220 Inwall - Plan
- Thread starter bheron
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melev
Well-known member
If you go back to that same section in my thread where we discussed the humidistat, you'll discover that running HVAC into your fish room is not a good idea, according the opinions of others. They may or may not be experts, but I decided not to pursue that plan. Here's why:
The only time the A/C will pump out cool air is when your thermostat turns on in the house. The fish room will never be the same temperature as the rest of your home because of the heat and water source within those walls. Lighting is a huge part of that.
If you have a vent fan sucking air out of the room, it can and probably will suck air from other rooms via the HVAC vent in the fish room, which in effect wastes the cool or warm air in neighboring rooms.
I opted to put a window a/c unit in the fish room, and that has worked out perfectly over the past year. During the winter, I set it to 80F. During the summer 78F. Spring and Fall, I open up the room to let fresh air blow through the garage ---> fishroom ----> patio doors of the house. I had better pH readings doing that.
The only time the A/C will pump out cool air is when your thermostat turns on in the house. The fish room will never be the same temperature as the rest of your home because of the heat and water source within those walls. Lighting is a huge part of that.
If you have a vent fan sucking air out of the room, it can and probably will suck air from other rooms via the HVAC vent in the fish room, which in effect wastes the cool or warm air in neighboring rooms.
I opted to put a window a/c unit in the fish room, and that has worked out perfectly over the past year. During the winter, I set it to 80F. During the summer 78F. Spring and Fall, I open up the room to let fresh air blow through the garage ---> fishroom ----> patio doors of the house. I had better pH readings doing that.
I understand that point Melev. Makes sense. It was an HVAC person who explained to me that putting the central air duct in the room, along with a static vent above my door, will keep the tank cool. It actually works. I dont, however, have a vent fan sucking air out... yet. Thinking of putting a vent in the bottom of the door and a fan in the vent above the door blowing out, in order to gather the cool air close to the floor in the house to bring into the room.
But I digress. Not gonna hijack the thread. I'll keep doing my research.
But I digress. Not gonna hijack the thread. I'll keep doing my research.
bheron
Active member
Marc - yep, I read alot of opions about what youre saying. I found it to go both ways on the topic. I think you may be right.
I decided to go this way b/c of the circumstances of the entire setup: I need to have an exhaust vent in the tank room and we need to have the "ability" to keep the main room surrounding the tank room cool (it gets pretty hot if you're entertaining down there).
So, b/c of those two reasons, I'm going to experiment and see what happens the first month or so. Good thing is that it'll be the hottest months when I give this a try, so I'll know right away.
I decided to go this way b/c of the circumstances of the entire setup: I need to have an exhaust vent in the tank room and we need to have the "ability" to keep the main room surrounding the tank room cool (it gets pretty hot if you're entertaining down there).
So, b/c of those two reasons, I'm going to experiment and see what happens the first month or so. Good thing is that it'll be the hottest months when I give this a try, so I'll know right away.
bheron
Active member
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Hi all, I hope some of you are out there since I need some good input!
It was to do with the whole leveling question I had before. We're finishing the basement and trying to level the tank. Right now, its off-level by about 7/8 of an inch from left to right. The stand is 6 feet long, so thats almost an inch off-level over 6 feet.
- my first question is: is that bad? in my mind, thats pretty off level! my contractor is trying to say its not bad and i'll "never get it perfect!" I think its way off.
- another question is: right now there are shims keeping it level. earlier we had a discussion and Weatherson joined in and suggested that regular "door jam shims" wouldnt be ideal for a 2500 pound fish tank. I completely agree. I seem to remember someone using "hardwood" shims. I've decided to use shims here, rather than another technique suggested by weatherson, but I'm not sure sure about the strength of a normal shim with 2500lbs. thoughts??
any input would be apprecaited as I have to figure this out today, if possible!
Help
Hi all, I hope some of you are out there since I need some good input!
It was to do with the whole leveling question I had before. We're finishing the basement and trying to level the tank. Right now, its off-level by about 7/8 of an inch from left to right. The stand is 6 feet long, so thats almost an inch off-level over 6 feet.
