2300G Cylinder - Preview
- Thread starter Diablo
- Start date
Fantastic house plan and aquarium!! I agree with a previous comment about locating the equipment room in the basement. I made this decision when building my measly 240g (yes, about 1/10 the size of yours...) and love it. No mess on the main floor, very quiet, easy water changes. Anyway, I will definitely follow along to watch your progress. Are you thinking reef or fish only? You could probably build an entire island with a vacation home in there!!
Chihuahua6
Premium Member
Ummm okay.
Great floor plan though.
Diablo,
Looks like a great project!
You are correct that the pneumatic valves are used for speed of operation. Once you go above 2" valves, the electric actuators take several minutes.
The pneumatics open in 2 seconds. I like butterfly valves above 3". More compact and faster to operate. I normally use air actuated / spring return. This saves compressor kW.
Just set your level switches to close the valve before it sucks air and you will have a silent surge. Dont forget the emergency overflow in the head tank just in case.
LMK if you have any ?s
Chris
Looks like a great project!
You are correct that the pneumatic valves are used for speed of operation. Once you go above 2" valves, the electric actuators take several minutes.
The pneumatics open in 2 seconds. I like butterfly valves above 3". More compact and faster to operate. I normally use air actuated / spring return. This saves compressor kW.
Just set your level switches to close the valve before it sucks air and you will have a silent surge. Dont forget the emergency overflow in the head tank just in case.
LMK if you have any ?s
Chris
nauticac4
Baby Fish Wrangler
Like H20ENG said the speed of operation for the valves is the main reason. Also most people like to keep as much electricity away from water as possible.
This will be an awesome build house and all...Kinda disappointed it will take until 09 to finish but it will be great no doubt.
This will be an awesome build house and all...Kinda disappointed it will take until 09 to finish but it will be great no doubt.
Thanks H2OENG, very much appreciate your advice. I will have 2 x 80 Gallon surge tanks. I want to use 4" butterflies, so it looks like it will have to be pneumatic. I didn't really want to go down the compressor path, but it seems like it is required for adequate operation.
I must confess to taking a lot of convincing to move away from a rectangular tank. It ended up coming down to getting more tank for my budget. To build what I originally wanted in acrylic (157" x 79" x 48") [4m x 2m x 1.2m) was going to cost about double, because of my manufacturers desire to use 3" [80mm] acrylic.
The tank below by Peter van Suijlekom gave me a hint as to what I migh be able to achieve.
In Highton, not too far away from the shopping center.
Sorry Chihuahua6. As an Australian, you have to expect me to say strange things from time-to-time.
I must confess to taking a lot of convincing to move away from a rectangular tank. It ended up coming down to getting more tank for my budget. To build what I originally wanted in acrylic (157" x 79" x 48") [4m x 2m x 1.2m) was going to cost about double, because of my manufacturers desire to use 3" [80mm] acrylic.
The tank below by Peter van Suijlekom gave me a hint as to what I migh be able to achieve.
In Highton, not too far away from the shopping center.
joshallan86
New member
looks like it's going to be amazing when its finished, the only thing I'm not excited about is that I have to wait for a year to see it up and running.. Keep us updated with any pictures or info that you get along the way!
Josh
Josh
Chihuahua6
Premium Member
It's not an Aussie thing. Plenty of people here like to brag about their income as well. It just rubs people the wrong way. Sorry I just had to mention that.
I do like the floor plan as I said. I have a one story house that I was very involved with in the building process. I enjoy architecture and especially how it relates to function so I can appreciate your home design.
The valves dont use much air at all, so you can use a small compressor. They need about 80psi.
Plus, you can remote mount the compressor in a garage or shop to keep the noise down, then simply run 1/2" poly tubing to the control solenoid and valve. I ran the tubing about 200' from our buildings main air compressor, so I mounted a new air receiver as well.
LMK if you need a hand with the controls. Its easy and I can walk you through it. Pics of several surges on my website (red house).
