180 gallon sump

That can be easily addressed via drilling a tiny hole at the top of the return to break the siphon.

Yeah that could work. Everytime I tried that I had water spaying out of the hole when the return pump was on. I guess I am doing something wrong maybe drilling a little too high. They could also put a check valve in the line and the problem is solved.

Just something for them to think about. I have seen people try to use 10 gallon sumps on a 180 and it got ugly.
 
I'd guess that the 180 would have the same megaflows you have, but it would have a recommended turnover that's higher. It also has a bigger footprint, so we can conservatively say 15 gallons will go into the 40 when the pumps are turned off. The 40 breeder is 16" high, so we're talking about being only able to fill it up halfway. Basically it would be limited to a Skimmer chamber or a Refugium, or a space saving skimmer with a tiny refugium. For example a SWC 230 requires 14" so at least 18" chamber. 10" for the return + baffles, leaving room for an 8" refugium.
 
Let's not forget Murphy's Law either. The one time the power goes off is the same time you have a snail or salt creep on the anti-siphon hole or the check valve doesn't work....

Result? water everywhere.

I'm in the same boat as Tom here, I would personally use a 75g minimum, and set it so the outputs themselves end up being the siphon break. I like to take all the variables out of the equation.

I've seen people use a 40B before, and it does work, but the fuge size is so small that it doesn't do much really.
 
This just isn't one of those hobbies where going on the smaller side will be good in the long run. Figure out what you need, then double it.
 
I forgot about Murphy.....haven't seen that kid in years =).

If you have salt creep that bad, you need to get outta the hobby. And I personally let my kid flush every snail that "gets outta jail" =). J/K

He's gonna be fine. All you folks make good points, but the OP's sump will work. And it will be efficient enough to handle the tank, as long as the skimmer is good. With 18x18x36ish, I'm sure he can find a great skimmer. I guess it all depends on pluming and siphon breaks. However I would never run a return that is submerged totally.

People seem to forget those who run successful tanks with no sumps. I have a 120g running on 7 years.....HOB skimmer and fuge. Granted no overflow issues, but the tank is reproducing coral and sustaining fish life.
 
I forgot about Murphy.....haven't seen that kid in years =).

If you have salt creep that bad, you need to get outta the hobby. And I personally let my kid flush every snail that "gets outta jail" =). J/K

He's gonna be fine. All you folks make good points, but the OP's sump will work. And it will be efficient enough to handle the tank, as long as the skimmer is good. With 18x18x36ish, I'm sure he can find a great skimmer. I guess it all depends on pluming and siphon breaks. However I would never run a return that is submerged totally.

People seem to forget those who run successful tanks with no sumps. I have a 120g running on 7 years.....HOB skimmer and fuge. Granted no overflow issues, but the tank is reproducing coral and sustaining fish life.
 
The Skimmer and the Refugium perform different functions. A skimmer will take out detritus before it breaks down, Refugium takes it out after it breaks down.
 
And your point is? If you dont do water changes, your never gonna keep NitrAtes down unless 1) the LR is kickin a$$, 2) u have a killer deep sand bed, 3) DONT OVERFEED, 4) good skimmer, 5) good fuge 6) reactors......need I go on?. I'm sorry but U can maintain a totally healthy reef without any stated above. It justs takes work and salt.

The OP had a Q about his sump size. I think a 40 breeder will be OK for him. We need to know how it is plumbed/pumped. Period. If anyone relies on their fuge getting what the skimmer didn't get out, someone is betting on cruise control........Never works. If it does........you have more room in the sump/fuge then main display. I'm poor and cant afford that =).

But heck ....I'm just an old FW guy
 
And your point is? If you dont do water changes, your never gonna keep NitrAtes down unless 1) the LR is kickin a$$, 2) u have a killer deep sand bed, 3) DONT OVERFEED, 4) good skimmer, 5) good fuge 6) reactors......need I go on?. I'm sorry but U can maintain a totally healthy reef without any stated above. It justs takes work and salt.

The OP had a Q about his sump size. I think a 40 breeder will be OK for him. We need to know how it is plumbed/pumped. Period. If anyone relies on their fuge getting what the skimmer didn't get out, someone is betting on cruise control........Never works. If it does........you have more room in the sump/fuge then main display. I'm poor and cant afford that =).

But heck ....I'm just an old FW guy

The fish are crapping in the water not a weekly schedule, but everyday. Also, have you ever done a large water change on a 180? Like I said, a fuge and the Skimmer do different things. Even the best Skimmer will reduce the waste by at most 35% or so. The rest has to be consumed by bacteria, algae, or just stay in the water. A Skimmer isn't some magic piece of equipment which will run around after the fish with a poop scooper.
 
All good, I throw the towel in. I dont know his fish stock, but if I had to do more then 5-10% weekly/biweekly, I guess I would be outta my mind.

BUT your scenario has him stocked to the gill? He hasen't even stocked his tank yet. *** man..... Theres too many peeps on this site that say no......its just a sump.........be happy he is running one. How bout my 120 with a large HOB cpr refuge and a HOB CNC 125 skimmer. Tank can never make it....right?

