220 Inwall - Plan

[bheron]

Marc - "I would basically endeavor to fill in every void I could. If you have a chop saw (or compound miter saw) on hand, use it to cut the exact thicknesses you need. Basically create wafers and position them one after another along all of the base of the stand. Since the woodwork looks rather thick, you might even consider using a 4x4 post to create your shims. If you opted to use treated lumber, that could only be a plus even if the stuff is so thin. It is more water resistant."

- What about using some 2x4 pressure treated wood to cut the shims/wafers? I can definitely do that and have access to my own chop saw - well its borrowed but I have it nonetheless! So I would cut custom sized shims to fill all the gaps. I should probably coat them in the Kilz stuff, too?

"I used foam under my tank because Mitch at Interamerican told me to do so. He made my tank, so I felt his advice was the one to follow. Check with your aquarium maker and get their thoughts."

-I'll look into it more. I'll start with the mfr. Actually, its an All-Glass but I heard they were bought by Oceanic? I've contacted All-Glass before so maybe I'll start there.


Ribs - thanks for the compliments. 6 mos from now this sucker will be in full swing! yes! And, to your question - good one. No, I dont have a dedicated drain in the tank room area. Really bummer b/c I'm terrifed of a large leak incident that'll cause water to flow over into the newly finished room with brand new carpet.

I'm going to follow the advice of some others and create some really good seals around the base of the room to, hopefully, keep any water in the room. Then, I'm hoping the water will either 1) seep into the cement floor a bit, or 2) get pushed to the edge of the room where there's a small 1/2" gap between the foundation and the cement wall. Not sure if that'll do much, but anything to keep it away from the carpet in the other room!

EDIT: also, just remembered that I'll have a sump pump in the room that will be used in the drain for my wash tub. So, I'm thinking, in an emergency with alot of water I could always drop the pump onto the floor of the room and get rid of water that way. Hmmmmmm, maybe I'll build in a branch off the drainage PVC to connect the pump just in case?!


Oh! And fortunately I have extyensive experience with minor/medium spills on the carpet in our other house with my 75g. My skills are honed enough to be able to address/remedy/hide alot of spills I'll come into! Lets just hope they are a minimun!~

Jeff - your comment will be used as a last resort to my wife in case of a really BIG spill. I'll write it on my hand just in case

 

[melev]

Yes, 2x4 shims would be just as good. Install them (glue) to all spots where they will go, make sure you are completely happy, then the next day Kilz over everything so that it is water proof.

Are you going to run a bead of silicone along the base of the wall in the fish room, to avoid water seeping under it and into the new carpeting? Weatherson explained that to me when I was doing my room. I installed baseboard, and ran silicone on the top edge where it meets the wall and along the base where it touches the concrete flooring.

 

[weatherson]

Utilizing this sump pump seems a very viable option. Although, I know little of these being in California. Is it simply a housing sunk in the floor with a pump and a automatic control switch? When on, does it then pump the fluid to a sewer line elsewhere?

 

[bheron]

Melev - "Yes, 2x4 shims would be just as good. Install them (glue) to all spots where they will go, make sure you are completely happy, then the next day Kilz over everything so that it is water proof."

-I was thinking to Kilz the 2x4s first so that the underside of each piece was protected?

"Are you going to run a bead of silicone along the base of the wall in the fish room, to avoid water seeping under it and into the new carpeting?"

-I was planning on doing something like this. I saw where tylergunn used like a rubber type baseboard. Would that be better? I know Joseph sealed his, too.
- What would I use to seal between the baseboard and the cement floor? Would silicone bond to cement?

Weatherson - "Utilizing this sump pump seems a very viable option. Although, I know little of these being in California."

-Arent you lucky!! I'm guessing. I know basements arent common there, does that mean no flooding either? Here in PA sump pumps and floodinf are common, so is the word "water table" which I learned a littel about. I've become a sump pump pro b/c of all of the new housing development in recent years around here!

"Is it simply a housing sunk in the floor with a pump and a automatic control switch? When on, does it then pump the fluid to a sewer line elsewhere?"

- Yep, thats it. Except that mine isnt sunk in the floor. Under my wash basin I'll have a plastic holding tank (like 5-10 gallons) that will house the refuse from the sink drain. In there is a sump pump with a float switch - kind of like a bulb that automates the operation.

Here's what were looking at.

That black bulb on the left is the float. Pretty reliable, but not 100%.

Side note: If you have them built into your basement for flooding purposes around here, the builder will build in a 2-3 foot deep pit for the pump to rest in. Usually, b/c of the "water table" alot of pits stay full 24/7. Then, if it ever rises, the pump turns on.

Also, in the pic, you can see it pulls the water from the lower/bottom part of the pump.

So I'm thinking maybe I could build the pump into the holding tank so that it could easily be disconnected, lifted out of the tank, placed on the floor, and then re-connected to the drain pipe. Since the pump pulls from the bottom, I think it might do a good job at quickly emptying a puddle of water.

Thoughts or just a crazy idea?

 

[melev]

To be honest, if you have a leak or a flood from your tank, it will probably be 1/4" to 1/2" of water, and a shop vac will suck up 20g at a time. That can be dumped into your wet sink, and repeat as necessary.

I'm pretty sure the sump pump you showed us won't be able to suck the floor dry as it needs to be submerged enough to create the siphon necessary to push water up through the motor.

Regarding Kilz and the shims.... just do all that you can see once it is installed.

