dougchambers
New member
Hey Tyler - So it doesn't setup like a glue?
-Doug
-Doug
220 Inwall - Plan
- Thread starter bheron
- Start date
- Status
weatherson
Premium Member
For better clarity, I snapped a few photos to better explain what I was referring to above regarding the addition of a threaded nipple to a bulkhead. In the first photo, there is a 1" bulkhead with threaded top and slip bottom (nut side), a 1" threaded nipple (this particular one has a nut-shaped middle but you can find them without this) and a 1" nipple sawed in half. The second photo shows how the "half nipple" is inserted and then glued into the slip end of the bulkhead. Finally, the third photo shows the half nipple installed in the bulkhead. When doing this, be sure to leave enough non-threaded area of the nipple to hold while tightening whatever female threaded part that is to attach to it.
Joseph
Joseph
tgunn
Active member
dougchambers said:
Doug,
No, it remains a paste. It seems to seal quite nicely and holds up very well to water... So if you ever need to undo a fitting you can do so easily. It's paste consistency also helps lubricate the threads making it easier to fasten and unfasten fittings.
Tyler
dougchambers
New member
tgunn said:
Excellent! I've got to find some...
-Doug
bheron
Active member
Thanks so much for all the feedback and dialog.
(I've been preoccupied the last 2 days with other stuff, but the comments above have been processed during that time).
Marc - good point about getting more and using the others as spares. the shipment already went out, I checked and learned it was too late to order on.
Tyler - that paste looks great! Never heard of it, but the idea is to use it in PLACE of "Teflon Tape" and NOT in place of "PVC glue". So you can make stronger, non-permanent threaded connections, like with Teflon Tape, but better?! Cool stuff.
Joseph, Tyler - I think after reading a few times I understand your creative alternative with the pipe nipples. So, bascially with the design you showed, Joseph, the idea is to transfer the pressures of tightening onto the nipple and off of the bulkhead? It makes sense to me and will be what I use to put together my bulkheads. Thank you!!!
Update, in the rush to order stuff the other day I went from a place in Florida to finally MD in CA. Florida promised to have the stuff to me in PA in 3 days with UPS ground. I didnt realize MD was in CA which means it'll take like a full week to get to me with UPS ground. Right now scheduled to arrive next Mon the 26th.
Thats cool b/c I have plently of stuff to do before then to get the tank ready for plumbing.
Here's a quick summary of what's left:
Next 4 weeks (9/21-10/21)
- Completely build out plumbing
- Full wet-run of entire system with non salt water
- Cook most of my live rock from my 75g
- Move livestock from 75g into a 20g holding tank
- Build out 75g into my new sump
Following 4 weeks (10/21-11/21)
- Fill up 210 display and rest of system with RODI, Mix in salt, Heat
- Insert LR and also new base rock (still have to purchase)
- Begin cycle
- Work on aquascaping
I hate to think it will take me up until thanksgiving (9 weeks away) to have my tank up and running with livestock. But that looks to be the reality of it. And a shocker that thanksgiving is only 9 weeks away!
Stay tuned for updates! Thanks for all the input.
(I've been preoccupied the last 2 days with other stuff, but the comments above have been processed during that time).
Marc - good point about getting more and using the others as spares. the shipment already went out, I checked and learned it was too late to order on.
Tyler - that paste looks great! Never heard of it, but the idea is to use it in PLACE of "Teflon Tape" and NOT in place of "PVC glue". So you can make stronger, non-permanent threaded connections, like with Teflon Tape, but better?! Cool stuff.
Joseph, Tyler - I think after reading a few times I understand your creative alternative with the pipe nipples. So, bascially with the design you showed, Joseph, the idea is to transfer the pressures of tightening onto the nipple and off of the bulkhead? It makes sense to me and will be what I use to put together my bulkheads. Thank you!!!
Update, in the rush to order stuff the other day I went from a place in Florida to finally MD in CA. Florida promised to have the stuff to me in PA in 3 days with UPS ground. I didnt realize MD was in CA which means it'll take like a full week to get to me with UPS ground. Right now scheduled to arrive next Mon the 26th.
Thats cool b/c I have plently of stuff to do before then to get the tank ready for plumbing.
Here's a quick summary of what's left:
Next 4 weeks (9/21-10/21)
- Completely build out plumbing
- Full wet-run of entire system with non salt water
- Cook most of my live rock from my 75g
- Move livestock from 75g into a 20g holding tank
- Build out 75g into my new sump
Following 4 weeks (10/21-11/21)
- Fill up 210 display and rest of system with RODI, Mix in salt, Heat
- Insert LR and also new base rock (still have to purchase)
- Begin cycle
- Work on aquascaping
I hate to think it will take me up until thanksgiving (9 weeks away) to have my tank up and running with livestock. But that looks to be the reality of it. And a shocker that thanksgiving is only 9 weeks away!
