300 gal reef re-do

I'm shooting for 1 more month. Curing another 100lbs of live rock for the fuge, need to build the new stand for the sump, new light rack. And the plumbing.
 
While we're on the subject of plumbing, let me throw this out there for some opinions. I only have 2-1" bulkheads for my drain and 2-3/4" bulkheads for my returns. It drains about 1200 gph which was fine for my old pump. Now I will run a Hammerhead and even with the head pressure I'm sure I can return more that that. I'm more than a little scared about the idea of being under my tank and trying to re-drill a larger hole. What do you guys think about using both the 1" and 3/4" as drains then run a return along the outside and across the top?
 
uh...you are going to have a problem Paul. Can you post a pic of the tank overflow system again so I can check it out? I run a Hammerhead and have two 2" and one 1.5" drain on my overflow. That is more then enough, but you have to plan for clogs too. A lot of crap gets lodged in the intake screens.

At the very minimum I would install a float switch just above the water line that will cut off your return pump if the tank starts to overfill.
 
Thanks Bart

Here you go Jonathan

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Here is the plan

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If I had to I can still drill it for a 2" drain if that is the best solution. Also if its too much flow I can always return some directly into the sump. The chiller is also going to be taking up about 1000gph flow, and my tank is 8 feet above the pump for added head pressure.
 
Not sure how well they work but I found an add on for aqualogic chillers that shut down the power to the chiller if it detects no flow in the plumbing to the chiller, I think its called a flow switch. You could put one on your drain pipe and if water stops flowing through it, the return pump could be shut off. I believe they come in a 1.5" model.

here's a link
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewI...Switch__20A__230V_for_Chillers_up_to_1_1_2HP_(FS_1.5_230)_Saltwater_Aquarium_Supplies_Chillers_Accessories~vendor~.html

Could be wrong, just a suggestion.
 
That's not a bad idea either Tom, although a bit more expensive.

And Paul, I return some flow to my sump as well to keep both sumps near level and to provide a prime if needed, but there is no way IMO that you can run a Hammerhead through that overfow.

It may be size-distorted in the picture, or you may have more than one of them, which would of course negate my comments. But seriously, the overflow itself looks to be too small to handle that much flow, regardless of how big a drain you squeeze into it.

OK...I think I see two in your drawing...you may be OK there. Even with 1000gph going to the chiller and 500gph going to the Ca reactor, you are still playing with about 4000gph minus whatever head pressure you will be combatting.

If you haven't already, check these links:

Head Loss Calculator

Drain/Overflow Size calculator

And then figure in extra for clogs...
 
Yes, there are 2 of them. A total of 36" of overflow. If I put 2-2" drains that should be about 2400 gph. Chiller 1000 gph plus Ca, maybe carbon or phosban. With my head pressure, I might be OK.
 
plus being able to bleed off into the sump. Still tight IMO, but you won't know until you try it. Should be fun. I recommend Crater Lake or 3 Olives straight up before you light that baby off! :D
 
Maybe even before I lay down underneath the thing, say my prayers and drill. I was just thinking about the bulkhead. My overflow is 4.5" wide. If I use a 2" sch80 bulkhead I'm thinking the mounting nut will be about 4" because the 1.5" ones I just got are 3.5". Gonna be tight.
 
Another thing. There is no way I can fit a Durso Standpipe made out of 2" pipe in my overflow with the return pipe also going through the overflow. Anybody use anything different?
 
HTH...I know there are cool mods of the STockman but I can't remember where I saw them. Post in the DIY forum and ask. You should get a good response.
 
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