180 gallon tank build

Don't get me wrong, It's a beautiful light. I'm just mainly bummed about the cords. The place where I got it from is contacting Hamilton tomorrow to see what we can do. If I need to, I'll be happy to send the fixture back to get taken care of. This light is like a car. I'm gonna be with it for a long time so it should be what I want....you know?
 
I agree. I can't figure out why they put the cords on the left. Mine are on the right on both fixtures I have. They shuld have been able to follow your specification. I know I told you I liked my hamilton lights and probably should have said something about the fan noise but honestly my coralife pc unit is just as loud and those fans are not as strong. I hope you get it rigged up the way you wan't it and enjoy it as much as I do mine.It's expensive and if your likeme you wan't all of the reef system to be perfect and pleasing.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12289198#post12289198 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SkiFletch
About the wall... I meant the wall behind the tank. Where are you gonna fit your return pipes? ;)

I never ended up drilling the back of the tank if this is what you are refering to. So all of the plumbing will be coming and going from underneath the stand.
 
I have a question regarding my sump. After the water is pumped out of the return section and begins it's acent, it will Tee off to a DSB and the refugium. First, the 30g fuge will have a 1" inlet and the 10g DSB will have a 3/4" inlet. The 10g dsb will exit through a 1" outlet into a 1" input to the 30g fuge. The 30g fuge will empty through a 1" output back to the sump.

Are those bulkhead sizes okay?

Now for the main question, should I return the water to the return section just after the baffel (located at center) or should I add another baffel and return it inbetween the baffels?
 
I sold my Hamilton VHO's

IMG_1921.jpg


And replaced them with URI's

IMG_1985.jpg


IMG_1984.jpg


I'm very happy with my purchase!!!!

Now I just need some water ;)
 
Thanks for sharing that. I use the uri since when I ordered the light they did not ship the hamilton bulbs and I bought the uris at the lfs.
Didn't thik there would be that much difference.
 
I think I'm just over the 4k mark :eek1: :crazy1: :eek2:


Here's a question that I have been meaning to ask... After the water leaves the return section of the sump and begins it's upward ascent, it will Tee off to feed the 10g dsb and the 30g fuge (they are side by side). The water will enter the 10g via a 3/4" bulkhead and the water will enter the 30g via a 1" bulkhead. At the other end of the 10g, it will drain through a 1" bulkhead to the 30g through another 1" bulkhead. (question coming up) Now, after the water drains from the 30g fuge through a 1" bulkhead, it will return to the return section of my sump (there is a baffel dead center). Will this be ok or will I need to add a second baffel so that the water can drain between the two baffels? I just don't want a micro bubble problem if I can avoid it now.

Thanks, mike
 
Last edited:
looking good.
I don't think anybody can say for sure that you will or won't have a problem with microbubbles- this is something that you're going to have to find out for yourself.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12360891#post12360891 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Gary Majchrzak
looking good.
I don't think anybody can say for sure that you will or won't have a problem with microbubbles- this is something that you're going to have to find out for yourself.

oh... :worried:
 
Very fun build thread.

I, too, like the URI lights.

And the jolly jumper, about the most important piece of equipment shown. :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12362500#post12362500 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Kent E
Very fun build thread.

I, too, like the URI lights.

And the jolly jumper, about the most important piece of equipment shown. :)

You've got that right!!! ;)

Thanks for the kind words too.
 
Agree with Gary, can't say 100% that it will work (need to try it yourself), but i will say it's likely you willl NOT have problems with bubbles doing it this way. I assume you'll have ball valves on all your Teed off zones before their tanks to control waterflow?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12370879#post12370879 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SkiFletch
Agree with Gary, can't say 100% that it will work (need to try it yourself), but i will say it's likely you willl NOT have problems with bubbles doing it this way. I assume you'll have ball valves on all your Teed off zones before their tanks to control waterflow?

Yes, the 10g and the 30g will both have ball valves before them. The pump will also have a union before and after. Will I also, need a ball valve before AND after? If my scanner was wroking propperly, I could show a picture. I'll work on that.
 
You should use True union ball valves on either side of the pump. That way when you need to service the pump, you shutoff the pump, close the valves, turn the unions, and pop it right out. The true union valves save a lot of space as the union is incorporated directly into the valve. Trust me, you'll love the convenience :)
 
Where can I find these? I looked for them at Home Depot and when I couldn't find them I asked someone. After I asked, the person looked at me like I had lobsters crawling out of my ears. I'm going to try Lowes tomorrow.

Also, I will be wiring my outlets tomorrow. Just to refresh everyone, I will be running a 20amp circuit upstairs to run the lights and three Koralia Hydor 4's. The other curcuit is a 15amp and will be iin the basement to run the skimmer, two heaters, lights for the fuge and the pump. This is the power strip/timer that I will be using for my lights. I'm pretty excited about it!!!
 
There are internet suppliers. You can find the ball valves and unions separately at HD or Lowes but then you have to glue them together usig pieces of pipe to connect them.
 
Back
Top