brad65ford
New member
Only thing your missing is carbon dosing.
3 years of brown....
- Thread starter redwhiteandblue
- Start date
redwhiteandblue
New member
I have vodka dosed in the past and I did not notice enough be ni fit to keep going with it. Bi pellets add another cost to the system which I'm not willing to make at the moment. Thus 80 gallon is only temporary until I find a new home. Then I will be going with an 8 foot dimension tank. So I want to hold off on equipment until then
brad65ford
New member
Totally agree it's your system just not sure why you asked on a puplic forum for help. Feefing can be expensive part of the hobby. Bio-pellets and marine pure block turned my tank around.
redwhiteandblue
New member
I asked on a forum to see if it's something I'm overlooking and to gather opinions of what I can possibly do. I'm open to any suggestions, just can't justify purchasing equipment for a 100 gallon system, when a year from now I gotta buy stuff for a 300. I've heard many good things about bio pellets and want to give them a shot one day......
I'm aware that reef keeping is expensive and I've spare no expense so far, but at some point what I have has to work.....I see plenty of tanks who run skimmers only and run great!
brad65ford
New member
You've spared no expense so what do you think you've spent. Reason I ask is what cost do you think biopellets would be in your system 5,10 percent of your totally cost? Just saying. I was in the same boat as you recently my missing link to my bb system was bio-pellets (carbon dosing) converting the no4 to coral protein food helped immensely. I see a lot of suggest from people on these forums and normally I don't agree with everyone. Most everyone suggest feeding your coral which I agree just differently. Do you know what your no4 is? You might have food ready for them wanting to convert 
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Redrosetuscan
New member
I have the opposite problem in that I have great colour but not that great growth. For example I have an oz highlighter acro which is toxic green but has grown perhaps a few mm in about 9mths. I do have some which grow at a better rate, but generalY I don't have this insane growth.
I can't work out why this is, my system is fairly stable, something must be right to have good colour and polyp extension but something is creating slower growth.
Just for reference I have a 200g display with about 14 fish, I currently just feed flake, a very large pinch between one and three times a day, however when I was feeding frozen I'm probably doing around 5 cubes a day. I also sporadically use acropower and reef roids. However I do have a nutrient imbalance as acropower made a bit of cyano.
Recently I used a product called coral balance by fauna marin, I was also using their colours range, well I got cyano and when I checked nutrients I found zero nitrate and zero phos! So I'm now trying to get that back up a bit.
I can't work out why this is, my system is fairly stable, something must be right to have good colour and polyp extension but something is creating slower growth.
Just for reference I have a 200g display with about 14 fish, I currently just feed flake, a very large pinch between one and three times a day, however when I was feeding frozen I'm probably doing around 5 cubes a day. I also sporadically use acropower and reef roids. However I do have a nutrient imbalance as acropower made a bit of cyano.
Recently I used a product called coral balance by fauna marin, I was also using their colours range, well I got cyano and when I checked nutrients I found zero nitrate and zero phos! So I'm now trying to get that back up a bit.
tdb320reef
Active member
I didnt read every post and hope I am not repeating what someone mentioned but looking at your corals it seems like an issue with lighting.
It reminds me of when I had a Crack in my radium bulb and everything underneath it turned to this crazy brown and looked very similar.
I would inspect or replace all of your bulbs,par meter and shoot for 300 - 400 par. Since I redid my tank I have had a alk swing high phosphates and some water fluctuation but under the radiums at the mentioned par everything continues to thrive. Also what type of ballast are you running? The wrong ballast can EOL your bulbs prematurely, If not M80 Id swap them. I am going on 10 months and think I can get another 6 on these bulbs. I found that keeping in SPS you want 200-300 min of 8 hours. I run my radium and T5's together for an average of 350 to 400 par for 6 hours and my t5's and leds for an average of 200 par for the other 6 hours.
It reminds me of when I had a Crack in my radium bulb and everything underneath it turned to this crazy brown and looked very similar.
I would inspect or replace all of your bulbs,par meter and shoot for 300 - 400 par. Since I redid my tank I have had a alk swing high phosphates and some water fluctuation but under the radiums at the mentioned par everything continues to thrive. Also what type of ballast are you running? The wrong ballast can EOL your bulbs prematurely, If not M80 Id swap them. I am going on 10 months and think I can get another 6 on these bulbs. I found that keeping in SPS you want 200-300 min of 8 hours. I run my radium and T5's together for an average of 350 to 400 par for 6 hours and my t5's and leds for an average of 200 par for the other 6 hours.