Stay tuned for updates! Thanks for all the input.
tgunn
Active member
bheron said:
Correct, use it in place of teflon tape, not in place of PVC glue. It never sets or hardens up and it doesn't seem to wash off (got some on one of my shirts; and it didn't come off in the wash)..
BTW, don't feel bad if it seems things are taking a long time for you. I've had my tank since May and I'm STILL chugging away at things. Oh well, I'm in the home stretch, so SOON.
Tyler
bheron
Active member
ahh. I was sure you guys would say def us it.
Ok.
But wait, Marc you said the flange (the rubber washer) goes on the inside of the tank? Looking at it I figured it went on the outside (underneath) the tank.
It looks like there's a good seal on the inner peice (female) and the outside part (male) would need the flange? no?
Ok.
But wait, Marc you said the flange (the rubber washer) goes on the inside of the tank? Looking at it I figured it went on the outside (underneath) the tank.
It looks like there's a good seal on the inner peice (female) and the outside part (male) would need the flange? no?
bheron
Active member
Just picked up all the parts for my Dursos! Enough parts for two dursos = $14.85!
So, by the end of this weekend I hope to accomplish the following:
- Have all new stands/shelves built in fish room to hold plumbing, fuge, sump and QT tank
- Have livestock moved to 20gallong holding tank
- Move 75g tank under display to serve as sump
- Install rubber baseboard along floor of tank room
- Install Dursos
- Install plumbing
- Fill tank and do first "Wet Run"
We shall see!
- Install rest of
So, by the end of this weekend I hope to accomplish the following:
- Have all new stands/shelves built in fish room to hold plumbing, fuge, sump and QT tank
- Have livestock moved to 20gallong holding tank
- Move 75g tank under display to serve as sump
- Install rubber baseboard along floor of tank room
- Install Dursos
- Install plumbing
- Fill tank and do first "Wet Run"
We shall see!
- Install rest of
tgunn
Active member
Tip: Make sure to caulk where the rubber baseboard meets the floor and along the corners and any seams; that'll make sure that if you spill a volume of water it won't seep under the baseboard.
I did this in my fish room and despite leaving my RO/DI running and spilling about 4 gallons of water on the floor no water leaked into the adjoining rooms...
I did this in my fish room and despite leaving my RO/DI running and spilling about 4 gallons of water on the floor no water leaked into the adjoining rooms...
dougchambers
New member
Hey Bryan... A word of advice on building your durso(s). Don't glue anything. I've helped a number of people fix/replace their Durso pipes after making flow changes. Glue is not your friend.
-Doug
-Doug
tgunn
Active member
dougchambers said:
Excellent point Doug; I glued mine together except I didn't glue it into the slip fitting on my bulkhead. I have run into the problem that the durso is too tall and will get in the way of one of my T5s. I've gotta build an all new one because of this. Doh!
Tyler
bheron
Active member
Tyler - "Tip: Make sure to caulk where the rubber baseboard meets the floor and along the corners and any seams; that'll make sure that if you spill a volume of water it won't seep under the baseboard.
I did this in my fish room and despite leaving my RO/DI running and spilling about 4 gallons of water on the floor no water leaked into the adjoining rooms..."
- Wow, yep. I bought some caulking that was right next to the rubber baseboard in HD. It will seal it to both wood and concrete. I'm so glad you gave that feedback b/c thats EXACTLY my fear! I KNOW I'm gonna have some big spills, that just how I am. And the wife will kill me if anything makes it over to the newly finished basement. Cool. Just wasnt sure if this would do the trick or not. Sounds like, from your experience, it should be pretty darn good! Thx
Doug - "A word of advice on building your durso(s). Don't glue anything. I've helped a number of people fix/replace their Durso pipes after making flow changes. Glue is not your friend."
- Doug, Tyler thanks for that info. I was actually debating on doing that, at least for the fitting process. But are you saying you can get away without gluing ANY of the parts at all - even when its up and running? I will go that way and see if it works. I'll just use teflon tape on the threaded areas. I saw Tyler use some joint compound stuff, saw it HD, but didnt buy any. Thanks!
I did this in my fish room and despite leaving my RO/DI running and spilling about 4 gallons of water on the floor no water leaked into the adjoining rooms..."
