210 Upgrade Build with LED Build

Here is some interesting and encouraging data I would like to share.

This is a typical graph of the current usage of my 90 tank for a 24 hour period. This is only for my lights and heater, during the day only for the lights. For the most part at night you can see the spikes in amps when the heater turns on and off, and a rather large spike in the morning when the heater and my Icecap light turns on. That is a 2x 250w MH with 4 T5's. Then for the most part the energy usage flattens out at about 4.8 amps until the MH turn off.

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Now, I was playing with my LED build a few days ago and my Apex was logging the energy usage. I had the LED at full blast for a bit then I had some quick profiles simulating sun rise and setting until finally about three hours later I had it go all the way to dusk. What I found most interesting is that at full blast my energy usage was down under 1.2 amps. And frankly I don't think I can run this rig at 100%, it's very bright.

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I am really pleased with that considering not only am I cutting back on the energy use, but I am lighting a tank 2.3x the size of the 90 while doing it.
 
I am looking to do a very similar setup but want to mix equal parts "cool white/royal blue/blue" Cree LEDs. To get the most consistant light I am thinking of doing a spacing like this on the bar:

--000---000---000--

instead of your equal spacing. The obvious concern would be heat dissipation. The total length of the bar will be the same and the total number of LEDs per bar will be the same. Do you think it will be a problem?
 
No I don't think you will have a problem. I have not had any heat problems. In fact I have to turn my temp all the way down to get the fans to come on. One thing to consider is my epoxy potting. According to the specs the epoxy helps draw heat away from the stars from both sides. I think the epoxy potting has dramatically improved my heat transfer to the bar stock. Also I used the hollow core bar stock over the solid core for both weight and thermal transfer. Do you plan to use the g11 and pot ypor leds?
 
yup, that's the plan. I was able to get in touch with Nick from Nanotuners and it sounds like he will be able to get the TR drivers I will need. My next step is to figure out how to run the whole thing off solar power...

I'm still in the planning stages of my new system so very interested to hear how yours ends up working out. Any luck getting the Apex to manage dimming yet?
 
hey guys , great build, I have a 210g with diy leds but someone else did them for me,I have the 60-48d mw can I have the apex controll them or would I have to go to 60-48p mw, and how did you make the plug for the dimmer? Sorry for all the ???
 
Had some spare time tonight, so I finished it up... I also used the 1.5" 2 sided t slots for my build. Each cross member is 50" so 104.5" total length by 30" wide
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yup, that's the plan. I was able to get in touch with Nick from Nanotuners and it sounds like he will be able to get the TR drivers I will need. My next step is to figure out how to run the whole thing off solar power...

I'm still in the planning stages of my new system so very interested to hear how yours ends up working out. Any luck getting the Apex to manage dimming yet?

Solar now that's cool. The apex vdm is on the way back to Neptune. Seems after my testing they determined it was fried. Doing manual dimming for now
 
hey guys , great build, I have a 210g with diy leds but someone else did them for me,I have the 60-48d mw can I have the apex controll them or would I have to go to 60-48p mw, and how did you make the plug for the dimmer? Sorry for all the ???

The plug is a standard Ethernet cable. According to Neptune the pin assignments are

Pin 3 ground v1
pin 4 0 to 10 volt v1

Pin 7 ground v2
pin 8 0 to 10 volt v2

Pins read left to right as you look at the apex plug
 
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