300 acrylic with bar

[Chihuahua6]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13926873#post13926873 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lacy
Murfman,

Which Makita did you use? Is it a fixed or variable RPM? I have been polishing my 300g for hours using a buffer (~5500 rpm) and drill/buffing pad (~7500 RPM) but I cannot get all of the scratches out. I, too, started with sandpaper (800 grit) and went all the way to 12000 grit (micromesh) then have tried multiple polishing compounds (the micromesh white compoud, Aquabuff 2000 and Novus 3 & 2) but I still have some scratches that will not smooth over.

Thanks!!

Lacy that means you had some deeper scratches that didn't come out when you did your first layer of sanding. I have a few too that were left behind. I saw them but decided not to go crazy to get the very few small deep ones. Now with water in the tank I have to search close to find them.

If they really bother you, you can spot sand those areas going through all the grits again. Circle the areas with a wipe off pencil on the outside of the tank. This way you'll have a guide to stay in that area. Start on just the scratch with the low grit. With each higher grit go just outside of the previous layer but not outside of your circle.

I hope this makes sense.

 

[murfman]

Thank you all for your kind remarks.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13926873#post13926873 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lacy
Murfman,

Which Makita did you use? Is it a fixed or variable RPM? I have been polishing my 300g for hours using a buffer (~5500 rpm) and drill/buffing pad (~7500 RPM) but I cannot get all of the scratches out. I, too, started with sandpaper (800 grit) and went all the way to 12000 grit (micromesh) then have tried multiple polishing compounds (the micromesh white compoud, Aquabuff 2000 and Novus 3 & 2) but I still have some scratches that will not smooth over.

Thanks!!

Lacy, What Chewy said is the best way to get the deepest scratches. I used 400 to get the deepest stuff and stopped at 1200, switching to the Novus 3 and 2. I used a Makita 9207SPC on the lowest setting. 5500 is too fast, you will melt the acrylic if not too careful.

 

[skrtcsr]

Thant is a serious project you have on your hands, just buffing the scratches out is something I would not want to tackle.. Good luck, it should look amazing when your done.

 

[Pacific Reefs]

Very nice. Went through the whole buffing process and man is it a pain but worth it in the end.

 

[murfman]

Update;
Been working on the plumbing and leaks.

Closed loop manifolds, right side;

Left side;

Left side of the stand, Snapper return pump, via the overflows and 1 of the two Darts powering the CLMs.

Right side where the Dart that is currently on my 125 CLM will be attatched;

Filled to the top, have about 1 ½” before water would hit the Eurobrace;

Serious return to the sump via 2 2” overflows;

View from the end, full of water;

 

[murfman]

Lessons learned with the plumbing;

1) Design and make the manifold 1st, then drill the tank. This way you have everything where you want it and don't have to engineer around obstacles.

2) If you are running out of PVC cement, go buy more, don't think that you have enough to make it to the end.

3) If you have a leak, you can take PVC shavings and mix it with the PVC glue to make a slurry. Use this to fill your mistakes, if you can.
___

 

[edandsandy]

Congratulation on the upgrade!

 

[murfman]

Have the tank 1/2 full with salt water and added 100# of live rock. Here is how pitiful that looks. I do have all the rock out of my 125 to add still;

 

[murfman]

So I decided to build strainers for the closed loop manifold. I picked up a sanitary T in 2” and it came with the cover;

I also grabbed two, 2” drains that just slip in the T;

I cut out the center of the cover by drilling ¼” holes and using a jig saw;

This was glued to the threads on the T with Weld On 16. I also drilled ¼” holes on the top and bottom of the T for more flow in to the T. Now I can thread it on and off the 2” bulkhead for cleaning. I can pop out one of the end caps and put in fiber floss to filter as much loose sand while the tank settles down and then remove it at a later date. One caution though. Put egg crate at the opening where the threaded end is to keep the fiber floss from being sucked into the pump.

 

[murfman]

The tank was filled with sand and then RO/DI dripped in to the 160 gallon mark. I turned on the pumps and put a bucket of salt in to start mixing. I let it stew for a day and then placed 100# of live rock, that I had been cooking in the garage, in the tank;

This is what the tank looked like New Years Eve, after moving the majority of rock and corals from my 125 to it;

This is what it looked like New Years Day 2009 after sitting all night;

 

[murfman]

Reflectors are borrowed from our local Club. Lumenarc IIIs are going on there.

 

[porthios]

i really like the aquascaping. the 'obelisk' arrangement on the left is great..

 

["Umm fish?"]

Very nice! Good luck with the rest of the build!

 

[plyr58]

Looking good! I will be interested in seeing how you like your CL. Trying to decide if I want to go that route. Just out of curiosity, how much did the whole closed loop (pump and plumbing) set you back? I am trying to decide if a CL of more Power heads will be more economical.

 

[murfman]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14059526#post14059526 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by porthios
i really like the aquascaping. the 'obelisk' arrangement on the left is great..

That rock will eventually be covered in Zoas. It reminds me of one of the off shore islands in the Bond movie the Man with the Golden Gun.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14059526#post14059526 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by plyr58
Looking good! I will be interested in seeing how you like your CL. Trying to decide if I want to go that route. Just out of curiosity, how much did the whole closed loop (pump and plumbing) set you back? I am trying to decide if a CL of more Power heads will be more economical.

I got all of my 1 1/2" PVC free from another reefer. For me the whole deal of power heads in the tank is a no brainer. I like the clean look, that is why I used the jet eyes for returns in the bulkheads and not loc line. The darts are relatively cheap and you can always find them used too. They are a good pump. Depending on the size of your tank will be the determining factor of what pump to run.

 

[mcliffy2]

the tank is looking good - I like the aquascape, plenty of room for fish to swim and corals to grow in.

 

[mcliffy2]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14062614#post14062614 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by murfman
That rock will eventually be covered in Zoas. It reminds me of one of the off shore islands in the Bond movie the Man with the Golden Gun.

You mean like this? (please ignore the shirtless guy in the front)

 

[murfman]

I was thinking more like this one but I am glad mine is not that "thin" at the base!!!!

 

[mcliffy2]

Thats the exact one...the one in my pic is just south of that one in Thailand. We went there instead because the one in your pic is way overrun with tourist boats

 

[murfman]

I got everything moved from the 125.

Here are some pix of the drain line from the overflow. I put a 2” Y and reduced it down to ½” This is my line feeding my skimmer;

I put a ½’ ball valve on the line so that I can control the amount of flow to the skimmer and not have to mess with the gate valve, on the outlet. I will leave that for fine tuning.

Here is a picture of the skimmate after just 18 hours;