- Wow, yep. I bought some caulking that was right next to the rubber baseboard in HD. It will seal it to both wood and concrete. I'm so glad you gave that feedback b/c thats EXACTLY my fear! I KNOW I'm gonna have some big spills, that just how I am. And the wife will kill me if anything makes it over to the newly finished basement. Cool. Just wasnt sure if this would do the trick or not. Sounds like, from your experience, it should be pretty darn good! Thx
Doug - "A word of advice on building your durso(s). Don't glue anything. I've helped a number of people fix/replace their Durso pipes after making flow changes. Glue is not your friend."
- Doug, Tyler thanks for that info. I was actually debating on doing that, at least for the fitting process. But are you saying you can get away without gluing ANY of the parts at all - even when its up and running? I will go that way and see if it works. I'll just use teflon tape on the threaded areas. I saw Tyler use some joint compound stuff, saw it HD, but didnt buy any. Thanks!
bheron
Active member
Update
Update
Hey all, its been awhile and time for an update. I was hoping to get the majority of this done last weekend...but I finished this week.
PART I
First, I completed the building of all the needed stands and worktables in the tank room.
- Its tough to see but I built a small, 20"x22" stand directly to the left of the display tank. This will hold my 15g acclimation tank as well as be the area to house pods (above) and electrical panel DJ-100s (below).
Then, I built out a stand and a workstation on the opposite wall and around the sink:
I built these out of 2x3's and used MDF for the tops. After building the display stand this was a peice of cake. I'm amazed at how much I learned from building the display stand. If I may continue to pat myself on the back, I had the entire stock of wood cut and ready to go for all three stands in 50 mins!
The tough part was, after screwing everything together, staining and painting the whole thing. Yes, this was a decision I had to make. I so badly wanted to rush and get these things up but, I decided, they should be protected from all of the water I'm sure to spill on them. So:
- I put on good coat of old reliable Kilz
- And then put a nice finish coat of the Rustoleum Satin paint:
I am so glad I did that b/c these things are not only ready to go, but they also look nice.
Part II next...
Update
Hey all, its been awhile and time for an update. I was hoping to get the majority of this done last weekend...but I finished this week.
PART I
First, I completed the building of all the needed stands and worktables in the tank room.
- Its tough to see but I built a small, 20"x22" stand directly to the left of the display tank. This will hold my 15g acclimation tank as well as be the area to house pods (above) and electrical panel DJ-100s (below).
Then, I built out a stand and a workstation on the opposite wall and around the sink:
I built these out of 2x3's and used MDF for the tops. After building the display stand this was a peice of cake. I'm amazed at how much I learned from building the display stand. If I may continue to pat myself on the back, I had the entire stock of wood cut and ready to go for all three stands in 50 mins!
The tough part was, after screwing everything together, staining and painting the whole thing. Yes, this was a decision I had to make. I so badly wanted to rush and get these things up but, I decided, they should be protected from all of the water I'm sure to spill on them. So:
- I put on good coat of old reliable Kilz
- And then put a nice finish coat of the Rustoleum Satin paint:
I am so glad I did that b/c these things are not only ready to go, but they also look nice.
Part II next...
bheron
Active member
Part II
Next, I worked on sealing the floor off around the room. As mentioned, I can get water in the adjoining room that we just finished. So:
- I put a lining of rubber baseboard around the 2 walls facing the outside room. This was really easy as a 4" strip of the baseboard costs $2.50, and then another $3 for the glue.
Here you can see the job under the stand - not pretty but I dont care:
I also ran one by the door frame. Again, not pretty, a littel awkward, but I dont care - as long as it keeps the water out:
Note: I still need to also complete the following in my task to completely seal off the room:
- I'm not sure the glue they gave me is waterproof. So I'll run a layer of silicone caulk around all the seams in the baseboard, on the bottom where it meets the floor, and on the top where it meets the wall/stand.
- There are som larger gaps in the baseboard and the stand, so I'm gonna use some of that "Great Stuff" used to fill larger holes.
Next, I worked on sealing the floor off around the room. As mentioned, I can get water in the adjoining room that we just finished. So:
- I put a lining of rubber baseboard around the 2 walls facing the outside room. This was really easy as a 4" strip of the baseboard costs $2.50, and then another $3 for the glue.
Here you can see the job under the stand - not pretty but I dont care:
I also ran one by the door frame. Again, not pretty, a littel awkward, but I dont care - as long as it keeps the water out:
Note: I still need to also complete the following in my task to completely seal off the room:
- I'm not sure the glue they gave me is waterproof. So I'll run a layer of silicone caulk around all the seams in the baseboard, on the bottom where it meets the floor, and on the top where it meets the wall/stand.
- There are som larger gaps in the baseboard and the stand, so I'm gonna use some of that "Great Stuff" used to fill larger holes.
- Status
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