3 Yrs

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Here ya go... I would keep the calc reactor online... They are pretty much set it and forget it for about 5-6 mos...

I used to dose kalk.. but quit after my alk skyrocketed, Bringing down my lighting period to 9-10 hours from 12 slowed the growth and the calcification of the corals... ( a good thing in my opinion ) I can't keep up with the fragging....

I am now calc reactor only... No dosing no supplements.. and no zeo :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8178336#post8178336 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Frankysreef
I can't keep up with the fragging....

and no zeo :)

I can't wait till I have that problem :D No zeo?!? How do you do it with no zeo :lol2:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8175394#post8175394 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Serioussnaps
Is your temperature really 0??? if it is that might explain your problem...

sorry...i had to...all joking aside--

Stability is the key here...your ALK and CA should stay very tightly to a goal parameter IMO...also your salinity should come down to 1.025-1.026 and yes you should be using a refractometer...i wasnt and found that my hydrometer(swing arm) was.005 off and my salinity was 1.031!!! this was without any corals so not a big deal but glad i learned that lesson...ALSO

why dont you get rid of the reactor and start dripping kalk using a peristalic pump...it would be just fine for a 58 G tank and you would see great stablity in your PH, Salinity, CA and ALK..you would also raise your ph which deters algal growth and also you would be precipitating phosphates with the use of kalkwasser(algae loves phosphates)

I doubt you had too much flow..did you have the controller....i run a 6000 full blast on my controller in a 55 and dont have enough flow!!!!

-i agree with weekly wc's....dump some of the clean water at the top of the WC bucket and let the crap settle and then get more...keep doing that till you have a mound of gunk at the bottom of your WC bucket

---i suspect strongly your problem came from some kind of swing/lack of stability in tank params

If you hate the algae look into heavy heavy skimming, BB and a GFO reactor of somesort(to run phosban)but be careful using GFO's as too much media at once can push em over the edge....


CRAWL, WALK THEN RUN...take everything slow and keep it stable


This is great advice.
 
first off you need a new valve.. get a 1/4 inch sprinkler valve from HD, you get 4 for like 2 bucks. set your drip at about every other second....

Test your affluent ph, it should be at around 6+-.. It will take some time to fiddle with your reactor to get it right. But it is better than mixin kalk, and kalk reactors can be a little iffy too.. more fiddlin to get it right.

Look up in the advanced aquarist magazine and read the articles about calcium and alkalinity to get a starting point.

Start a log book and record the changes every day, you need to know how much calcium that your tank takes per day.. and adjust the co2 and the drip accordingly....

You don't need ZEO to get colorful corals, study calfo's book of coral propogation techniques...
Highly oxygenated water along with the right lighting, read reef farmers lighting seminar about 20k and 6500k lighting as being the most perfect saturation for lighting for sps corals.

I personally have set up a sunlight system which works in conjuction with my 4 20k helios bulbs. like 1000 watts of 6500k for 3-4 hrs a day. Will give you amazing colors....

A specific feeding regimen is also good, I recommend small amounts of food several times a day.. an ehiem feeder works great for thsi..

I also highly recommend a live food source I have a 30 gal fuge/frag tank lit with 6 t5 and a mag 7 and a mj1200 providing flow, which drains right before the pickup of the main pump therefor swooshing live mysid, amphipod copoepod babies and eggs into the main display....

Don't forget about the automated top off that is also needed.... for the salinity of the tank needs to remain constant.. very important here....

have fun....
 
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