shape, the best we can do is looking like 5ftx5ftx2ft, which is less then 500g. I can't say I'm happy with that size. I think the next step is to probably look at an L-shape system. The problem we are having is balancing the space the tank would need vs. the living space required to actually use our basement.
I've lost my camera USB cord, so I can't share all the photos I have with you.
michika
red headed step child
I think we might be able to swing 5 deep, but there would be a lot of swimming involved. Definitely something I never even thought to explore. I always limit myself based on how far I can stick my arm in a tank. Its definitely worth a look though. Thats 935g, which is quite nice. I would assume I would need 1000w MHs to light it.
jnarowe
New member
Just depends on what you want to keep. I would envision a "zero" bottom tank where you couldn't really see the bottom or lower half of th erock structure. In fact the rock would be on fiberglass rod or carbon fiber legs so there would be no detritus trapped under it. Picture wild reefs shots you have seen and recreate one. Perhaps a reef wall, a lagoon, etc.
Place SPS up high, LPS/Zoanthids low. Allow lots of room for fish to go under and around the rockwork. When they disappear and come out somewhere else, it really adds to the reef illusion.
This is how I am building my next tank. You can limit the "swimming" by limiting the size of the viewing pane to the upper part, and that will also add to the illusion. Like looking out a submarine window into the depths of a wild reef.
You could also go glass all the way to the floor but that would add a lot of maintenance to the tank.
Just something to ponder.
Place SPS up high, LPS/Zoanthids low. Allow lots of room for fish to go under and around the rockwork. When they disappear and come out somewhere else, it really adds to the reef illusion.
This is how I am building my next tank. You can limit the "swimming" by limiting the size of the viewing pane to the upper part, and that will also add to the illusion. Like looking out a submarine window into the depths of a wild reef.
You could also go glass all the way to the floor but that would add a lot of maintenance to the tank.
Just something to ponder.
michika
red headed step child
I really do like the idea of a "zero" bottom tank. I think I'll add something to represent a deeper depth, and think on it for the week. I do definitely want to do a few pillars with large outcroppings under which I can place suncorals.
There are two things I need think about if we go with that kind of tank; a pegging type system for SPS, some type of "shelf" for my clams.
There are two things I need think about if we go with that kind of tank; a pegging type system for SPS, some type of "shelf" for my clams.
michika
red headed step child
You can click the link to see where my surviving livestock is staying for the time being. I am really happy to have such great friends. I also really miss my clams now.
After I made my last post last night I pulled out a few salt barrels and made a 4ish food deep "tank" to get an idea of the size and depth I would be working with. I am growing kind of fond of the idea, and just need to work out how I would be able to keep my giant clam collection with the "zero" bottom style tank.
I think I need to sit down and really decide what livestock I feel I really want to have. This time instead of assuming 1000g, I am going to try and plan for 500g, and if I have more space great, if not, so be it. I also have to account for the fact that my original stocking list assumed a long shallow tank, which would allow for a lot of length to swim.
So far I will keep my current livestock;
-sailfin tang
-purple tang
-scopas tang
-mata tang (being held for me)
-yellow damsel
-clams
I want my tank to be SPS & clam dominated and that is a for sure thing.
I think I want;
- pair of mandarins
- sixline or another similar wrasse
- pair? of gobies
- imperator/emporer angel
- regal angel
- I also have a tang wishlist (regal, kole or tomini, orange shoulder, atlantic blue, black tang, yellows?) which I will have slim down.
Anyone have any ideas how I can keep a large amount of clams with a "zero" bottom tank?
After I made my last post last night I pulled out a few salt barrels and made a 4ish food deep "tank" to get an idea of the size and depth I would be working with. I am growing kind of fond of the idea, and just need to work out how I would be able to keep my giant clam collection with the "zero" bottom style tank.
I think I need to sit down and really decide what livestock I feel I really want to have. This time instead of assuming 1000g, I am going to try and plan for 500g, and if I have more space great, if not, so be it. I also have to account for the fact that my original stocking list assumed a long shallow tank, which would allow for a lot of length to swim.
So far I will keep my current livestock;
-sailfin tang
-purple tang
-scopas tang
-mata tang (being held for me)
-yellow damsel
-clams
I want my tank to be SPS & clam dominated and that is a for sure thing.
I think I want;
- pair of mandarins
- sixline or another similar wrasse
- pair? of gobies
- imperator/emporer angel
- regal angel
- I also have a tang wishlist (regal, kole or tomini, orange shoulder, atlantic blue, black tang, yellows?) which I will have slim down.
Anyone have any ideas how I can keep a large amount of clams with a "zero" bottom tank?
