3 Day Blackout/ Still Have Cyano??????

[reefgeezer]

Did I miss the description of your skimmer or GAC reactor? Cyano is often a product of high dissolved organic levels. And yes, it will show up in areas with the lowest flow first. IMO, sucking out the algae, doing aggressive water changes, making sure your skimmer is working well, and using a lot of GAC for a while.

 

[kbriers]

I though Chemi-Clean was just a temporary fix? I don't want to do something that will only act as a band-aid.

 

[Psirex]

I though Chemi-Clean was just a temporary fix? I don't want to do something that will only act as a band-aid.

That is true unless you figure out the cause you can't fix the issues - I'm speaking from experience...

 

[Psirex]

Here is an early pic of mine, it eventually covered most of the sand and a lot of the rock.

I used to believe it was always a nutrient issue with the stuff, now I have my doubts. My tank was very nutrient poor at the time but this stuff can make it's own food and mine came in on a frag, I think, and grew rapidly. I have been running more nutrient rich since killing it and it has not returned but the corals look a lot better.

That is a VERY NICE TANK!!!!

 

[sail33]

I did four NON CHEMICAL things.
Algae turf scrubber to "suck up" the nitrates and phosphates
More cheato in the sump
added a pin cushion urchin
added a sand star


The live rock has been scoured by the urchin and is more white than any other possible color
The star turns the sand and that leaves it as white as a pristine Florida beach.
the other two do a fine job at keeping the growth way down

check this out http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1977420&highlight=algae+turf+scrubber

 

[tkeracer619]

How did you cure the rock and how long have you had the Cyano issue?

 

[Adrnalnrsh]

One more question, I see where a lot of people have .0x PO4 and 0.x for nitrate and I was wondering what kind of test kits were used to get these results?

I have read where the "normal" test kits are not accurate enough to show the true value, so where does the 0.xxx come from? I want to try and get the n/p ratio better as CHSUB said, but I don't want to "nuke" my tank either.

kits exist but they have a range of error/accuracy.

 

[kbriers]

Did I miss the description of your skimmer or GAC reactor? Cyano is often a product of high dissolved organic levels. And yes, it will show up in areas with the lowest flow first. IMO, sucking out the algae, doing aggressive water changes, making sure your skimmer is working well, and using a lot of GAC for a while.

I actually forgot about the skimmer description. I use a SRO 1000 int. I have had it up and running everyday since I started the tank.

As far as GAC, I do have BRS ROX 0.8? (the high capacity, low dust one) but honestly I've never really used it. I don't have a reactor for it, just a bag I put in my sump. I would guess that I've used it maybe 5 times total.

I do use BRS GFO in a tlf phosban reactor. I use 10 tablespoons in it and replace every three weeks or so.

I have to admit, when I set the tank up, I didn't cure the dry rock like you should. I just put it in the tank with new sand and used ammonia to start cycling it. I did this for about 1.5 months before I added my first living creature. I've had the cyano issue for probably 3-4 months but to tell the truth I'm not real sure. I know it has been awhile though.

 

[tkeracer619]

Use Chemi clean.

Follow the instructions.

I don't think you have done anything wrong that would be causing this. Its purely a new tank. That rock is loaded with phosphates from the start and I think that is what gave this a foothold. You are doing the right kinds of things. I am willing to bet once you do the treatment you won't see it again for a while if ever.

 

[kbriers]

OK, I will try that when I get back home.

Thanks again for everything.
Kevin

 

[kbriers]

Are you talking about the Boyd Chemi-Clean? Or is there another specific brand you would recommend?

 

[AcroporAddict]

What most folks that use the "find the root cause" reasoning don't consider is that cyano can eat and grow even in low nutrient systems. As long as you have fish a poopin' and secreting urea, there is food for it to consume.

And the "increase your flow" argument is a big crock of fish poo as well. Cyano can grow on rock in almost any flow situation.

If you use chemiclean or any other red cyano treatment and eliminate it from your system, you will not get it again until you reintroduce it into your reef on a new coral or in the small amount of new water that accompanies any new fish or coral introduction. One cell of it is all it takes. Cyano is not something that is always in your reef system waiting for proper conditions to arise so it can grow. If you kill it with chemiclean or a different treatment, it is gone until we put it back.

 

[tkeracer619]

Yup, Boyd Chemiclean

 

[88rxna]

I tried chemiclean about 3 weeks ago. Left everything as normal except skimmer was removed and gfo taken off line, Didnt make a difference. I think this time im gonna siphon all that i can see on sand bed, then run chemiclean and a black out. This stuff is hard to get rid of!

 

[keithhays]

I thing that what happens frequently because cyano is photosythetic, people tend to treat it like a normal algae which is to focus on nitrates and phosphates which is good to keep very low because it will get consumed by it, but cyano can easily switch to pulling carbon and/or carbon dioxide from the tank for a food supply needing next to no nitrates and phosphates to cover everything in your tank. If you are running everything you need to keep them down either dose kalk to reduce co2 and/or run chemi-clean to make the process quicker.

ps. its is the gas exchange that comes along with the higher flow that helps to rid the tank of it as opposed to just blowing it off the rock which by itself would just relocate it.

 

[kbriers]

OK, again thank all of you for the helpful hints.

On another subject, I've decided that one thing I will do, aside from the Chemi-Clean, is to change my nutrient import/export and the n/p ratio by adding a/or more fish. Currently I have a clownfish, royal gramma, yellow watchman and a midas blenny. I also have a cleaner shrimp, a few various snails and a conch.

What you you recommend as far as more stocking options? I would love to have a wrasse of some kind but, I don't have a top and would rather not have a fish that is more prone to carpet surfing. Any ideas? I just want some opinions as far as compatibility/less prone to skydiving etc....

 

[neuro]

I know everyone says chemiclean but I dosed it the other night. Within 24 hours, I lost 3 chalices, and all of my zoas shut up tight. I think my candy cane is lost too.

My tank did not like it.

 

[fishy888]

I have read and seen in my own tank that cyano likes to grow first on the substrate. I have also read that cyano does not like high alk. That seems to be the case in my reef because if I let alk get down to 8 or 9 the cyano returns. I try to keep it at about 12 dkh. Every system is different however so your mileage may vary.

 

[kbriers]

I know everyone says chemiclean but I dosed it the other night. Within 24 hours, I lost 3 chalices, and all of my zoas shut up tight. I think my candy cane is lost too.

My tank did not like it.

Thats' not what I wanted to hear Sorry for your losses though.

 

[Adrnalnrsh]

Sorry, that sucks!


Have your water changes been pretty consistent?

What are your water params looking like now?



Also Hanna Checker should show your phosphates below 0.

Anytime your phosphates are over .03 ppm it can lead to cyano

When nitrates are less than less than .2 good bacteria that consume nitrates/phosphates and carbon cannot flourish due to lack of nitrates (this is the point of carbon dosing, to feed the good bacteria). As soon as nitrates plummet (when carbon dosing) everyone experience cyano due to too much available carbon and phosphates as there is no more nitrates available for the good bacteria. This means your either running too much carbon for your bioload, so you either a. add to your bioload or b. lower your maintenance dosage. (most people just add GFO to knock out the rest of their phosphates, yet this won't fix SPS when they start fading) In your case its still the same accept your not carbon dosing, but thats not to say you don't have carbon in your system.

Another sign of low nitrates (too low) is when SPS are very pale, faded or pastelling.

This is why ratios are important. Its really a guideline so don't take too literal and chase the exact ratio, but its a good starting point.

I ran bare bottom with bio-pellets and learned this the hard way. I added more fish to my tank and sure enough my SPS colored back up within a few weeks.