220 Inwall - Plan

[bheron]

Thanks Marc. Do I have to use the same quality bulkhead to plug up the return that I wont be using?

 

[melev]

I would.

 

[bheron]

ok, so I have to buy 4 bulkheads then. buying 2 high end ones is one thing. but now I'm thinking I have to buy 4.

 

[bheron]

ok, I measured the hole openings in my prefilter boxes:


Large hole: 1-3/4"

Smaller hole: 1-1/2"

I found this really difficult to do. I tried several ways with a tape measure and kept getting slightly different readings.. So then I took a peice of foam type insulation and pressed it onto the hole.

I was able then to take a measurement of the indentation left from it. I even found that tough too -- measuring the diameter of a circle with a tape measure.

So, now my question is: when buying bulkheads online (Joseph, like the link you sent me) do they list the "inner diameter" or the "outer"?

Joseph, on that link I see one for a 1.5" but not a 1.75"? Is that an odd size? Maybe I measured it wrong?

 

[tgunn]

ok, I measured the hole openings in my prefilter boxes:


Large hole: 1-3/4"

Smaller hole: 1-1/2"

I found this really difficult to do. I tried several ways with a tape measure and kept getting slightly different readings.. So then I took a peice of foam type insulation and pressed it onto the hole.

I was able then to take a measurement of the indentation left from it. I even found that tough too -- measuring the diameter of a circle with a tape measure.

So, now my question is: when buying bulkheads online (Joseph, like the link you sent me) do they list the "inner diameter" or the "outer"?

Joseph, on that link I see one for a 1.5" but not a 1.75"? Is that an odd size? Maybe I measured it wrong?

You'll want to make sure that the bulkhead is listed to fit in the holes you've got. Usually they're listed as the size of the fitting that connects to the bulkhead. ie. a 1.5" bulkhead lets you pass 1.5" PVC through the tank. Usually the hole size required is quite a bit larger..

The heavier duty the bulkhead, the larger the hole that's required. Savko has some lighter weight bulkheads that might work well for you. They have a 1" bulkhead (ie will pass 1" plumbing through) that fits in a 1 3/4" hole, and a 3/4" bulkhead that fits in a 1 7/16" - 1.5" hole.

If you use their heavier bulkheads, you could fit a 1/2" and 3/4" bulkhead (ie you lose a 1/4" in the diameter plumbing you're passing through).

I feel the pain though; the builder who built my tank drilled 2.5" holes for the 1 1/2" bulkheads. Most 1 1/2" bulkheads of a heavy guage require 2 5/8" holes or larger. He ended up machining down the threads on heavier bulkheads to make them fit; I used Dow Corning 795 silicone to glue the bulkheads in; the silicone is what's really holding things in and the threaded nut is there for decoration really..

Tyler

 

[melev]

Using standard bulkheads, you may be able to fit a 1.25" drain and a 1" return. It will be snug. Be sure you let them know what size your holes are, and if you are ordering by phone, as the salesperson to physically measure the bulkhead's diameter while you wait. That way you'll know for sure if it will fit.

I think Schedule 80 bulkheads are not an option in this situation.

 

[bheron]

Tyler, Marc - thanks for the good feedback. yes, this is probably why I glaze over all of the pages and pages of bulkhead discussion in all threads (including yours )

Ok, I'll definitely have to call and order in person. I'm also hoping my measurements are accurate enough. I may also try to contact the MFR (AGA) to see if they have a standard they use for the tank.


Here's a crazy thought, but why use bulkheads at all? Why not just pass a PVC pipe right through the hole and seal it with silicone?
:rolleye1:
I'm guessing one answer is that you can't easily remove it. I'm sure there are others.


EDIT:Tyler, I checked out the link to "Savko". Is that where you got yours from? Also, I notice they have these things called "Lightweight" bulkheads, which would be the ones that would fit my openings.

http://www.savko.com/portal/bulkhead.asp

 

[tgunn]

Tyler, Marc - thanks for the good feedback. yes, this is probably why I glaze over all of the pages and pages of bulkhead discussion in all threads (including yours )

Ok, I'll definitely have to call and order in person. I'm also hoping my measurements are accurate enough. I may also try to contact the MFR (AGA) to see if they have a standard they use for the tank.

Here's a crazy thought, but why use bulkheads at all? Why not just pass a PVC pipe right through the hole and seal it with silicone?
:rolleye1:
I'm guessing one answer is that you can't easily remove it. I'm sure there are others.


EDIT:Tyler, I checked out the link to "Savko". Is that where you got yours from? Also, I notice they have these things called "Lightweight" bulkheads, which would be the ones that would fit my openings.

http://www.savko.com/portal/bulkhead.asp

Actually,
The guy who built my tank typically doesn't even use bulkheads in the overflows of tanks he makes..