Large cylinders do not have the visual distortion that smaller ones do, so your tank will be great.
I'd love to see more of the tank you just posted!
Have fun,
Chris
Plus, you can remote mount the compressor in a garage or shop to keep the noise down, then simply run 1/2" poly tubing to the control solenoid and valve. I ran the tubing about 200' from our buildings main air compressor, so I mounted a new air receiver as well.
LMK if you need a hand with the controls. Its easy and I can walk you through it. Pics of several surges on my website (red house).
Large cylinders do not have the visual distortion that smaller ones do, so your tank will be great.
I'd love to see more of the tank you just posted!
Have fun,
Chris
atwinparadox2
New member
I have my bags packed and ready to move into your sweet new home whenever it's ready!! Just kidding.... Going to be an excellent build!
RE: Basement... this is not common building practice in Australia (or at least not where I live). Not sure why this is the case? But I am keen to avoid the cost and risk associated with asking builders to do what they're not comfortable with. I am happy enough with most of my noisy equipment in the outside processing room.
My intention for lighting is to use 6 x 1000W 14,000K lamps, as well as natural light.
I hope that in the summer, natural light will meet >80% of the needs, and in winter, maybe 50%. I should be able to save 40% - 50% on lighting.
I intend to use a PAR meter hooked up to a controller to monitor the lighting incident on the tank over the day, and to schedule enough MH lighting to meet the needs all year round.
As for the round shape, like H2OENG says, the size should minimise the distortion, although I am a little worried about this.
À votre bon coeur!
My intention for lighting is to use 6 x 1000W 14,000K lamps, as well as natural light.
I hope that in the summer, natural light will meet >80% of the needs, and in winter, maybe 50%. I should be able to save 40% - 50% on lighting.
I intend to use a PAR meter hooked up to a controller to monitor the lighting incident on the tank over the day, and to schedule enough MH lighting to meet the needs all year round.
As for the round shape, like H2OENG says, the size should minimise the distortion, although I am a little worried about this.
Here is my hydraulic plan for comment. Unlike the architecture, where I don't have too much room to move at this stage, I am very open to suggestion here. I will try to capture US Gallon and feet units on this drawing tonight. Blue shaded area is inside house.
I have observed the following principles.
1) Everything must have built in redundancy. The circulation system of an aquarium is like our heart & lungs... failure results in catastrophe pretty quickly.
2) Must use the lowest possible energy. I am not very happy that I can't gravity feed the skimmer from the main tank, but I have too little head.
If anyone is wondering why I have gone with 4" drain from the main tank to the sump, it is because I have to move 7000 Gal/hr 100 horizontal feet with only 3.5' head. Requires fat pipe. The reason I have 2 of them is so that I can switch active pipes for cleaning (i.e. soaking in vinegar for a couple of days). When you are running pipe through concrete foundations, you have to plan for a means of cleaning that does not involve tearing the house down.
The pump brand I have selected (Finish Thompson DB series) are magnetic drive and very high quality. They also have a very broad selection of operating points (flow & head).
"Filter" under the quarantine tanks is actually a combination of UV & ozone.
I have observed the following principles.
1) Everything must have built in redundancy. The circulation system of an aquarium is like our heart & lungs... failure results in catastrophe pretty quickly.
2) Must use the lowest possible energy. I am not very happy that I can't gravity feed the skimmer from the main tank, but I have too little head.
If anyone is wondering why I have gone with 4" drain from the main tank to the sump, it is because I have to move 7000 Gal/hr 100 horizontal feet with only 3.5' head. Requires fat pipe. The reason I have 2 of them is so that I can switch active pipes for cleaning (i.e. soaking in vinegar for a couple of days). When you are running pipe through concrete foundations, you have to plan for a means of cleaning that does not involve tearing the house down.
The pump brand I have selected (Finish Thompson DB series) are magnetic drive and very high quality. They also have a very broad selection of operating points (flow & head).
"Filter" under the quarantine tanks is actually a combination of UV & ozone.
