180 gallon tank build
- Thread starter magdelan
- Start date
magdelan
Fish?
I did a little wiring today. I wired the outlets in the basement for the pump, skimmer, 2 heaters, and a light for the refugium.
Here is the breaker box with the two junction boxes to the left. The top box is the 20amp which is going to be wired upstairs for the lights and powerheads. The bottom box is the 15amp which I wired tonight.
Here are the outlets. The one on the back of the stand will be for the pump. The other two will be for the heaters, skimmer and the fuge light.
This is the sump with the added 1/4" think glass baffel. I used glass to glass silicone to secure it. You can also see the 2" hole that I cut in the return section of the sump. It is awaiting a bulkhead that should be in tomorrow.
Last, this is a view of the top left side of the sump stand. As you can see, the 10g is on the left which will be the dsb and the 30g is on the right which will be the fuge.
I'll add more pictures after I do the upstairs wiring.
Here is the breaker box with the two junction boxes to the left. The top box is the 20amp which is going to be wired upstairs for the lights and powerheads. The bottom box is the 15amp which I wired tonight.
Here are the outlets. The one on the back of the stand will be for the pump. The other two will be for the heaters, skimmer and the fuge light.
This is the sump with the added 1/4" think glass baffel. I used glass to glass silicone to secure it. You can also see the 2" hole that I cut in the return section of the sump. It is awaiting a bulkhead that should be in tomorrow.
Last, this is a view of the top left side of the sump stand. As you can see, the 10g is on the left which will be the dsb and the 30g is on the right which will be the fuge.
I'll add more pictures after I do the upstairs wiring.
Last edited:
SkiFletch
New member
Looks nice Mike.
One word of caution with the 10g... If you are going to drill it, make sure you do that one last so you already have a few holes under your belt. 10g tanks (and smaller) are prone to cracking both when drilling and when actually affixing the bulkhead. Their glass is just so flimsy it doesn't leave much room for error if you know what I mean. Good thing they're cheap
One word of caution with the 10g... If you are going to drill it, make sure you do that one last so you already have a few holes under your belt. 10g tanks (and smaller) are prone to cracking both when drilling and when actually affixing the bulkhead. Their glass is just so flimsy it doesn't leave much room for error if you know what I mean. Good thing they're cheap
magdelan
Fish?
I have decided to eliminate the dsb all together. With a mean skimmer like the ASM G4x, I don;t think that I will have to worry about nitrates too much 
.
I am really frusturated right now. Using a foot long boaring drill bit, I drilled throught the back of my stand and through the floor so that I could bring the wire up. Well, after going through the floor, I can't find where it came out. I have one room in the basement that is finished with a drywall ceiling, but if my trajectory was right, the drill bit should have come through in the next room (just above the sump). Here is a picture of the hole in the stand...
I am going to need a long skewer or something to figure out where it is.
.I am really frusturated right now. Using a foot long boaring drill bit, I drilled throught the back of my stand and through the floor so that I could bring the wire up. Well, after going through the floor, I can't find where it came out. I have one room in the basement that is finished with a drywall ceiling, but if my trajectory was right, the drill bit should have come through in the next room (just above the sump). Here is a picture of the hole in the stand...
I am going to need a long skewer or something to figure out where it is.
Conesus_Kid
Premium Member
Do you have an electrician's "fish tape"?
They're pretty cheap and perfect for a job like this.
They're pretty cheap and perfect for a job like this.
Conesus_Kid
Premium Member
block head
New member
wire coat hanger might do it for u
magdelan
Fish?
I see what you are talking about, but I feel that might be too flimsy for the job.
A coat hanger also might be too flimsy. Good ideas though.
I need something 2 feet long that is about 1/2" in diameter with a spike on the end of it so that I can punch through the floor or basement ceiling.
frankandmaura
New member
How about buying a wood dowel, drill a hole at the end and glue in a nail or some other sharp object. You can get the wood dowels at Lowes or hobby shops...
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
magdelan
Fish?
I realized that I was running into a headder (sp). So, I redirrected through the wall, into the kitchen and behind the stove. Then I came up from the basement just under the stove and ran the wire from there into the tank stand. The wiring is now done!!! I just need to drill a few holes in the back of the stand to run the conective wires into the stand to connect to the ballasts. Here are a few pictures of tonights endevour.
I know....I need to raise the ballasts off of the ground.
I know....I need to raise the ballasts off of the ground.
magdelan
Fish?
I noticed earlier today that when looking at the side of the tank where it meets the stand, there is a very small space between the tank and stand...maybe about 1/8-1/16 of an inch. Is this something that I need to worry about or should I have some styrofoam cut to fit under the tank?
You can see the light showing through the space in this picture.
You can see the light showing through the space in this picture.
magdelan
Fish?
I'm happy to hear this because having styro cut would just be one more thing to do!!
Now, on to the next question...
I need to drill my fuge tomorrow. The fuge will be above the sump being fed from a Tee in the return line. It will then drain via gravity back to the sump. Q: Where do i drill the holes??? Do i want the inlet higher than the drain or the same height? It's a 30g (15" tall) so I thought that I would drill around 2/3 to 3/4 up? Back to the main question...should they be the same height or should one be higher or lower than the other?
Also, I bought the cable to hang my light. How much space between the light and the tank should there be? Once I clamp the cable together, there is no moving it, so i want to do it right the FIRST time.
Thanks, Mike
Now, on to the next question...
I need to drill my fuge tomorrow. The fuge will be above the sump being fed from a Tee in the return line. It will then drain via gravity back to the sump. Q: Where do i drill the holes??? Do i want the inlet higher than the drain or the same height? It's a 30g (15" tall) so I thought that I would drill around 2/3 to 3/4 up? Back to the main question...should they be the same height or should one be higher or lower than the other?
Also, I bought the cable to hang my light. How much space between the light and the tank should there be? Once I clamp the cable together, there is no moving it, so i want to do it right the FIRST time.
Thanks, Mike
SkiFletch
New member
If you're using a weir (internal box), the drain height is governed by the size of the box that you build (don't forget an internal right angle to prevent slurping). The return fitting should be as close to the water level as you can to prevent back-flowing in the case of a power outage.
Make sense?
Make sense?