He uses a SOC x MPT and Soc x FPT fitting and tightens them together in the glass hole. A liberal coating of silicone on both sides and along the inside of the hole and you're got a water-tight seal:

I'm actually going to be using this to the bulkheads on my sump. The sump is drilled for 1" bulkheads, which is small for my liking. However, I can use 1 1/4" FPT/MPT adapters like this and silicone them in like that.

I wouldn't use this method for a closed loop or in a spot where there's a lot of pressure on the fitting.

I didn't end up getting the SAVKO lightweight bulkheads in the end. I was going to, but I really wanted to use heavier bulkheads. In the end it turns out that the tank builder had already sanded down the threads on some schedule 80 bulkheads to make them fit into the 2.5 holes. I wasn't comfortable with the integrity of the threads in this state (though he did torture test one by trying to overtighten it and get it to strip). So I used Dow Corning 795 silicone to glue the bulkhead on; I tightened the bottom nut a bit past hand tight.

Here's what it looks like:

Tyler

 

[bheron]

Thats an interesting method.

Q: what's "FPT/MPT" ?

Also, on the Marine Deopt site they mention names like:

"Standard Threaded" and "Double Threaded" and "Double Slip"

???


I guess I need to do some reading.

 

[weatherson]

FPT = Female Pipe Threads
MPT = Male Pipe Threads

I believe "Standard Threaded" refers to threaded and slip on oposite ends. Slip is the type that accepts PVC pipe directly with gluing. The other two versions are then self explanatory.

It does look like you are limited by your hole size to one each, 1" and 3/4" bulkheads per box. Check out the following to compare with the others you find.

AES better bulkheads.

Joseph

 

[bheron]

Excellent. I think its all making sense now -- the thread types and the male vs femail. Also, it looks like AES has the size I need, too. I will call them and order over the phone to make sure I have the correct specs. Thank you Joseph, Tyler and Marc!

 

[tgunn]

Here's a fitting (left) with FPT on top, and one (right) with MPT on top:

Here's how to fit them together to make a "bulhead" of sorts you'd silicone into your hole:

That said, "real" bulkheads are always the most leak proof.. There's nothing wrong with the lighter ones; you just have to make sure to not over tighten them and crack the fittings. If done right they're just as water tight as the heavier fittings.

Tyler

 

[bheron]

Tyler - got it. I've made the one above in your picture for my rubbermaid fuge. I used a rubber gasket. I'll have to be careful how I tighten them.

- Not tight enough, and it leaks, right? too tight, and it breaks?

-- I'm hoping to use the long piece of PVC from my Durso to tighten it since my tank is 30" deep and I dont think I can reach the bottom!

 

[tgunn]

Tyler - got it. I've made the one above in your picture for my rubbermaid fuge. I used a rubber gasket. I'll have to be careful how I tighten them.

- Not tight enough, and it leaks, right? too tight, and it breaks?

-- I'm hoping to use the long piece of PVC from my Durso to tighten it since my tank is 30" deep and I dont think I can reach the bottom!

If you silicone it in as well as use the gasket I imagine as long as it's hand tight and there's enough silicone gooped on it should hold pretty well. But definitely a balance between too tight and not tight enough; definitely don't want to break the fittings or glass..

I hear you; it was hard enough to try to install bulkheads in my overflow with a 24" tall tank; I can't imagine the extra 6".

Later,
Tyler

 

[bheron]

Glad to hear you went through the same!! Thanks.

 

[Im Lon 2]

Bryan - Thanks for some ideas!! I have a lot to do but Mine is getting there. I have 23 Sheets of Dry wall up and 38 more to go!!

 

[bheron]

Hey Lonnie - looking great! Nice work! Thats a heck of a lot of drywall sheets. You will be a pro when yourew done.

One thing I notice right away thats different than mine is that your stairs - nice job btw - are more open than mine. At the bottom of mine we have a load bearing pole that we have to box the drywall around. you dont, so it looks SOOO much more open.

sweet!

 

[Im Lon 2]

I was wondering if that is why you had a yours boxed off at the bottom of the steps..

I cannot wait till the dry walling is done.. I'm ready to paint.. I'm avg 2.5 sheets an hour by myself. When I was planning I put a lot of outlets in all the rooms.. Now I'm wishing I would not have done that. So far only 2 sheets out of the 23 did not need some type of special cut for electrical boxes. And every sheet has to have 2.5" taken off. So Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢m guessing/hoping I would have all the drywall up by the end of next weekend.

 

[bheron]

Nice work. What do you have to make the special cuts? My drywallers had this thing called a "rotozip". Might be worth looking into?

 

[Im Lon 2]

Oh yeah the Rotozip is great for special cuts.. It just takes some time measuring, marking, and cutting. But yeah the Rotozip makes it 10x faster. This is the first time I have used it, and I highly suggest them. Now on straight cuts, nothing beets a 4ââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢ square and utility knife.