240 Inwall Construction (Image Intense)
- Thread starter gregt
- Start date
- Status
weatherson
Premium Member
Here's a quick full tank shot I took today. Not the best but it should give a good idea of how the tank is doing.
Joseph
Joseph
i'm at a loss here on the IC thing...
but hopefully we can get an answer from icecap!
i look forward to an explanation. we've got to be looking over something or assuming something incorrectly...
but hopefully we can get an answer from icecap!
i look forward to an explanation. we've got to be looking over something or assuming something incorrectly...
weatherson
Premium Member
whodah: I can see how a difference in voltage could effect the results but not with a variance of that much. I'm interested in what IC has to say.
Joseph
Joseph
weatherson
Premium Member
Compared to...
Volts = 116
Amps = 3.68
Watts = 256
Volt Amps = 424
Note the voltage as I suspected. Any electricians out there to confirm this for me?
just dave: Thanks and yes I am very diligent about keeping any growth from forming on my glass, whether front or back. My rational for this is that I feel it helps to make the corals and such, what we want to be looking at, stand out that much more. In my opinion, the rewards are greater than the time spent.
Joseph
Volts = 116
Amps = 3.68
Watts = 256
Volt Amps = 424
Note the voltage as I suspected. Any electricians out there to confirm this for me?
just dave: Thanks and yes I am very diligent about keeping any growth from forming on my glass, whether front or back. My rational for this is that I feel it helps to make the corals and such, what we want to be looking at, stand out that much more. In my opinion, the rewards are greater than the time spent.
Joseph
countertopguy
New member
Joseph,
Thanks for the reply. I have read both the discussion on this thread and the DIY thread about your RO/DI Cycling. At one time I was going to go with float switches, relays, etc but after studing what you have done I would like to do more of a non-mechanical "gravity and float valve" set up.
I wonder what you think of this...
I "borrowed" this idea from you. It think it was one of the solutions you mentioned when trying to fix your RO/DI cycle. Basically the raised container would allow me to use gravity to feed my sump (on the other side of the house). I would need to use a small pump to send water to the raised container. This will allow me to save some space by using the same RO/DI container to feed the top off and the make up water container.
I'll use a float valve at the sump to keep the water level constant.
Can you (or anybody else) see any major flaws in this?
Thanks for looking
Steve
Thanks for the reply. I have read both the discussion on this thread and the DIY thread about your RO/DI Cycling. At one time I was going to go with float switches, relays, etc but after studing what you have done I would like to do more of a non-mechanical "gravity and float valve" set up.
I wonder what you think of this...
I "borrowed" this idea from you. It think it was one of the solutions you mentioned when trying to fix your RO/DI cycle. Basically the raised container would allow me to use gravity to feed my sump (on the other side of the house). I would need to use a small pump to send water to the raised container. This will allow me to save some space by using the same RO/DI container to feed the top off and the make up water container.
I'll use a float valve at the sump to keep the water level constant.
Can you (or anybody else) see any major flaws in this?
Thanks for looking
Steve
Emster
New member
What your doing here is a very good work. You do everything in exellence and I have learned a geat deal from reading this thread(just finished). My ? is how do you keep the glass clean at the front under the sand? Do you push the sand back and scrape or do you have a tool that does this whithout moving the sand? Thanks for all you have done and keep up the good work.
weatherson
Premium Member
DerekW: Yes, the Mag Scraper from Oceans Motions and the Kent Pro Scrapers. But, with magnet cleanings of the glass every other day, buildup is minimized greatly.
Steve: I see no flaws in this system. Of course, it would require manual manual filling of the large reservoir but with a float valve and ASO valve on your RO/DI unit, it would shut off automatically once it reached the top should you forget. Again, it's better to make fewer, large batches of RO/DI water due to TDS-creep.
You could also utilize a peristaltic pump set slightly higher than your evaporation rate to feed the smaller reservoir from the large holding tank. You could also utilize such a pump with a simple float switch device and pull directly from your large holding tank. But, that's a whole different system.
Emster: I carefully and very slowly use several methods for keeping the sand at the glass clean. I sometimes use the Mag Scraper or the Kent scraper mentioned above or I have some acrylic rod I sometimes use to move and stir up the sand in this area. Just enough to move the layer of sand next to the glass without disturbing too much sand elsewhere. In doing so, I get a nice, clean sand layer and remove the not-so attractive algae discolored look.
Joseph
Steve: I see no flaws in this system. Of course, it would require manual manual filling of the large reservoir but with a float valve and ASO valve on your RO/DI unit, it would shut off automatically once it reached the top should you forget. Again, it's better to make fewer, large batches of RO/DI water due to TDS-creep.
You could also utilize a peristaltic pump set slightly higher than your evaporation rate to feed the smaller reservoir from the large holding tank. You could also utilize such a pump with a simple float switch device and pull directly from your large holding tank. But, that's a whole different system.
Emster: I carefully and very slowly use several methods for keeping the sand at the glass clean. I sometimes use the Mag Scraper or the Kent scraper mentioned above or I have some acrylic rod I sometimes use to move and stir up the sand in this area. Just enough to move the layer of sand next to the glass without disturbing too much sand elsewhere. In doing so, I get a nice, clean sand layer and remove the not-so attractive algae discolored look.
