2PM AUG 5 DIY Workshop - RSVP Here
- Thread starter Clown-N-Around
- Start date
hoylecurtis
New member
Christina, the living room was great, thanks for allowing us in.
Mike, I've posted four photos in mygalleries <http://reefcentral.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=158394&thumb=1>
I took the tape off the slits and it still ran backwards very noisely half the time I plugged it in.
Note the nick in the prop in photo 2. It appears that the prop is hitting the end of the stop an not bouncing backwards, but slipping under it and continuing backwards. Likely the stop is too short or it needs to be mounted slightly lower so the prop cannot slit under.
I'll experiment more and let the group know.
Hoyle
Mike, I've posted four photos in mygalleries <http://reefcentral.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=158394&thumb=1>
I took the tape off the slits and it still ran backwards very noisely half the time I plugged it in.
Note the nick in the prop in photo 2. It appears that the prop is hitting the end of the stop an not bouncing backwards, but slipping under it and continuing backwards. Likely the stop is too short or it needs to be mounted slightly lower so the prop cannot slit under.
I'll experiment more and let the group know.
Hoyle
miwoodar
Likey the bikey
Thanks Hoyle - great information and pics!
When idle, how far is your prop from the stopper? How far is the stopper from the shroud cap?
The former should be fine between 1/8 and 1/4 inch. The latter should be as close as possible. Touching would be ideal.
If the prop is too far from the stopper, pull the prop off the current CF tube and replace the tube with a slightly longer one. The superglue is easy to break with a pair of plyers.
I got your address via PM and found the props. I'll drop them in the mail in the coming days.
When idle, how far is your prop from the stopper? How far is the stopper from the shroud cap?
The former should be fine between 1/8 and 1/4 inch. The latter should be as close as possible. Touching would be ideal.
If the prop is too far from the stopper, pull the prop off the current CF tube and replace the tube with a slightly longer one. The superglue is easy to break with a pair of plyers.
I got your address via PM and found the props. I'll drop them in the mail in the coming days.
Zooid
New member
Sometimes I wonder if the problem is a weak maxijet. I have put the shroud with stopper on one maxijet and had to help it go the right direction evertime (everytime! too early for spelling lessons hehe) I started it. When I put the shroud on a different maxijet, it started fine every time.
hoylecurtis
New member
MJmod
MJmod
MaxiJet 1200 mod:
Currently the stop is touching the endcap. The clearance from the prop to the stop is .45 inches, so more than you recommend. My plan was to create a lower stop without removing the current one and try the less than 1/4 inch spacing.
Another variable that comes to mind based on the last post is that the orientation of the prop blade and the magnet poles may have an effect on how the prop hits the stop when going in the wrong direction. When power is off the magnet will rest in one of two positions (180 degrees apart.) The orientation of the prop when stopped may determine how much speed it has when it hits the stop and whether it bounces or slides under. (i.e. when starting is the blade directly under the stop or 90 degrees off.) I'll experiment and let you know.
Hoyle
MJmod
MaxiJet 1200 mod:
Currently the stop is touching the endcap. The clearance from the prop to the stop is .45 inches, so more than you recommend. My plan was to create a lower stop without removing the current one and try the less than 1/4 inch spacing.
Another variable that comes to mind based on the last post is that the orientation of the prop blade and the magnet poles may have an effect on how the prop hits the stop when going in the wrong direction. When power is off the magnet will rest in one of two positions (180 degrees apart.) The orientation of the prop when stopped may determine how much speed it has when it hits the stop and whether it bounces or slides under. (i.e. when starting is the blade directly under the stop or 90 degrees off.) I'll experiment and let you know.
Hoyle
hoylecurtis
New member
I believe that I have been able to solve my MJ mods tendency to start backwards part of the time.
It did not have any relation to the prop orientation to the magnetic poles of the rotor, so that was a red herring.
It seems to be that I put the stop rod too close to the end of the shroud. I measured everything and the diameter of the rod is just such that it does not present enough surface area (I even filed it flat) to prevent the prop sliding under it some of the time. The top shaft holder sticks down from the end cap such that the prop does not hit the stop rod well when positioned so that it touched the end cap (this is how mine turned out.) I put in a temporary stop that was lower in the shroud and was able to get the prop to turn in the correct direction every time. My conclusion is that the center of the stop rod must be .25 inch from the shroud end to have it function correctly.
Hoyle
It did not have any relation to the prop orientation to the magnetic poles of the rotor, so that was a red herring.
It seems to be that I put the stop rod too close to the end of the shroud. I measured everything and the diameter of the rod is just such that it does not present enough surface area (I even filed it flat) to prevent the prop sliding under it some of the time. The top shaft holder sticks down from the end cap such that the prop does not hit the stop rod well when positioned so that it touched the end cap (this is how mine turned out.) I put in a temporary stop that was lower in the shroud and was able to get the prop to turn in the correct direction every time. My conclusion is that the center of the stop rod must be .25 inch from the shroud end to have it function correctly.
Hoyle
