210 Upgrade Build with LED Build

[nuclearheli]

Ok so today we finished the plumbing on the tank. Isolated the returns and drains and filled the tank with tap water to test for leaks before starting rock work.

Getting prepared. Just in case I have my pool cover pump standing by.

Plumbing done, ready for testing.

Filling, half way, no leaks everything checks out ok.

Filled about 80% no leaks and level tank.

Tank full, no issues, no leaks, no problems with the floor loading or the stand, everything is good to go.

Time to pump out. Waited about 2 hours to make sure no leaks.

 

[1Snapple]

Looks good, TIME FOR SALT!!!!!

 

[k9doog]

Nuclearheli can you please help me choose the Tomas Research driver for my needs and where i should purchase them. In one system i need to control 24 Withe LED + 8 RB LED, and in the other system I need to control 72 White LED + 24 RB LED, have to be dimmeable to control with APEX controller, thank you very much, Damian.

 

[1Snapple]

Why so many white? its usually 2:1 blue: white

 

[k9doog]

Why so many white? its usually 2:1 blue: white

Because i will be using FEDY LED, and people who are using them report 3 to 1 ratio, this are the specs of white LED 3W LED, VF 3.2-3.6v, IF 700mA, color 18000~20000k, 220lm.

 

[strgazr27]

Why so many white? its usually 2:1 blue: white

Same reason some people go 2:1 with the CREE's. Not everybody likes the "14-20K look. Personally I think it looks "Fake" or "Unnatural". Yeah you can dial back your Blue's but you can also run 2:1 at full power if you choose and than get the same color. Kind of a toss up/trade off.

 

[Rhodes19]

Woo hoo!! Water.

 

[nuclearheli]

Nuclearheli can you please help me choose the Tomas Research driver for my needs and where i should purchase them. In one system i need to control 24 Withe LED + 8 RB LED, and in the other system I need to control 72 White LED + 24 RB LED, have to be dimmeable to control with APEX controller, thank you very much, Damian.

I can help you but I need to ask a few questions first. Your color choices are your business, that is fine. How will you be running them? First on the one system you will have 24 white and 8 RB will you be running them all in series on the same circuit? In other words will you want dimming control on the whites and also on the RB independent of each other?

Same question on the second system. Will you be running two strings or will you be running all the lights on the same circuit.

Next question. On both systems will you be running the lights in series (all connected together + to - or will you be running them in parallel (groups of strings in series connected in parallel)?

If your running all systems in a single string in series then you need to spec out your driver to have enough voltage to run all the LED's (I like to assume 3.5 volts forward) and I don't recommend your driver go above 700 mA. If you look at the light output curves it's not linear. In other words by driving the LED's to their maximum current your light output is not much higher. Better off running them at a maximum of 700 mA and not pushing them (IMO).

If your running multiple strings in parallel then you can go with a much lower voltage driver but higher current and you need to calculate the current needs of your strings and use other additional means to protect the parallel strings. If your going this route I am not the best person to give you advice on that. I am not as advanced in parallel strings as many others here are.

If your building it according to the way I built it here all in one string in series then we can spec out the right drivers for your needs, I just need to know what configuration you will be running in.

Buying these drivers is not really as bad as it first seemed. I purchased mine directly from TR however you need to have a resale tax id or they won't sell them to you. It turns out they only re-brand the drivers anyway and some people have purchased them through nanotuners.com or another company (slips my mind right now but I can get it for you).

Get back to me on the information I need and I can help you.

 

[nuclearheli]

Looks good, TIME FOR SALT!!!!!

Time for rock work. That was a leak check, a floor loading check, and an integrity check of my custom stand. Thank god everything passed with flying colors. The tank didn't move a mm off it's level position, no issues with the stand or the floor. But what a tease!

 

[nuclearheli]

Woo hoo!! Water.

Yeah but interesting problem I hadn't thought about. I have to start now accumulating RO water. Shoot I need 200 gallons of this stuff. My RO system in the house is capable of 100 gpd but it also feeds my frig and we use it in the kitchen. I can't drain it dry. So I need to start accumulating water in smaller batches every day now. Once my sump arrives and my rock work is done I want to have the full 200+ gallons ready to go.

I guess I will be looking for some really large storage containers for the basement that I can start filling slowly each day.

 

[k9doog]

I can help you but I need to ask a few questions first. Your color choices are your business, that is fine. How will you be running them? First on the one system you will have 24 white and 8 RB will you be running them all in series on the same circuit? In other words will you want dimming control on the whites and also on the RB independent of each other?

I want to dim independent of each other in both systems.

Same question on the second system. Will you be running two strings or will you be running all the lights on the same circuit.

I want to dim independent of each other, blue separate from white.