Thats the point......HE CAN do it. IT will work and he will make it work.

I'm sorry OP, but your idea will work. If you need ideas for an algea scrubber, give me a PM. Please disregard my statements if you have a drilled tank/closed loop. Your 180 will be fine if your return lines are outta water before entering the tank(inside). Dont let anyone here talk u into more equipment then u need.

BTW, refugiums aren't magic either. I hope cheato is the magic plant, or everyone is in trouble. Mangroves are nice, he has the stand......but I'm not a magician. Bottom line is everyone has opinions.
 
I'm sorry OP, but your idea will work. If you need ideas for an algea scrubber, give me a PM. Please disregard my statements if you have a drilled tank/closed loop. Your 180 will be fine if your return lines are outta water before entering the tank(inside). Dont let anyone here talk u into more equipment then u need.

BTW, refugiums aren't magic either. I hope cheato is the magic plant, or everyone is in trouble. Mangroves are nice, he has the stand......but I'm not a magician. Bottom line is everyone has opinions.

Of course his idea WILL work, but it also wont make things the easiest on him. That's all Ive said. Ive said a zillion times on these forums also that the best thing you can do for your tank is frequent, decent sized water changes.

Nobody is trying to talk him into equipment he "doesn't need" that I'm seeing, he's already going to do a sump, all we're saying is a 75g will allow for more room for overflow and also larger chambers which should also help in other areas....

There's a million ways to skin a cat in this hobby as has been mentioned. After seeing a 180 with a 40B sump, I went with a 75g on my old 180 and was MORE than happy I did so.
 
All good, I throw the towel in. I dont know his fish stock, but if I had to do more then 5-10% weekly/biweekly, I guess I would be outta my mind.

BUT your scenario has him stocked to the gill? He hasen't even stocked his tank yet. *** man..... Theres too many peeps on this site that say no......its just a sump.........be happy he is running one. How bout my 120 with a large HOB cpr refuge and a HOB CNC 125 skimmer. Tank can never make it....right?

Thats the point......HE CAN do it. IT will work and he will make it work.

I'm sorry OP, but your idea will work. If you need ideas for an algea scrubber, give me a PM. Please disregard my statements if you have a drilled tank/closed loop. Your 180 will be fine if your return lines are outta water before entering the tank(inside). Dont let anyone here talk u into more equipment then u need.

BTW, refugiums aren't magic either. I hope cheato is the magic plant, or everyone is in trouble. Mangroves are nice, he has the stand......but I'm not a magician. Bottom line is everyone has opinions.

There are opinions, and there are scientific facts. Chaeto for example is scientifically proven to be a better fit for sucking nutrients out of water. That said, there was a large TOTM without a fuge at all, but it did use a carbon source to fuel bacteria growth.
 
Got the tank and stand into its positions today. Going to add pictures to my build thread in a bit. Read all the comments and taken them all in. There's no 2 ways about it now though, I have to make a 40B work, not only have I now bought it, but having put it under the stand and seen all the extra room I have to play with, it just looks great, I have to go down this path. I really appreciate your comments though, and have taken them on board, but its just too late to change now.

Would love to hear from people who think it can be done, and have advice to offer.

The equipment I plan on using are a Reeflo Dart/Snapper pump, and plan on using a Vertex 200 skimmer which has a footprint of 10x18, the system is not going to see water for another 3-4 months, so I have plenty of time to plan it all out and make sure I get it set up right.

As for overflow, I was looking at the Durso Standpipe, but I'm now leaning to the Herbie after seeing so many recommendation's.

No doubt, the run off water from the DT flooding the sump is scaring me a bit, but I'm sure with proper planning I can account for it and prevent it.

Luckily, the RedGard worked, the floor of the stand, now all sealed will hold around 5 gallons of water with no leak, tested it before I brought the stand inside. Now I want that to be the first and last time it sees water! :)
 
Questions I have now.

1. If I go with the Herbie style, and run the Return up and over the backside of the tank, can I still prevent a back siphon?

2. I'm leaning to putting the fuge on the right and the skimmer on the left, return middle. However, if its like this, 50% of the water would only get skimmed and 50% would only go into the fuge? Is that acceptable?

3. I read elsewhere that you can use that setup however run both overflows into the skimmer chamber, and have a ball valve to send some water back from the return to the fuge? Is that a better method

4. Is it better to just scrap that idea and stick to the Skimmer>Fuge>Return layout?

5. Very Simple, how far from the wall is it recommended to place the tank? anyone with a 180 fancy measuring there's, mine seems far from the wall right now, but want to leave room to get back there when/if I plumb the return up and over the back. Want to have an idea how close to put it prior to eventually filling.

Thanks. Would be awesome to hear some feedback on the specific questions. Thanks
 
Its 72x24x24, stand is about 36" tall, and the canopy is about 12" tall, so the things stand tall.
 
Back
Top