Hey Heli, I like the idea on the use of the pleds. Question for you. Do the pleds use voltage when the fixture is operating? If not what triggers them to come on and do their job in the event of a short? Obviously you'd have to factor in the vF of the pleds as you would with the leds and stay within the range of your driver. But what I'm wondering is if you have to factor in the forward voltages of both combined when choosing a driver? Hope that makes sense.
PLED's are shunts, they are totally "off" when the circuit is normal, no voltage or current passes through the PLED. If you use your DVM you will not measure anything through the PLED.
PLED's are rated based on a trigger voltage. For a single 3w LED the trigger voltage on the PLED is 6 volts.
This is how it works. If you have a series of LED's and measure the voltage at each LED you should get the forward voltage, in my case 3.x volts depending on the color. You can measure each LED and always get the same voltage. But if one of the LED's fails open then the circuit is broken and the voltage measured at the + of that LED, across a ground on the driver is the maximum voltage that the driver puts out. In my case my drivers put out 285 volts. So it doesn't matter where the LED fails, the voltage will always be the maximum voltage that the driver puts out when any LED fails open.
The PLED reacts to the change in voltage. Under normal operating conditions the voltage across the LED is 3.x volts and the trigger voltage of the PLED is 6 volts so the PLED does nothing at all. When the LED fails open the PLED senses voltage that exceeds 6 volts and in a nanosecond responds and is triggered. It then passes the full current of the string which is passed along to the next LED and everything stay's on except the one LED that failed. The actual forward voltage of the PLED's I used is 1.3 volts. They maintain a low voltage in order to minimize any heat buildup.
You don't need to factor anything into the build for the PLED. You can purchase PLED's for 6, 9 and higher voltages so in very large multiple LED strings you can protect several LED's with one PLED. For our builds it makes sense to get the PLED that triggers at the lowest voltage to protect single LED's.
This also works very well for parallel builds as well. Parallel builds are nothing more than multiple series builds where you share the overall current with each string. The problem with parallel builds has always been protecting other strings if one string fails open and the current is then increased in the other strings. With PLED's protecting each LED in the series you cannot get into a situtation where the string dies and the current to the other strings suddenly increases. The PLED's always pass the current around the failed LED.
Votage means nothing when using PLED's. All you need to do is select a PLED that has a trigger voltage low enough to sense the failure of a single LED. Again, for the 3w cree's the 6volt PLED is perfect.