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psteeleb
Team RC
It's definitely worth going with a pegging system up front. I just spent the past few months (not all at once) pulling rocks and drilling them and it's a mess. So if you can drill your base rock or live rock as you are setting up your aquascape, definitely try to work it into the plan.
I like the macro base rock I got, I got some nice shelves. It took a little longer to get but he gave me pretty much exactly what I requested and then some. The pieces where a little large but easy to drill and control a break point. The smaller pieces are perfect for mounted pegs and frags to.
michika
red headed step child
I was thinking I would half peg, half glue SPS. I would probably have a dedicated frag system that runs inline to grow out some smaller pieces before they enter into the display.
What did you end up drilling with? Just a bit to match frag plugs with stems on them? I think I would end up having to make my own plugs to save on some cust, but its certainly a simple solution.
What did you end up drilling with? Just a bit to match frag plugs with stems on them? I think I would end up having to make my own plugs to save on some cust, but its certainly a simple solution.
psteeleb
Team RC
I would drill a small rock piece with a 3/16" masonary bit and then super glue in a piece of 3/16" rigid air tubing into it. This becomes my frag base.
On the small rock I would go ahead and drill several holes just in case as the coral grew to a point where I would want to reposition it. This way I had options on the coral mount to peg it straight up or off to a side, depending on the hole location on the base rock.
On the live rock I just drilled hundreds of 3/16" holes all over the place to give me options.
michika
red headed step child
I just thought of a couple things to consider;
1) How do you get fallen CUC members back up where they are needed? I don't think crabs can climb PVC structures
2) Fallen SPS
3) Unfortunately corpse removal has to be considered
4) I have to move a few sizes up in glass to account for the extra height, so more money towards glass
1) How do you get fallen CUC members back up where they are needed? I don't think crabs can climb PVC structures
2) Fallen SPS
3) Unfortunately corpse removal has to be considered
4) I have to move a few sizes up in glass to account for the extra height, so more money towards glass
michika
red headed step child
That is my biggest pet peeve is loosing livestock due to it falling and becoming inaccessible. If I could just get away with a nice pair of long tongs I would, but things like CU members are hard to catch/move.
I think I might have a couple of ideas for maintaining clams; 1) an acrylic/glass shelf that spans one side of the tank. It would contain a well hidden lip that would allow sand to be kept on the shelf. Then I could put my clams down without any worry. 2) Which is a bit of an alternative, is to just made lots of rock shelfs that the clams that live on. However the catch here is accounting for how much a clam will grow over time and making sure not to place any other clams close to it.
I have been drawing out ideas this morning as they come to me, thinking how I can encorporate that drop-off type look, with a little bit of a sandy bottom,
I think I might have a couple of ideas for maintaining clams; 1) an acrylic/glass shelf that spans one side of the tank. It would contain a well hidden lip that would allow sand to be kept on the shelf. Then I could put my clams down without any worry. 2) Which is a bit of an alternative, is to just made lots of rock shelfs that the clams that live on. However the catch here is accounting for how much a clam will grow over time and making sure not to place any other clams close to it.
I have been drawing out ideas this morning as they come to me, thinking how I can encorporate that drop-off type look, with a little bit of a sandy bottom,
jnarowe
New member
can't the clams go into the rock? what about concealing a 4 - 6" deep bed within the rock? or even doing some kind of off-center horshoe lagoon with drop-offs on either side...or a half horseshoe?
crabs? many crabs can climb right up a tank wall. but the whole point of the deep tank is that you can get in and pick up fallen stuff. I would definitely peg corals rather than glue. This way if they don't do well in a certain spot, you can move them before they encrust quite easily.
crabs? many crabs can climb right up a tank wall. but the whole point of the deep tank is that you can get in and pick up fallen stuff. I would definitely peg corals rather than glue. This way if they don't do well in a certain spot, you can move them before they encrust quite easily.
michika
red headed step child
Yes, some clams can stay on the rock, but I think you under estimate my love of clams. I seriously do plan to have a field of clams.
I do think I figured it out though. I am going to see if my scanner survived the move and post up some sketches I've been messing around with at work. If not maybe I can take a photo and buy a new cord tonight for my camera.
I do think I figured it out though. I am going to see if my scanner survived the move and post up some sketches I've been messing around with at work. If not maybe I can take a photo and buy a new cord tonight for my camera.
michika
red headed step child
Jnarowe, I owe you a hug!
I am about 80% sure I am going to go with a "zero" bottom tank. I think the dimensions are going to be no deeper then 4ft, 5". I think I will go for 6ft-8ft wide by 4ft deep, or 5ft by 5ft I did draw out a potential aquascape for a rectangle though. I solved the clam problem I mentioned before.