- my first question is: is that bad? in my mind, thats pretty off level! my contractor is trying to say its not bad and i'll "never get it perfect!" I think its way off.
- another question is: right now there are shims keeping it level. earlier we had a discussion and Weatherson joined in and suggested that regular "door jam shims" wouldnt be ideal for a 2500 pound fish tank. I completely agree. I seem to remember someone using "hardwood" shims. I've decided to use shims here, rather than another technique suggested by weatherson, but I'm not sure sure about the strength of a normal shim with 2500lbs. thoughts??
any input would be apprecaited as I have to figure this out today, if possible!
jeffbrig
Premium Member
bheron,
I used hardboard, not hardwood to level my stand. You can read about it here:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=4343127#post4343127
Wood shims are less than idea, as they could compress unless you use dozens of them to distribute the weight. That's why I liked the idea of using hardboard sheet as a 'shim'. I still used some shims to fill in small gaps that were less than the thickness of the hardboard.
Also, HD sells composite shims that are MUCH stronger than wood, yet still easy to snap/break.
I used hardboard, not hardwood to level my stand. You can read about it here:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=4343127#post4343127
Wood shims are less than idea, as they could compress unless you use dozens of them to distribute the weight. That's why I liked the idea of using hardboard sheet as a 'shim'. I still used some shims to fill in small gaps that were less than the thickness of the hardboard.
Also, HD sells composite shims that are MUCH stronger than wood, yet still easy to snap/break.
bheron
Active member
Jeff.. thanks!!! this is exactly what I was looking for. right, I see frmo your post, "hardboard" and not "hardwood". difference. wow. that would be great if HD sells them already since I dont have the budget for a 4x8 piece. either way, though, this is important enough that id have to shell it out.
ok, i'm gonna check for it after work. thanks so much, jeff!!
OH! one more detail. my contractor is talking about that filler/cement stuff they use in bathrooms to level out floors. i know i heard about it on here before but i dont think it will work. any experience with that?
ok, i'm gonna check for it after work. thanks so much, jeff!!
OH! one more detail. my contractor is talking about that filler/cement stuff they use in bathrooms to level out floors. i know i heard about it on here before but i dont think it will work. any experience with that?
dougchambers
New member
Depending on how your stand is setup, here is another thought for you.
We mounted one on each leg leveler in each corner of our in-wall stand and they worked out great. The adjustment was easy and allowed for very subtle changes in how the stand was sitting.
-Doug
We mounted one on each leg leveler in each corner of our in-wall stand and they worked out great. The adjustment was easy and allowed for very subtle changes in how the stand was sitting.
-Doug
bheron
Active member
LittleBlueGT
New member
I think hardboard shims are good, just use large pieces.
BTW I would accept 1/8 inch over 6 feet. Nothing more! 7/8 is horrible, completely unacceptable, disgusting. Only one overflow would actually work. The ideal would be 1/32 or less.
BTW I would accept 1/8 inch over 6 feet. Nothing more! 7/8 is horrible, completely unacceptable, disgusting. Only one overflow would actually work. The ideal would be 1/32 or less.
bheron
Active member
Thanks. Thats how I feel. I originally had like 1/16" and was fine. I think almost a full inch is a joke, too. My contractor loves to argue and knows nothing about this. I told him I would get back to him AFTER I went to RC!
Thanks for the vote of confidence. Right now, hardboard shims it is. (BTW - for anyone interested, go back a few pages and check out weatherson's suggestion on leveling. truly ingenous, but i dont know if I'll be able to try it).
Thanks for the vote of confidence. Right now, hardboard shims it is. (BTW - for anyone interested, go back a few pages and check out weatherson's suggestion on leveling. truly ingenous, but i dont know if I'll be able to try it).
Well, surely your contractor should be able to pull off Weatherson's suggestion right? I mean, if he's really worth his salt! :lol:
I think the shims will be fine, but I'm not a contractor and dont know wood like folks who work it all day. I just know that the shim cant go anywhere if it's being compressed underneath the stand. Mass doesnt just disappear. Course if enough saltwater wore it away over the years, yeah, I could see them losing mass and un-leveling your stand, but all you gotta do is shove another one in there (with the tank empty of course).