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redwhiteandblue
New member
I just switched to halide two weeks ago. I expect change to happen with the new lights, however I felt as if my issue was a little more than just lighting alone. I have m80 ballasts.
tdb320reef
Active member
I received 10 Colonies from Asia that were brown as they get and within two months they came alive during that time I had all kinds of fluctuation as I swapped my rock and sand.
If I was you I would not make any other changes other then adding a couple T5 Tubes. Your lights will resolve this issue assuming the bulbs are in good order. If you bought it used Id get new ones. If MH are your primary lighting run them for 6 then graduate to 8 hours unless you run Tubes. Also validate your par ratings by my eyes and your pictures they need to be lowered.
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tdb320reef
Active member
Look where MammathReefers (former TOTM) fixtures (Same as ours) were for a reference point and reconcile:
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Reefvet
New member
Acropower IS very powerful stuff. Dose is at the minimum and give it time. I've used it to great effect and to disastrous effect. Small doses really brought out color in a number of LPS and SPS for me. I decided to increase the dosage and wound up with a tank that was way out of balance.
With any color supplement you can't really ever know what's needed and what's not. IF a little helps I'd suggest stay with a little.
I've been keeping SPS for 30 years, reefs for 40+. Acropower is one of the few things I've seen work but then all TLF did was test everyone else's products on the market and create their own mix of what worked. Far from scientific and far from the ideal balance for everyone's tank. IMO.
SpSChief85
New member
You will see good results with the acropower I used it for a good 6 months before trying out alternatives. My suggestion for the first month or so use half the recommended dosing also you might try running the skimmer only during the day and off at night to let the corals feed that is if you feed corals at night or day etc... I agree your corals look more on the pale side. imo they look hungry.
plyle02
Active member
As I read this thread I see countless number of people chiming in with all sorts of products, like it is a miracle cure. Nothing beats the basics when keeping SPS living, let alone thriving with color, I feel some out there, myself once included, get so locked into numbers, that we forget observance. Do I use some myself, yes, is it necessary, NO... I use coloring products and carbon source and bacteria additions more of a fine tuner, kind of like using an equalizer in stereo equipment, to fine tune your music to suit your style and listening experience. I believe that all you have to do is give your lighting a chance, once you get the corals to show signs of true color and you have been stable in params and nutrients, then maybe tweak with some of the coloring agents. Based on all the info you have provided, and the personal experience I have had with led corals, I think once you settle in with the halides, you will be very pleased, the best of the best bulb in halides, IMO. I also agree to add 2 to 4 t5 tubes, they will accent your reef nicely, you can run 7 hours on halides, 10 using t5's dusk to dawn, and led as a bonus. I truly believe that led's work, however, I feel that you need more than recommended, and a certain level of knowledge to make them work. I am happy blasting my tank with t5's and running a chiller, but I am sort of old school like that I give it a week or 2, you will see change in the tissue colors, usually starts with gentle and subtle changes in the hues. Best of luck!
I give it a week or 2, you will see change in the tissue colors, usually starts with gentle and subtle changes in the hues. Best of luck!
ksicard
New member
Instead of using some sort of supplement just go the all natural method and just buy more fish and feed them 2-3x daily with frozen. This has never failed me as a solution to low nutrients. The problem I see with a supplement solution, which can work, however if you ever stop dosing the supplement for any length of time you go right back to pale corals. Personally I get lazy with my coral supplements/food, I start off feeding it religiously but I always slowly get off track and then end up just using that supplement/coral food once in a blue moon.
Basically don't over think the problem. Double digits worth of people have said that it is a low nutrient problem, so my advice is to get some more fish and feed them till they are fat and happy and in return they feed the coral from food/fish poop.
Cheers mate, and hopefully this all works out for you and get those corals to color up.
Basically don't over think the problem. Double digits worth of people have said that it is a low nutrient problem, so my advice is to get some more fish and feed them till they are fat and happy and in return they feed the coral from food/fish poop.
Cheers mate, and hopefully this all works out for you and get those corals to color up.
Moser
Active member
I agree with nutrient starved, but not by too much.
Use ATI lights- Tried and tested!
I also had low potassium and low Iodine. I use Aquaforest products.
Their Iodum and Kalium made a huge difference to my blues and reds.
In your case, I would use their coral V and coral A
Aminos and vitamins. start low and build up- fantastic products, but strong, so start slowly.
