24 led bulbs out?

[xxkenny90xx]

Ok im not sure if I can say the brand here but I've got a reefbreeders photon 48 (evergrow) fixure and 24 of the blues went out on one side. Reefbreeders was helpful but I'm still having the issue. I was told by the company that it sounds like a driver but that didn't fix it. Then they offered to sell a new light board for more than this older fixture is worth. I did notice that one of the unlit LEDs looks dark (burnt out), could one bulb make the whole string go out? If so is it possible to bypass the bulb to test it? Any ideas on my next move? I'll attach some pictures. Thanks

 

[xxkenny90xx]

Here is the light fixture

 

[xxkenny90xx]

The suspect led is in the bottom corner

 

[mcgyvr]

Got a multimeter?
Soldering iron?
Skills to desolder?

 

[xxkenny90xx]

I've got a multimeter, a very cheap soldering iron (willing to buy a better one for this) and very limited soldering skills. What are you thinking? Could that one bulb be my issue?

 

[mcgyvr]

I've got a multimeter, a very cheap soldering iron (willing to buy a better one for this) and very limited soldering skills. What are you thinking? Could that one bulb be my issue?

It could be..

I have not checked to see how those specific circuits are setup as I don't have that brand but if there are a bunch of LEDs wired in serial (pretty common) then a single "open" diode would cause that string to not work at all..

 

[oreo57]

Just go under the lens.. bridge the ears (bypassing the diode).. see what happens.

Unplugged you can use an electronic VOM set to Ohms (low scale) or diode.
There is enough voltage (but low current) to light a 3W diode or smaller a wee bit..

you can then check everyone. Just get polarity correct.

https://www.wikihow.com/Test-LED-Lights

Since these are constant current there is no harm bypassing one if you don't want to replace it atm..

 

[oreo57]

Edit time timed out so have to add this:
Keep in mind that;
1) thier drivers have a min and max voltage that they use.. Like 40-90V
IF too many diodes are toast and you just bridge them.you could go under min voltage and the driver won't work
2)browning of violets or UV's is not unusual and sometimes royal blues. It's a lens thing only. Diodes usually work though of course output is horribly decreased.

 

[xxkenny90xx]

Thanks guys that is very helpful, I'll test it when I get home. As far as the testing, do I put my multimeter in the solder on each side of the bulb? And with the unit off the bulb should light up (drawing power from the multimeter)?

 

[oreo57]

Thanks guys that is very helpful, I'll test it when I get home. As far as the testing, do I put my multimeter in the solder on each side of the bulb? And with the unit off the bulb should light up (drawing power from the multimeter)?

Yes but you need the correct polarity..If it doen't light one way do it the other..
Like I said if you find one dead you can always jumper across the one.. or 2.. but there is a limit..

Also they are "relatively" easy to remove and replace..
https://youtu.be/e32nOaD3n_o

10 min mark and beyond..

 

[xxkenny90xx]

Well I did the test, found a dead bulb, bypassed it, and the rest of the light is working great now. Thanks thanks for the help guys, now does anyone know how I can find out which bulb to buy and where to buy it?

 

[oreo57]

Any "bridgelux" "epistar" type egg diodes will do.. 3W class..

Eek bay..
I'd also suggest "heatsink plaster" for your thermal compound.
There are better "glues" but sort of hard to find..
Heat conductive silicone. So sort of a glue.
There are better "glues" but sort of hard to find..


Thermal epoxy also works but more expensive than the diode is worth..

Your color choice is a personal choice..
The blues on the blue channel will most likely be royal blues..

 

[NanoReefWanabe]

Any "bridgelux" "epistar" type egg diodes will do.. 3W class..

Eek bay..
I'd also suggest "heatsink plaster" for your thermal compound.
There are better "glues" but sort of hard to find..
Heat conductive silicone. So sort of a glue.
There are better "glues" but sort of hard to find..


Thermal epoxy also works but more expensive than the diode is worth..

Your color choice is a personal choice..
The blues on the blue channel will most likely be royal blues..

I would think any decent 3w led would work (cree,bridgelux,semi,etc) if it is blue look for 450-455nm.

I am not sure how to remove the chips from the board, but I am sure oreo, or mcgyvr or any number of Google searches could help with that... just make sure you get anode and cathode correct.

 

[oreo57]

I would think any decent 3w led would work (cree,bridgelux,semi,etc) if it is blue look for 450-455nm.

I am not sure how to remove the chips from the board, but I am sure oreo, or mcgyvr or any number of Google searches could help with that... just make sure you get anode and cathode correct.

Well sort of.. easiest if the diode matches the footprint on the board i.e Bridgelux eggs..

Basically desolder metal "wings" and break the egg off the board.
Most twist off.. some try to desolder few succeed in removing the old non-destructively..

Not different from this:
http://scapeclub.org/forum/showthread.php?19336-MOD-Rework-on-a-Beamswork-LED-from-10K-to-6-5K