For the baseboard, yes, silicone will bond with clean concrete. You can use a compressor to blow away any dust, then a damp rag (not wet) to get anything that was remaining. Run a nice 3/8" bead and make sure you don't leave any gaps. You can run a finer bead on the top of the rubber baseboard, and smooth it with your finger.

 

[ribs]

I had asked about the drain not to be alarmist or anything!!
The pitch (unlevel floor) mentioned earlier coincides with the slope used on a floor that has a drain or sump pit. I believe a plumber may know exactly, but I think a floor w/drain would pitch about 1/4" per foot, giving you 1.5" or so difference across a 6' span. That was where the question came from
But now since you're already covering this base, and the room may already have the proper pitch, would putting a dedicated sump pit (like the one you mentioned above) in that room at the low-spot be worth the cost/effort to you? I doubt it, unattended spill control is nice but quite the luxury item. Sealing the perimeter like is being mentioned will probably cover most water damage, as long as the threshold in the doorway is high enough (and sealed as mentioned above).

Additional comment, I end up running the ceiling exhaust fan all the time. It's an energy efficient, low sonnes (pricey) design like the one you've pictured so I don't mind running it continuous, I feel the fish room is just about always at a different atmosphere condition than the adjacent areas and the exhaust will help balance the rooms preventing and extracting as much moisture buildup as possible. Over time, IMO even slightly elevated salty moisture will ruin my pricey fixtures and metal items in there. Basically, my point is with any thermostat/humidistat you end up with, make sure there's an override so you can be the boss.

 

[bheron]

Marc - cool, thanks re: the baseboard.

Q: Do you think that water on the cement floor will seep deep into the cement or will it go shallow, under the baseboard, and absorb into the carpeting?

I know I'm just being paranoid but I'd like to try to predict before it happens. Damage control!

Also, I do own a shop vac so I'll have to make sure thats kept nearby. Good one! You could be dead on about the sump pump and its low level point. I know in the container it sits in it usually gets down to about 1/2 inch of water.

I'll follow your steps on the sealing of the baseboard.

Ribs - no worry on alarm. I'm being over cautious about this whole thing, if you havent noticed already :rollface:

Good point about sealing the whole perimeter, inc the doorway. Didnt think of that one!

And, for the time being, the exhaust fan will be on a timer with a manual override. Couldnt afford the humidistat at the current time. Good to hear how you use yours. Not sure how much power it would consume to have it on all the time.

 

[melev]

It would probably seep down rather than travel laterally into the carpeted section.

 

[Muligan]

If the floor is unfinished it will seep a bit but depending on how much you spill. Like forgeting about a ro unit filling a water jug and And the next thing you know you got a flood...lol It won't seep fast enough so I would silicone all around the baseboard or any other areas where something meets the floor then at least if you spill something it will only be able to get out through the door opening or seep through the concrete.(providing the concrete isn't sealed)


As for your shims you could cut a 2x4 the lenght of the support and then just measure from nothing to the amount your floor is out and cut a one piece wedge seal it and slide it under.(using a skill saw)

 

[bheron]

Marc - "It would probably seep down rather than travel laterally into the carpeted section."

- I'm hoping small spills will. Thx.

Muligan - "It won't seep fast enough so I would silicone all around the baseboard or any other areas where something meets the floor then at least if you spill something it will only be able to get out through the door opening or seep through the concrete.(providing the concrete isn't sealed)"

- Good point. Thanks. The door opening will also have carpet on the outside as well.

Also, I'll have to come up with a creative way to seal under my stand, which is one of the walls to the outside room (see pick below)

Those darker 2x4s at the base (pressure treated) have since been removed so I'll have to run the baseboard around the inside frame I guess.


Thanks for the input!

The basement is getting painted this week, and will be finished this time next week!

Any suggestions on paint type for the fish room?

 

[melev]

Blue! :lol:

 

[bheron]

no, green!!

I MEANT, being the over-paranoid-planning-obsessor that I am, should I coat the greenboard with a special protectant?

Right now they're going to prime it and paint it the beige type color that my wife chose for the rest of the basement. Or I could have them paint it the green she chose for the gym. Either way that wont cost me extra $$$. A different paint would, or of cource painting it myself with something special would make me get off my a$$!

 

[weatherson]

I'd suggest the best quality enamel paint you can afford. Similar to what is used in kitchens and baths where water is present. A couple of coats would be best as well.

Joseph

 

[bheron]

Ah, thats what I was wondering. i mean, ive come this far so why not lock out the water ONE MORE TIME, right?

yea, i figure this drywall will soak up several layers, so i'll let the workers put a couple on, then i'll layer it up with enamel.

thanks

 

[Briankook]

bheron, please let me know if you would like to see my setup in person. Maybe you can get some new ideas on what to do & what "not" to do. I live about 45 mins. from Valley Forge. Just an idea. (following your thread)

Brian

 

[bheron]

Hey Brian, that might be a great idea. You live up 422 I guess?
Are you in the SV-SEA? Next time I'm up that way I might take you up on it!

Of course, when mine's up the likewise is extended.

 

[Briankook]

Bryan, yes I am a member of SV-SEA. I live right next to Reading. Hopefully I can make the next meeting.

Just pm me if you want to meet.

Keep up the good work.

 

[bheron]

Brian - I think I've seen pics of your setup on the SVSEA website before.

 

[bheron]

Hi all, I set aside a piece of pressure treated 2x4 for my custom shims we talked about above.

quick question: I know that pressure treated wood can warp and swell, etc over time. Would this same thing happen if I used it to cut my mini-shims / wafers? Would I be better off using regular 2x4?

 

[melev]

You don't have to worry about shims swelling to that degree. Plus the immense weight will keep things as is.