I think the shims will be fine, but I'm not a contractor and dont know wood like folks who work it all day. I just know that the shim cant go anywhere if it's being compressed underneath the stand. Mass doesnt just disappear. Course if enough saltwater wore it away over the years, yeah, I could see them losing mass and un-leveling your stand, but all you gotta do is shove another one in there (with the tank empty of course).
LittleBlueGT
New member
Keep in mind the stand is made out of wood, will it shrink? Just get a shim that covers the whole area.
Knyght
New member
I surf the big tank forum occasionally to get my fix and drool, 
then came across your thread. I can tell that you have done alot of planning and researching before starting. :thumbsup:
Just for kicks I am going to use the line that Melev get`s a kick out of.
Tagging Along! :bum:
Can`t think of anything useful to comment about except Weatherson`s suggestion for leveling. That is by far the best option longterm. The stand will be 100% supported on the bottom, so no compression of shims to worry about. I would not want the tank to be out of level more than 1/16" over 6`.
Keep us updated. Now I`m off to subscribe to jarhead`s thread as well
:beachbum:
then came across your thread. I can tell that you have done alot of planning and researching before starting. :thumbsup:Just for kicks I am going to use the line that Melev get`s a kick out of.
Tagging Along! :bum:
Can`t think of anything useful to comment about except Weatherson`s suggestion for leveling. That is by far the best option longterm. The stand will be 100% supported on the bottom, so no compression of shims to worry about. I would not want the tank to be out of level more than 1/16" over 6`.
Keep us updated. Now I`m off to subscribe to jarhead`s thread as well
:beachbum:
Briankook
New member
bheron, your setup is looking great. Your exhaust fan is set up exactly like mine. I also have a humidistat, but I don't even need to use the controller, it just stays on all the time. I use the on/off switch instead.
Here is my setup, very similar: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=432971
Here is my setup, very similar: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=432971
melev
Well-known member
Well, this is really not going to sound like the way I typically post, but your contractor is full of crap! OMG!
If he thinks a 6' span can be off by almost an inch, imagine what your entire house's span is off? Is the roof down 4" on one end of your home, and considered "within acceptable limits"???????
I can't even fathom construction that is 1" off, unless it was just a glaring error. And even at that, this is easily remedied with a few new pieces of wood.
Using plastic shims repetitively would disperse the weight over a larger area. When homes are leveled, oak shims are used because of their hardness and tend to handle humidity and resist the tiny teeth of termites.
Floating the floor with a concrete bed to get everything level from the ground up is great, but your stand is already built. It's too late for that, right?
Feel free to tell you contractor that Melev's P.O.'d. I bet that will get him to shape up quick! 
:lol:
If he thinks a 6' span can be off by almost an inch, imagine what your entire house's span is off? Is the roof down 4" on one end of your home, and considered "within acceptable limits"???????
I can't even fathom construction that is 1" off, unless it was just a glaring error. And even at that, this is easily remedied with a few new pieces of wood.
Using plastic shims repetitively would disperse the weight over a larger area. When homes are leveled, oak shims are used because of their hardness and tend to handle humidity and resist the tiny teeth of termites.
Floating the floor with a concrete bed to get everything level from the ground up is great, but your stand is already built. It's too late for that, right?
Feel free to tell you contractor that Melev's P.O.'d. I bet that will get him to shape up quick!
:lol:Somethin ain't right one inch off level the concrete in your basement will have a little slope to it not an inch over 6 feet. So your paying this guy he should build it level each leg should have been cut to follow the contour of the basement floor,keeping the top level.
I know you prolly don't want to fall out with him as contractors are hard to come by but he needs to do his job.
An eight of an inch is aceptable prolly a little less as he is useing a chop saw .
and maybe a new level.
I know you prolly don't want to fall out with him as contractors are hard to come by but he needs to do his job.
An eight of an inch is aceptable prolly a little less as he is useing a chop saw .
and maybe a new level.
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