Next question. On both systems will you be running the lights in series (all connected together + to - or will you be running them in parallel (groups of strings in series connected in parallel)?

I think its better in series, as you did, i want the led to be protected if one get burn, so it don't burn the rest of the line.

If your running all systems in a single string in series then you need to spec out your driver to have enough voltage to run all the LED's (I like to assume 3.5 volts forward) and I don't recommend your driver go above 700 mA. If you look at the light output curves it's not linear. In other words by driving the LED's to their maximum current your light output is not much higher. Better off running them at a maximum of 700 mA and not pushing them (IMO).

If your running multiple strings in parallel then you can go with a much lower voltage driver but higher current and you need to calculate the current needs of your strings and use other additional means to protect the parallel strings. If your going this route I am not the best person to give you advice on that. I am not as advanced in parallel strings as many others here are.

If your building it according to the way I built it here all in one string in series then we can spec out the right drivers for your needs, I just need to know what configuration you will be running in.

This is what i want, according the way you built your, plus drivers are not cheap, if it is possible to run each system with 2 drivers better, for a total of 4 drivers if it is possible.

Buying these drivers is not really as bad as it first seemed. I purchased mine directly from TR however you need to have a resale tax id or they won't sell them to you. It turns out they only re-brand the drivers anyway and some people have purchased them through nanotuners.com or another company (slips my mind right now but I can get it for you).

Get back to me on the information I need and I can help you.

Thank you for your time, and i do really appreciate your help, Damian.

 

[nuclearheli]

If people think my build is a good one I am more than happy to help anyone do it again. I personally love the light. I find myself playing with it constantly, tweaking things to make it even better.

Ok, so I have a good picture of what you want to do. Let's start with fixture 1.

Purely from a cost standpoint if you want to save a few bucks, this fixture will work just fine with three MW drivers typical of what you see on the threads. You can use one single driver for the RB and two for the whites.

On the Thomas Research side of the house you should look at the TRC-075S070DT. This driver can handle your 24 white lights. It is a 700 mA light that has dimming control and can output between 55 and 108 Volts DC. Keep in mind with the drivers they quote the minimum voltage because in order to fire the driver you need to have at least that many volts (1/2 the maximum voltage). So if you tried to run 12 LED's with this driver nothing would happen because at 3.5 forward volts per LED you would be under the 55 volts necessary to start the driver.

For the 8 RB's if you want to stay with the TR drivers then you want the TRC-025S070DS which is a dimming driver 12 to 36 Volt DC 700 mA driver. This one also has 0 - 10 volt dimming input however it also has 0 - 10 volt output if you want to simply hook a pot to the driver for manual dimming. Nice option.

Those two TR drivers will take care of your first light.

Now on to the second light:

To run the 72 whites you will need the same driver I am using. Your total voltage requirements is approximately 250 Volts so the driver you would need is the TRC-200S070DT, 200 Watt driver capable of 171 to 285 Volts and a maximum of 700 mA. This driver has 0 - 10 Volt dimming.

On the 24 RB's you need approximately 84 volts and should use the TRC-075S070DT which is the 75 watt dimming driver capable of 55 to 108 Volts DC and a maximum output of 700 mA. This driver also has 0 -10 volt dimming.

The information above gives you the optimum drivers for each string in each of your two lights, total of 4 drivers in two lights.

Important to keep in mind. You will still need a manual on/off switch, a timer or like in my case an automatic shut off (mine through my Apex) because these drivers do not dim beyond 10%. For lighting that is not a problem, but if you plan to use your dimmer control to turn off your lights forget it. Besides, I think it's more efficient to kill the power to the driver when you don't need the lights.

You can contact nanotuners.com. They carry the Thomas Research Drivers and what they don't have I understand from others they will order them for you.

Hope this helped.

BTW, here is a link to the data sheets on all the drivers I talked about: http://www.thomasresearchproducts.c...Constant Current - 0-10V Dimmable - Long Life

 

[k9doog]

If people think my build is a good one I am more than happy to help anyone do it again. I personally love the light. I find myself playing with it constantly, tweaking things to make it even better.

Ok, so I have a good picture of what you want to do. Let's start with fixture 1.

Purely from a cost standpoint if you want to save a few bucks, this fixture will work just fine with three MW drivers typical of what you see on the threads. You can use one single driver for the RB and two for the whites.

On the Thomas Research side of the house you should look at the TRC-075S070DT. This driver can handle your 24 white lights. It is a 700 mA light that has dimming control and can output between 55 and 108 Volts DC. Keep in mind with the drivers they quote the minimum voltage because in order to fire the driver you need to have at least that many volts (1/2 the maximum voltage). So if you tried to run 12 LED's with this driver nothing would happen because at 3.5 forward volts per LED you would be under the 55 volts necessary to start the driver.