Joseph
weatherson
Premium Member
I figure it's time for an update as it's been a while. At this point, I am just letting the corals grow... mostly. I was lucky enough to have acquired Red Bugs so this last week, I treated my tank for them with Interceptor. I'd debated long and hard after finding the three Dragon-Face Pipefish I added to my tank weren't eradicating these little pests. It did appear that they were keeping them in check and perhaps even making headway but not nearly as quick as I would have liked. Several of my SPS were starting to lose their color so it was time for more drastic measures.
I started by removing all the hermits I could find along with my two Cleaner Shrimp. Of course, the crabs were simply a matter of picking them out but the shrimp were another story. I'd been wanting to make a fish trap for our local club and this was the motivation to finally get it done. With a little enticing with a piece of Prawn on a monofilament line and several attempts, I was finally able to lure both into the trap and closed the doors on them. Food is always a great tool. Here's a shot of the fish trap with its food tube and two doors controlled by monofilament line:
Interestingly, almost every fish entered the trap during the day I left it in the tank for acclimation purposes. This, without even using any food as bait so the trap is a success.
With all but the acro crabs, which unfortunately were irretrievable, and the shrimp out of the tank, it was time for the treatment. I calculated, as close as possible, the water volume and made up enough treatment for the tank. I also had a 50-gallon water-change ready to go as well as two large bags of new carbon. After turning off the air supply on my skimmer, I treated the tank with the Interceptor at 11 AM and began the water change and added the carbon 6-hours later. Within the first couple of hours after adding the treatment, most of my acro crabs were dead.
Ironically, a couple of the hairy acro crabs that I wouldn't have minded losing... survived. At the time of the water-change, no Red Bugs were visible on any of their favorite corals. 
I did a second water-change the following day and replaced the carbon with new. The following day, I added back the shrimp and hermits.
Several days post treatment, still no signs of any bugs. I am seeing a slight bit of Cyanno Bacteria on the sand and a couple areas on some rock. I'm sure this has to do with the lack of hermits and skimmer usage for a couple of days as well as the die-off within the tank. This already seems to be turning around with less showing daily. I'm hoping to not have to do another treatment but time will tell if all the bugs succumbed or not. So far, so good though. :thumbsup:
At this point, I am just letting the corals grow... mostly. I was lucky enough to have acquired Red Bugs so this last week, I treated my tank for them with Interceptor. I'd debated long and hard after finding the three Dragon-Face Pipefish I added to my tank weren't eradicating these little pests. It did appear that they were keeping them in check and perhaps even making headway but not nearly as quick as I would have liked. Several of my SPS were starting to lose their color so it was time for more drastic measures.I started by removing all the hermits I could find along with my two Cleaner Shrimp. Of course, the crabs were simply a matter of picking them out but the shrimp were another story. I'd been wanting to make a fish trap for our local club and this was the motivation to finally get it done. With a little enticing with a piece of Prawn on a monofilament line and several attempts, I was finally able to lure both into the trap and closed the doors on them. Food is always a great tool.
Here's a shot of the fish trap with its food tube and two doors controlled by monofilament line:
Interestingly, almost every fish entered the trap during the day I left it in the tank for acclimation purposes. This, without even using any food as bait so the trap is a success.
With all but the acro crabs, which unfortunately were irretrievable, and the shrimp out of the tank, it was time for the treatment. I calculated, as close as possible, the water volume and made up enough treatment for the tank. I also had a 50-gallon water-change ready to go as well as two large bags of new carbon. After turning off the air supply on my skimmer, I treated the tank with the Interceptor at 11 AM and began the water change and added the carbon 6-hours later. Within the first couple of hours after adding the treatment, most of my acro crabs were dead.
Ironically, a couple of the hairy acro crabs that I wouldn't have minded losing... survived. At the time of the water-change, no Red Bugs were visible on any of their favorite corals. I did a second water-change the following day and replaced the carbon with new. The following day, I added back the shrimp and hermits. Several days post treatment, still no signs of any bugs. I am seeing a slight bit of Cyanno Bacteria on the sand and a couple areas on some rock. I'm sure this has to do with the lack of hermits and skimmer usage for a couple of days as well as the die-off within the tank. This already seems to be turning around with less showing daily. I'm hoping to not have to do another treatment but time will tell if all the bugs succumbed or not. So far, so good though. :thumbsup:
weatherson
Premium Member
My latest upgrade was my Kalk-reactor. The one I used was simply my first purchased skimmer converted, a Top-Fathom 200AC. This was made from 6" acrylic cylinder to which I added my own top to that had all the fittings to connect the water lines and hold the powerhead cord in a watertight way. Here's an older shot of this make-shift reactor:
This reactor worked well but it was time to make my own design and bring the level of quality up a notch. I started by experimenting with heating and forming some acrylic flat sheet stock. Others here on RC had done so with good results so I gave it a try myself. Here's the form I made from two sheets of Baltic Birch plywood and two sheets of Masonite. I used the Masonite to ensure a sharp, crisp edge where the acrylic starts its bend. Here's a shot of this form in my oven with a heavy duty socket that I used to press the shape. Note that I used my exhaust fan and open windows to prevent any buildup of toxic fumes.