You should also try their Iodine and potassium- I bet they help you. Iodine helps corals detoxify against free radicals- these promote coral bleaching- and is part of the reason why sick corals die. Start slow with Iodine, especially if you have a little cyano.
Mo
Use ATI lights- Tried and tested!
I also had low potassium and low Iodine. I use Aquaforest products.
Their Iodum and Kalium made a huge difference to my blues and reds.
In your case, I would use their coral V and coral A
Aminos and vitamins. start low and build up- fantastic products, but strong, so start slowly.
You should also try their Iodine and potassium- I bet they help you. Iodine helps corals detoxify against free radicals- these promote coral bleaching- and is part of the reason why sick corals die. Start slow with Iodine, especially if you have a little cyano.
Mo
redwhiteandblue
New member
I want to thank everyone on this thread for their contributionso
My plan of action: starting simple....
I knew this one already, but before making any changes, I'm going to run the halide another couple weeks longer since they are only two weeks old. I knew the color wouldn't change that quick but I wanted opinions on what else could be done.
Cross checked alk and cal today with differvent kit so everything is accurate.
cross checked salinity with new calibration fluid. Turns out I was running 1.028. Not sure that's the One issue, but definitely a factor I'm sure! I wonder how long it's been off lol...
Slowly changing out half gallon a day until I get it back to 1.026
Increasing feeding to 2 cubes a day plus some pellet and algae at random
Dosing 20 ml of acro power per week
I will see how this works for a few weeks and get back in here with an update.
Depending on how that plan goes and how the halides will be 6 weeks in, I will plan the next course of action.
Once again, thank you everyone
My plan of action: starting simple....
I knew this one already, but before making any changes, I'm going to run the halide another couple weeks longer since they are only two weeks old. I knew the color wouldn't change that quick but I wanted opinions on what else could be done.
Cross checked alk and cal today with differvent kit so everything is accurate.
cross checked salinity with new calibration fluid. Turns out I was running 1.028. Not sure that's the One issue, but definitely a factor I'm sure! I wonder how long it's been off lol...
Slowly changing out half gallon a day until I get it back to 1.026
Increasing feeding to 2 cubes a day plus some pellet and algae at random
Dosing 20 ml of acro power per week
I will see how this works for a few weeks and get back in here with an update.
Depending on how that plan goes and how the halides will be 6 weeks in, I will plan the next course of action.
Once again, thank you everyone
3 years of brown....
Here's my thoughts and I hope it helps.
I think you'll find the new lightning may help. I'm not sure adding more fish and feeding them more is going to be beneficial. I have to agree with Peter that while your test results suggest a low nutrient environment, the fact you have to clean your glass every 2-3 days and you have algae on your rocks suggests otherwise.
I'm not a fan of dosing my tank with much other than the basics and of course water changes. Amino acids, etc. may work for some, but I've read horror stories too. I would give it time for the lights to reveal if they are the solution and in the mean time I would work on trying to eliminate the algae growth and get your glass to remain clean for 5-7 days. Small amounts of GFO and daily to every other day of filter bag rotation is good practice, IMO.
Also, I would consider feeding your corals fresh hatched artemia. Through my research many of the sps corals in our systems are drastically underfed. And fish crap is not the same as a fresh pod or shrimp. Feeding your corals will allow them to expel more zooxanthellae as they will not require as much for energy. Furthermore, the increased lighting, especially in the uv wavelength, will begin to force the coral to create more fluorescent proteins to protect itself from the radiation. Thus creating a more colorful coral.
Here's my thoughts and I hope it helps.
I think you'll find the new lightning may help. I'm not sure adding more fish and feeding them more is going to be beneficial. I have to agree with Peter that while your test results suggest a low nutrient environment, the fact you have to clean your glass every 2-3 days and you have algae on your rocks suggests otherwise.
I'm not a fan of dosing my tank with much other than the basics and of course water changes. Amino acids, etc. may work for some, but I've read horror stories too. I would give it time for the lights to reveal if they are the solution and in the mean time I would work on trying to eliminate the algae growth and get your glass to remain clean for 5-7 days. Small amounts of GFO and daily to every other day of filter bag rotation is good practice, IMO.
Also, I would consider feeding your corals fresh hatched artemia. Through my research many of the sps corals in our systems are drastically underfed. And fish crap is not the same as a fresh pod or shrimp. Feeding your corals will allow them to expel more zooxanthellae as they will not require as much for energy. Furthermore, the increased lighting, especially in the uv wavelength, will begin to force the coral to create more fluorescent proteins to protect itself from the radiation. Thus creating a more colorful coral.
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