Next up is to firm up the positioning of the tank, and the tank room. We have that telepost to worry about, and instead of destroying our basement to move it, we have decided to place the tank in a way that can been, and the post can be nicely skinned.
I am not sure if this tank will still be mostly plywood or not. I am dying to find my camera cord so I can show the creative building with boxes that I've been doing in the basement. If the neighbor didn't think I was crazy before, they definitely do think so now!
I am about 80% sure I am going to go with a "zero" bottom tank. I think the dimensions are going to be no deeper then 4ft, 5". I think I will go for 6ft-8ft wide by 4ft deep, or 5ft by 5ft I did draw out a potential aquascape for a rectangle though. I solved the clam problem I mentioned before.
Next up is to firm up the positioning of the tank, and the tank room. We have that telepost to worry about, and instead of destroying our basement to move it, we have decided to place the tank in a way that can been, and the post can be nicely skinned.
I am not sure if this tank will still be mostly plywood or not. I am dying to find my camera cord so I can show the creative building with boxes that I've been doing in the basement. If the neighbor didn't think I was crazy before, they definitely do think so now!
jnarowe
New member
When you decide about tank material, shoot me a PM.
I do want to sound a bit of a warning on the drilling rock with holes. I would just suggest that if you do go this route for a pegging system, keep in mind that corals will grow right over holes and trap detritus, animals etc.
So what has happened on a couple occassions in my system, is that whatever was inside the hole decomposed and killed the coral from the inside out. I realize there are many natural holes in rock, so it can happen at any time, but definitely something to consider.
I do want to sound a bit of a warning on the drilling rock with holes. I would just suggest that if you do go this route for a pegging system, keep in mind that corals will grow right over holes and trap detritus, animals etc.
So what has happened on a couple occassions in my system, is that whatever was inside the hole decomposed and killed the coral from the inside out. I realize there are many natural holes in rock, so it can happen at any time, but definitely something to consider.
michika
red headed step child
Ewww! I never even thought of that.
Well with the potential aquascape I am hoping for has 4 pillar/piles of rocks. I am thinking of just stacking & gluing most of them. I need to figure out how to make sturdy long lasting PVC structures to hold up the base of most of these pillars, along with the shelf I want to put in the tank for a mini sand bed.
For flow I am thinking some Ocean Motions in 4 and or 8-ways for returns. I still want a few vortech's for emergency back up, and for additional flow. Lighting will probably be MH spot lighting on the rocks and T5 supplements elsewhere.
Well with the potential aquascape I am hoping for has 4 pillar/piles of rocks. I am thinking of just stacking & gluing most of them. I need to figure out how to make sturdy long lasting PVC structures to hold up the base of most of these pillars, along with the shelf I want to put in the tank for a mini sand bed.
For flow I am thinking some Ocean Motions in 4 and or 8-ways for returns. I still want a few vortech's for emergency back up, and for additional flow. Lighting will probably be MH spot lighting on the rocks and T5 supplements elsewhere.
erics3000
Active member
Drilling them for acrylic or fiberglass to rods for extra strength worked out real good for me. I also loved the pond foam trick for my overflows. I wish I did this to all my rocks. less chances of things moving around and dropping off.
I love my OM4 and am dying to get a few vortech's myself. I think you said a while back you were going with some wave boxes. I love how they work. At least you are taking time to plan everything out.
I am sure you have learned a lot from all your tanks for the new project. I have learned a lot for my next upgrade. Next time I will make sure I do all my aquascape before I make my livestock transfer, and really make sure there is enough room to do maintance in my tanks. I really want to plan so I can vacume the sand easy. sand is PITA but I just cant seam to get use to at tank with out. I am always trying to think of reducing electric and I think the solar tubes or natural lighting is must if I can squeeze it in on my next tank. J has some cool ideas on his new tank for the bottom. I also learned that I want at least 48 wide and a minimum 30 tall so I can have some tall structures and room for the tangs to run the top of the tank at full speed.
Good luck..I look forward to your plans..
I love my OM4 and am dying to get a few vortech's myself. I think you said a while back you were going with some wave boxes. I love how they work. At least you are taking time to plan everything out.
I am sure you have learned a lot from all your tanks for the new project. I have learned a lot for my next upgrade. Next time I will make sure I do all my aquascape before I make my livestock transfer, and really make sure there is enough room to do maintance in my tanks. I really want to plan so I can vacume the sand easy. sand is PITA but I just cant seam to get use to at tank with out. I am always trying to think of reducing electric and I think the solar tubes or natural lighting is must if I can squeeze it in on my next tank. J has some cool ideas on his new tank for the bottom. I also learned that I want at least 48 wide and a minimum 30 tall so I can have some tall structures and room for the tangs to run the top of the tank at full speed.
Good luck..I look forward to your plans..
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