For the 8 RB's if you want to stay with the TR drivers then you want the TRC-025S070DS which is a dimming driver 12 to 36 Volt DC 700 mA driver. This one also has 0 - 10 volt dimming input however it also has 0 - 10 volt output if you want to simply hook a pot to the driver for manual dimming. Nice option.

Those two TR drivers will take care of your first light.

Now on to the second light:

To run the 72 whites you will need the same driver I am using. Your total voltage requirements is approximately 250 Volts so the driver you would need is the TRC-200S070DT, 200 Watt driver capable of 171 to 285 Volts and a maximum of 700 mA. This driver has 0 - 10 Volt dimming.

On the 24 RB's you need approximately 84 volts and should use the TRC-075S070DT which is the 75 watt dimming driver capable of 55 to 108 Volts DC and a maximum output of 700 mA. This driver also has 0 -10 volt dimming.

The information above gives you the optimum drivers for each string in each of your two lights, total of 4 drivers in two lights.

Important to keep in mind. You will still need a manual on/off switch, a timer or like in my case an automatic shut off (mine through my Apex) because these drivers do not dim beyond 10%. For lighting that is not a problem, but if you plan to use your dimmer control to turn off your lights forget it. Besides, I think it's more efficient to kill the power to the driver when you don't need the lights.

You can contact nanotuners.com. They carry the Thomas Research Drivers and what they don't have I understand from others they will order them for you.

Hope this helped.

BTW, here is a link to the data sheets on all the drivers I talked about: http://www.thomasresearchproducts.c...Constant Current - 0-10V Dimmable - Long Life

Thank you very much for your help.

 

[nuclearheli]

Moving on to the rock work I need some assistance please.

I plan to build my rock work like a sculpture, inventing it as I go. Caves, towers, bridges etc. I don't want to use foam and don't really have a plan. I will lay out rocks little at a time "creating" as I go.

I will be connecting and supporting my rocks to each other using dabs of this stuff:

Anyone know of any reason why I can't use this stuff as an adhesive as I build my rock structure?

BTW, Lowes has 24x48" egg crate for 11 bucks.

 

[rcr]

Not sure about the cement but I have another lighting question if I may? I am planning a 72lX24hX30w with sump in basement. Please don't stop the build thread I need the help. On the light did you consider grounding the fixture for safety reasons?

 

[nuclearheli]

Not sure about the cement but I have another lighting question if I may? I am planning a 72lX24hX30w with sump in basement. Please don't stop the build thread I need the help. On the light did you consider grounding the fixture for safety reasons?

I installed ground straps between the upper and lower lighting fixtures, from the frames to both drivers, from the frame to the pamona box, from the frame to the Apex 4 port energy bar, and from the un-managed power strip to the frame. Of course the power strip is grounded to the house and I have checked the grounds. Probably all not necessary but you can never be too safe.

 

[1Snapple]

Wow, a lot of posts today. Where are you getting your rocks?

 

[nuclearheli]

Wow, a lot of posts today. Where are you getting your rocks?

I purchased some rock at a frag swap back in November but I am painfully short as you can see. This is not my desired rock configuration, I just placed them in the tank to gain a prospective on where I was with rocks.

As you can see I did my egg crate before placing the rocks in the tank. I now have a lead on somebody nearby my house for another 200 pounds of live rock from a tank he is taking down this week. I plan to purchase all he has.

As for the rock I have already made up my mind that I am going to bake the rocks at a very high temperature and kill everything. Basically I have all the time I need to start over with a proper cycle. I am doing this because I cannot stand the Aiptasia anemones any more. I battle them in my other tank constantly. I am starting off clean and am going to do everything in my power to keep them out of this tank!!!

As I pointed out this is not my rock's configuration, it's just a painful reality of just how short on rock I am.

 

[Bamm Bamm]

How much rock are you planning on using in it? Im going to try to go somewhat minimal in my 210 but not to where the tank looks bare or anything

 

[nuclearheli]

How much rock are you planning on using in it? Im going to try to go somewhat minimal in my 210 but not to where the tank looks bare or anything

I am going for another 200 pounds to see what it looks like. I am trying to go with a very high center piece to showcase some corals towards the surface. Looking to get that "tiered" effect somewhat more shallow and roomier towards the sides. Without a doubt I am staying well clear of both side and front glass for cleaning sake.

I also want a nice front open surface for some bottom corals. Also easier to clean.

Lastly trying to get lots of caves and places to swim through the rocks and to hide at night. That's what I like most about my current tank, when I get up in the morning to let the dog out the light on the tank only came on about a minute or two before I get there. It looks like I don't have a single fish in the tank for about 15 minutes. They all have their places to hide and sleep.