24 gal aqua pod sh tank

spskid01

New member
I am new to the sea horse seen. I would like to use a 24 gal aqua pod to house a pair of Kuda or Raidis and maybe a pipe fish.

Is this a good choice? I have started to read up on sh tanks here on rc. But was wondering what is the best way to set this tank up and what all needs to be done.

This tank is for enjoyment only I am not looking to raise any of these as I'm having a hard enough time just trying to figure out how to set up the tank.
 
Most PnP's have some intrinsic problems when used as SH setups. Here is an older post of mine that is "stickied" over on the org:

Ever since their inception, it seems as if this question has been asked with an increasing frequency. As the owner of four such systems, three JBJ Nanocubes and an Aquapod, i feel i can speak first-hand/real life on the issue.

1. 8's, 12's, 14's are all too small for SH, unless you plan to keep dwarf SH. you need at LEAST a 24, 28, or 34 gal.

THE FIX:

there's no getting around the size issue...you need a large enuff tank, whether it's a plug 'n' play (hereafter, PNP) or a regular system.

2. ALL of these systems typically run at 80*F, which is at least 6*F too warm even for tropical SH. this is a very important factor, as SH tend to be prone to bacterial infections, especially at warmer temps due to an increase in bacterial count. you may hear "SH are found in 80*F water in the wild", but you must remember that the bacterial concentration in a closed system is infinitely greater than that of the ocean.

THE FIX:

get a chiller. this is the best and most reliable way to go.

there is an Integrated Chill Assist (ICA) offered by NANOTUNERS, however, this is a tuff mod to acomplish, and it's not really a true chiller in the sense it runs 24/7 and there's no temp set. what it does is cool the tank down at night to give you a lower "baseline" temp in the AM.

however, you can get a temp reduction of about 2*F-3*F by swapping out the stock pump for a cooler-running model (e.g. get a pump that consumes fewer Watts). this will also help with the flow problem (see #3). i've found that Maxi-Jets are a good bet here. it only takes about 10 mins to swap out the pump. depending on your flow scheme, a MJ 400 or MJ 600 are good choices.

also, if you have one of the "open sump" designs where the top of the filtration area is open, run a fan over it. leave the "feeding lid" open. if you have a glass covered HQI model, remove the cover and run a fan over the water surface to increase evaporative cooling.

3. the flow in these systems is too high.

THE FIX:

you can replace the stock pump with a lower flow model (if you choose a lower "wattage" pump, this will also help with the temp, see #2). you can also split the reutrn by removing the stock nozzle (it just pulls off) and adding a locline Y connector and the fittings of your choice to split the flow up. this also helps with being able to direct the flow to remove dead spots.

PROS

the PNP tanx go up quickly and easily, and they make VERY pretty tanx. they're also compact and fit nicely where space is an issue.

hopefully, this will answer the most FAQ regarding these tanx.

 
Most PnP's have some intrinsic problems when used as SH setups. Here is an older post of mine that is "stickied" over on the org:

Ever since their inception, it seems as if this question has been asked with an increasing frequency. As the owner of four such systems, three JBJ Nanocubes and an Aquapod, i feel i can speak first-hand/real life on the issue.

1. 8's, 12's, 14's are all too small for SH, unless you plan to keep dwarf SH. you need at LEAST a 24, 28, or 34 gal.

THE FIX:

there's no getting around the size issue...you need a large enuff tank, whether it's a plug 'n' play (hereafter, PNP) or a regular system.

2. ALL of these systems typically run at 80*F, which is at least 6*F too warm even for tropical SH. this is a very important factor, as SH tend to be prone to bacterial infections, especially at warmer temps due to an increase in bacterial count. you may hear "SH are found in 80*F water in the wild", but you must remember that the bacterial concentration in a closed system is infinitely greater than that of the ocean.

THE FIX:

get a chiller. this is the best and most reliable way to go.

there is an Integrated Chill Assist (ICA) offered by NANOTUNERS, however, this is a tuff mod to acomplish, and it's not really a true chiller in the sense it runs 24/7 and there's no temp set. what it does is cool the tank down at night to give you a lower "baseline" temp in the AM.

however, you can get a temp reduction of about 2*F-3*F by swapping out the stock pump for a cooler-running model (e.g. get a pump that consumes fewer Watts). this will also help with the flow problem (see #3). i've found that Maxi-Jets are a good bet here. it only takes about 10 mins to swap out the pump. depending on your flow scheme, a MJ 400 or MJ 600 are good choices.

also, if you have one of the "open sump" designs where the top of the filtration area is open, run a fan over it. leave the "feeding lid" open. if you have a glass covered HQI model, remove the cover and run a fan over the water surface to increase evaporative cooling.

3. the flow in these systems is too high.

THE FIX:

you can replace the stock pump with a lower flow model (if you choose a lower "wattage" pump, this will also help with the temp, see #2). you can also split the reutrn by removing the stock nozzle (it just pulls off) and adding a locline Y connector and the fittings of your choice to split the flow up. this also helps with being able to direct the flow to remove dead spots.

PROS

the PNP tanx go up quickly and easily, and they make VERY pretty tanx. they're also compact and fit nicely where space is an issue.

hopefully, this will answer the most FAQ regarding these tanx.


i disagree, i have kept seahorses and pipefish in pretty much all the nano plug and play systems and all of them thrived. also a chiller is probably the least necessary thing for a seahorse tank. unless you live in pheonix where the summers reach 106 degrees youll be completely fine. tropical seahorses live in the same areas we get our tropical fish from so how would it be any different?

there is a bit of flow in these tanks but seahorses handle quite a bit of flow in the wild, i used to say this too that seahorses need practically no flow in their tank but this is entirely false.

to the OP, i would do it, but a seahorses tank is entirely different than a reef tank. you will not want to do the classic rock wall style of rockscaping. probably just a mound of rocks in the middle with some algae and corals to latch onto.
 
both post have really good points. i have a reef tank running but looking for info on the correct way to set up a sh tank like best items to use best type of tank if unable to use a aio. also what sg to run the tank at the more info i can get i think the better chance i will have to have this tank work
 
you will want a taller tank as opposed to a shorter wider one, also just an average salinity of 1.021-1.026 is perfectly fine.
 
tropical seahorses live in the same areas we get our tropical fish from so how would it be any different?

It's all about bacterial count...yes, SH may be found at warmer temps, but at 75*F, the bacterial count in a closed system starts to take off. This is important because SH are very susceptible to bacterial infections.

The ER over on the org gets really busy when seasonal temps warm tanks up, and when you have a system that's already running in the 80*F range, you have no leeway at all. Personally, I think 80*F is too hot for any tank.

Granted, STABILITY goes a long way if you're on the hairy edge, but I prefer not to worry about my SH getting sick, so I run my SH setups (none of which are PnP's) at 74*F max, thank you very much.

BTW, this is even MORE important for a novice SH keeper who is just getting the hang of SH. Once they get some experience, they can decide for themselves how they want to roll and what works for them, but why risk a bad experience that can be easily avoided?
 
i agree on that, but i however do not at all think a chiller is a necessity. i keep all my seahorse tank at 78, and i have never had a parasitic outbreak.
 
I do have a chiller if need be. I am looking for the best tank and conditions to have a tank that lives and not fails.

I am in the start up stage so can find another tank if need be. Just don't want to waste time and money.
 
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