300 (72x36x27) or 400 (96x36x27)

M

MstgKillr

Member
I've pretty much decided that I will be upgrading to either a 300 gallon (72x36x27) or a 400 gallon (96x36x27) DT but I'm actually having a difficult time deciding between the two. I would like to use as much of my current equipment as possible to keep costs down but I'm not against selling and buying some new stuff.

I would like to hear everyone's opinion between the two tanks! Are there any fish that I could only keep in the 400. Operational costs between the two? Any regrets either way? Additional equipment requirements? Durability?

I currently have a 215 Oceanic with the following equipment all in excellent shape:

Skimmer
(1) H&S A1260
(2) Spare Eheim 1260s with needlewheel impellers for the above

Circulation
(2) Tunze 6105
(1) 7096

Controller
Apex with two energy bars and dual pH probes

Calcium Reactor
Geo 624

Return
(1) Eheim 1262

Lighting
(3) 400w Coralvue ballasts, Reeflux bulbs, and Lumenmax Elites

Chiller
(1) SeaLine 1/2 hp

Auto topoff
Tunze Osmolator

Sump
40 gal (34x15x18)
 
Both tanks sound great. If I were you I would think more about the fish you want to keep.For me Tangs get my heart a racing and they like to swim the length of my tank so I would get the longer tank.
 
Nothing to think about! If you can fit the 8', then get the 400g!
My 450 is 96"x40"x27"h... Love it!
 
I was all set to upgrade to a 300DD. Then I brought home a Dussumieri Tang and the 6' length just won't work! Blue chin triggers also need more room to swim. What fish do you have now? Are there any that you're interested in adding?

Denise
 
I would like to run this tank without a chiller! Am I dreaming? I keep my house at maximum of 83* when I'm not home and between 74* and 76* when I'm home on the weekends and evenings. I could probably drop my maximum house temp down from 83* to 80*, if that would make the difference.

I know with my current 215 (72x24x29) with 12ft of surface area and (3) 400w MHs a chiller is necessary. If I decided to go with the 300 that has 18ft of surface area and keep the (3) 400w MHs, would the additional surface area increase the heat transfer to the tank or increase the heat dissipation from the tank? Do you think I would still need a chiller? I was also thinking about going down to (3) 250's since the 300 will be a few inches shorter at 27" tall vs 29"

The same for the 400... (4) 400 MHs or (4) 250 MHs and the need for a chiller?

What about the most energy efficient pumps when it comes to adding additional heat to the tank? For circulation I was thinking Tunze or Vortech; (4) 6105s vs (4) MP40s vs (2) 6255s vs (2) MP60s? Would the Vortech be better since the motors are external or is the difference to small to consider? For return pumps I was thinking of (2) or (3) Eheim 1262 mounted in the sump vs ReeFlow Dart/Snapper or Barracuda/Hammerhead or is the difference to small to consider?
 
Eheim 1262 900 GPH @ 80W
Dart 2600 GPH @ 94 W
Snapper 3600 GPH @ 165 W
Hammerhead 4590 GPH @ 237 W
Barracuda 6000 GPH @ 337 W

Tunze 6105 700-3400 GPH @ 35 W
Tunze 6255 1300-4800 GPH @ 58 W
Vortech MP40 1000-3200 GPH @ 9-28 W
Vortech MP60 3500-7500 GPH @ 10-60 W
 
I am running a 225 gallon with 3 400W MH above my tank and I keep my house at 78 constant except for winter where its around 75 and I have no chiller. Note my MHs are about 12 - 15 inches above water and I have dog fans on each end sucking in cold air and blowing out the warm air and my tank is around 79-80 degrees. I am using my tank as a reference to guide you to what might work in your situation.
 
Newbie Aquarist said:
I am running a 225 gallon with 3 400W MH above my tank and I keep my house at 78 constant except for winter where its around 75 and I have no chiller. Note my MHs are about 12 - 15 inches above water and I have dog fans on each end sucking in cold air and blowing out the warm air and my tank is around 79-80 degrees. I am using my tank as a reference to guide you to what might work in your situation.
Click to expand...

I have (3) 400W MH with the bulb 10" above the water, a large fan blowing on the sump and another on on the surface of the DT and I still need a chiller. My house is 83* for 12 hours and 75* for 12 hours and I run the lights when the house is at 75*.
 