After about 25-minutes of 350-degrees, the 1/4" acrylic was pliable enough. I removed it from the oven and pressed down on the socket to create the shape desired and then used a water spray bottle to mist the hot acrylic. This set it at this shape so it wouldn't spring back towards being flat which it tries hard to do. Once sprayed with cold water, it literally locks in place. I allowed it to cool at this point as seen here:
Here is the end result after removing it from the form. This particular piece would then become the bottom part of my reactor.
This reactor worked well but it was time to make my own design and bring the level of quality up a notch.
I started by experimenting with heating and forming some acrylic flat sheet stock. Others here on RC had done so with good results so I gave it a try myself. Here's the form I made from two sheets of Baltic Birch plywood and two sheets of Masonite. I used the Masonite to ensure a sharp, crisp edge where the acrylic starts its bend. Here's a shot of this form in my oven with a heavy duty socket that I used to press the shape. Note that I used my exhaust fan and open windows to prevent any buildup of toxic fumes.
After about 25-minutes of 350-degrees, the 1/4" acrylic was pliable enough. I removed it from the oven and pressed down on the socket to create the shape desired and then used a water spray bottle to mist the hot acrylic. This set it at this shape so it wouldn't spring back towards being flat which it tries hard to do. Once sprayed with cold water, it literally locks in place. I allowed it to cool at this point as seen here:
Here is the end result after removing it from the form. This particular piece would then become the bottom part of my reactor.
weatherson
Premium Member
Up next, I wanted a dome shaped top for the reactor. This would ensure any air within would be evacuated via the reactor's output line which is located at the top-most point. This next photo is of my first attempt which didn't have quite the dome I was looking for. I since made another using a 8-pound shot put which did a much better job of creating a symmetrical dome. Here's a shot of the first attempt:
I made the new unit also from 6" acrylic tubing and 1/2" acrylic on the bottom and the attached top flange. The incoming RO/DI water enters the reactor via the black line on the right which connects to the John Guest fitting that I made a tapped hole for in the lower plumbing. This way, the incoming water must pass through the calcium hydroxide in addition to the powerhead that is internal and used to mix the solution twice a day for one minute each. The top piece that I made the dome on is of 3/8" acrylic. Here's the finished reactor:
And a closeup of the funnel shaped bottom with associated plumbing:
And a shot of the top dome:
Finally, a shot of the new reactor in place and functioning. I took this shot while the tank's lights were ramping up and only the super actinics were on. This gives it a nice glow, don't you think? I may have to add some blue LED's to my reactor next.
Joseph
I made the new unit also from 6" acrylic tubing and 1/2" acrylic on the bottom and the attached top flange. The incoming RO/DI water enters the reactor via the black line on the right which connects to the John Guest fitting that I made a tapped hole for in the lower plumbing. This way, the incoming water must pass through the calcium hydroxide in addition to the powerhead that is internal and used to mix the solution twice a day for one minute each. The top piece that I made the dome on is of 3/8" acrylic. Here's the finished reactor:
And a closeup of the funnel shaped bottom with associated plumbing:
And a shot of the top dome:
Finally, a shot of the new reactor in place and functioning. I took this shot while the tank's lights were ramping up and only the super actinics were on. This gives it a nice glow, don't you think?
I may have to add some blue LED's to my reactor next.
Joseph
weatherson
Premium Member
I should add that the 1/2" plumbing and valve at the bottom is so I can easily drain out the exhausted calcium hydroxide when needed. I will simply remove the top piece, open the valve and let it drain until it's all drained but leave the remaining Kalkwasser, shut the valve, add fresh to the top and then replace the top piece. I do this currently about once every month and a half.
Joseph
Joseph
weatherson
Premium Member
Marc: Thanks.
whodah: Thanks and yes, 16 wing nuts. 8 probably would have sufficed but they are very easy to remove, I don't have to often and I like overkill. Seriously, with the proper sized bolts, the wing nuts spin off with only about 3 revolutions. I had thought of sanding the mating point/bottom of the top piece to ensure a perfect seat but figured the 16 wing nuts would handle any slight warp. In addition, had I used 1/2" for this piece, I surely would have used only 8 but... 1/2" would have been much more difficult to mold. The 3/8" took all my weight as it was to get it to that shape.
Joseph
whodah: Thanks and yes, 16 wing nuts.
8 probably would have sufficed but they are very easy to remove, I don't have to often and I like overkill. Seriously, with the proper sized bolts, the wing nuts spin off with only about 3 revolutions. I had thought of sanding the mating point/bottom of the top piece to ensure a perfect seat but figured the 16 wing nuts would handle any slight warp. In addition, had I used 1/2" for this piece, I surely would have used only 8 but... 1/2" would have been much more difficult to mold. The 3/8" took all my weight as it was to get it to that shape.Joseph
- Status
