250 watt SE MH lamps compared

[janakaybravo]

That's a lot of light on a 75. I have 2 250's on my 120 and it's plenty for all the sps I could want. Also, you will need a lot of actinics to cancel out all that yellow. But the beauty of this hobby is, if you like it, that's what counts. Who cares what other people like. You will get phenomenal growth with those 6500's. I am currently using 12K Reeflux and it's blue enough that I don't need any actinic supplementation. I use them in the Luminarcs 3's. Maybe my corals don't grow as fast, but still for me I have found what I like.

 

[maxxII]

If you read further in the thread, you'll find that JBNY discovered in the course of his testing that the XM10K's had almost as much PAR as the Iwasaki's, when used with most ballasts, but in some cases actually had more PAR than the Iwasaki's.

I run the XM10K's over my 120, and use actinic VHO's for dawn dusk only...no color supplementation.

a) the most cost efficient fixture available that would do what you want is the ______ and you can order it from

Clarify cost efficient....energy efficient, or least expensive to purchase? Also, you use the term fixture....do you mean complete set up, (Bulbs, reflectors, & ballasts) or do you mean parts to build your own?

If you wondering about ballasts, the best info I could give you is to go to the top of this forum, (Lighting filtration & equipment) and read up on Electric 130's posts about ballasts...very informative.

Nick

 

[jakano]

anyone know what the hamilton 20k bulbs par rating is?

 

[anemoneguy]

i just got one of the iwasakis 14k. i didnt know what to expect, but i really really like it. i tried the mechachrome coral, and didnt seem to get alot of light out of it. that i could see anyway. so i put the iwasaki in the middle of my two ushio 10k and so far i like it. ill give it time to burn in, but if it stays like this i wont need any atinics. they cast a nice crisp light just as bright to the eye as my ushios. the giessmsan didnt. i hope to see some tests on them soon as far as par and color.

 

[ZooZ]

anybody know where I can find the PAR for a Pheonix 250w DE on an ICECAP ballast with pictures?

 

[DarG]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11755261#post11755261 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ZooZ
anybody know where I can find the PAR for a Pheonix 250w DE on an ICECAP ballast with pictures?

http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/

 

[ZooZ]

I've been there but it doesnt show PAR. It shows these variables:
SPECTRUM

Lamp Name

Ballast Name

Shield

PPFD

CCT

Power

Volts

Amps

Efficiency

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11755350#post11755350 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DarG
http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/

 

[DarG]

PPFD is the PAR. CCT is the measured color temp. 0 means it's over the high limit of the test gear. Over 20000K or 22000K I think.

 

[ZooZ]

It had a PPFD of 73. Hows that for growth on an sps tank?

 

[ZooZ]

When it was shielded it was 73 without shielded 90. What does shielded mean?

 

[Radicaljbr]

I am sure this was probably answered some where back in the 100 pages of this post, but I am runing 2 250 Ice Cap ballests with 2 XM 10,000KMs. I am not running any actinics. Do I really have to or is it a more of color preference? Do corals grow or are they healthier with actinics?

 

[jjmcat]

Color preference IMO.

 

[ZooZ]

what does it mean to be shielded or not shielded on sanjays website? Huge difference in PAR without it.

 

[jjmcat]

One is where you have someting blocking the light like glass.

 

[DarG]

For the DE lamps use the shielded numbers. They need to be rin with a glass lens on the fixture to "shield" the UV.
SE lamps are not typically used with the shield as they have built in UV shielding in the outer glass of the bulb itself.

 

[ZooZ]

should all MH have a UV glass shield though? Now Im tempted to remove mine since the PAR is so much higher without it.

 

[JB NY]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11890934#post11890934 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Radicaljbr
I am sure this was probably answered some where back in the 100 pages of this post, but I am runing 2 250 Ice Cap ballests with 2 XM 10,000KMs. I am not running any actinics. Do I really have to or is it a more of color preference? Do corals grow or are they healthier with actinics?

color preference. Don't need it if you don't want it.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11894502#post11894502 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ZooZ
should all MH have a UV glass shield though? Now Im tempted to remove mine since the PAR is so much higher without it.

SE bulbs have a UV shield built into the bulb, DE do not, which is why you need to use a seperate UV shield when using DE bulbs.

 

[DarG]

zooz ... I am assuming that you have double ended bulbs because you state that you have a glass shield. Most single ended fixtures dont even come with the glass shield.
If you are using double ended bulbs do NOT remove the glass shield from your pendants. There is about a 10 - 20% reduction in par with the glass depending on the type of glass and thickness of the glass. But as it has already been stated, the DE bulbs do not have a UV blocking outer glass envelope (well, some do but it is not full protection it is a backup in case the fixture glass breaks). The DE bulbs need to be run behind the glass shield. It's dangerous for you and the UV will quickly burn your corals without the shield in place.

If they are single ended (threaded base at one end) then the glass is not necessary.

 

[ZooZ]

Oh thats very interesting. I did not know that SE have a UV shield built in the bulb. Thanks for the quick tip

 

[Radicaljbr]

Okay, now for the stupid question.

Why do you need to change a bulb? Do these PARS and ranges change with age?