I learned one thing from my electrical company, if you keep your house at 77 during spring, and summer, and 70 in the fall and winter(like we actually have a winter and fall) your bill will be lower. My bill dropped 70-100 depending on the time of the year. Just a word of advice.
 
Newbie Aquarist said:
I learned one thing from my electrical company, if you keep your house at 77 during spring, and summer, and 70 in the fall and winter(like we actually have a winter and fall) your bill will be lower. My bill dropped 70-100 depending on the time of the year. Just a word of advice.
Click to expand...

I have a Nest programable thermostat and during the summer it's set to 83* while nobody is home during the day and 75* at night... In the winter I don't turn the heat on until it gets in the 60's.
 
MstgKillr said:
I would like to run this tank without a chiller! Am I dreaming? I keep my house at maximum of 83* when I'm not home and between 74* and 76* when I'm home on the weekends and evenings. I could probably drop my maximum house temp down from 83* to 80*, if that would make the difference.

I know with my current 215 (72x24x29) with 12ft of surface area and (3) 400w MHs a chiller is necessary. If I decided to go with the 300 that has 18ft of surface area and keep the (3) 400w MHs, would the additional surface area increase the heat transfer to the tank or increase the heat dissipation from the tank? Do you think I would still need a chiller? I was also thinking about going down to (3) 250's since the 300 will be a few inches shorter at 27" tall vs 29"

The same for the 400... (4) 400 MHs or (4) 250 MHs and the need for a chiller?

What about the most energy efficient pumps when it comes to adding additional heat to the tank? For circulation I was thinking Tunze or Vortech; (4) 6105s vs (4) MP40s vs (2) 6255s vs (2) MP60s? Would the Vortech be better since the motors are external or is the difference to small to consider? For return pumps I was thinking of (2) or (3) Eheim 1262 mounted in the sump vs ReeFlow Dart/Snapper or Barracuda/Hammerhead or is the difference to small to consider?
Click to expand...


Is there a reason you are not considering LED? If you are worried about heat, it seems that would be the way to go.

I believe you will need more flow than you are planning at the moment. My 290 84x31x26 started with 4 Tunze 6105's. I have now added two additional 6105's and am quite happy with the flow. It was just not enough with only 4. I love the Vortecs, but NOT the noise. So if that is an issue for you, keep to Tunze.

Another return pump to consider is the Reef Octopus "Waterblaster" pumps. I am beside myself happy with mine. NO heat, super quiet and very efficient.

Sounds like it is gonna be a pretty sweet set up. Good luck.
 
kmooresf said:
Is there a reason you are not considering LED? If you are worried about heat, it seems that would be the way to go.

I believe you will need more flow than you are planning at the moment. My 290 84x31x26 started with 4 Tunze 6105's. I have now added two additional 6105's and am quite happy with the flow. It was just not enough with only 4. I love the Vortecs, but NOT the noise. So if that is an issue for you, keep to Tunze.

Another return pump to consider is the Reef Octopus "Waterblaster" pumps. I am beside myself happy with mine. NO heat, super quiet and very efficient.

Sounds like it is gonna be a pretty sweet set up. Good luck.
Click to expand...

I'm considering LEDs but the up front costs are high and I'm not sold on them compared to metal halides when trying to keep SPS corals. The technology seems to be advancing so quickly, I'm trying to wait it out until it's perfected.

I'll have to look into the waterblaster pumps.

I haven't had a chance to hear how loud the Vortechs are... Maybe (2) 6255 and (2) 6105?
 
I would take your old one and make it into the sump below the new larger one.

As you said you did not want to increase any on expenses.. this would make a killer sump.

GO LONG!
 
I think I may end up going with the 300... The 8ft probably won't have enough room on one side of the stand considering its only a 10ft wall.
 
how are you people running 400w at 10" off the surface and not frying everything? I ran 250w radiums at that height and getting 450 par at the sandbed and 900 at the top of the rocks halfway down. Fried everything not in a shady spot. Switched to 150w and tank has exploded with growth, color, coralline.. it's retahded how fast it made a difference.
 
When I switched over from the 250's I used several layers of screen
and one by one removed each layer over a few weeks. Everything grows
like weeds now but I have to be very careful with acclimating new
coral. Almost forgot, I have a 29" deep tank too!
 
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