300 gal reef re-do
- Thread starter pcostanzo
- Start date
Actually, I just live in PA, I'm from Wisconsin. You know us friendly midwesterners, we just can't partake in that type of non-family-friendly humor. As much as I might want to...
And Bart, looking at that 600 gallon space station you've set up, don't you think you've learned enough yet!?:lol:
j/k, j/k, sorry about the thread de-rail, pcostanzo, sometimes I just can't help myself. Back to the original topic...
And Bart, looking at that 600 gallon space station you've set up, don't you think you've learned enough yet!?:lol:
j/k, j/k, sorry about the thread de-rail, pcostanzo, sometimes I just can't help myself. Back to the original topic...
pcostanzo
New member
Just wanted to post todays progress. I managed to get the sump in and plumbed. I constructed the manifold. Ran my 2-2" drain lines and 2-1" return lines.
Also got some live rock for the fuge a couple days ago. Thats curing.
I made some DIY rock with the crumbled pieces of rock at the bottom of the shipping box. I just mixed them up with some left over Thorite I had from my aquascaping. They are soaking to get the PH down.
Also got some live rock for the fuge a couple days ago. Thats curing.
I made some DIY rock with the crumbled pieces of rock at the bottom of the shipping box. I just mixed them up with some left over Thorite I had from my aquascaping. They are soaking to get the PH down.
ReefingBuddha
New member
looking good and making great progress fast.
jnarowe
New member
That really is looking good Paul, and it's nice to get the extra water volume by using a square sump. The home-made rock really looks nice too.
I would put a valve on the end of the manifold. That way should you need to extend it, you can do so without shutting the system down. I just used a schedule 80 BV.
Also, what do you think about mounting the pump differently so you can lose the 90 elbow on the output? And I would put valves like the ones you used on the manifold before and after the pump, so that you can close them and take the pump offline for cleaning and repairs. It appears from the pictures that there's no way to close off the flow from the sump to remove the pump. Am I seeing that correctly, or have I missed something?
I would put a valve on the end of the manifold. That way should you need to extend it, you can do so without shutting the system down. I just used a schedule 80 BV.
Also, what do you think about mounting the pump differently so you can lose the 90 elbow on the output? And I would put valves like the ones you used on the manifold before and after the pump, so that you can close them and take the pump offline for cleaning and repairs. It appears from the pictures that there's no way to close off the flow from the sump to remove the pump. Am I seeing that correctly, or have I missed something?
jnarowe
New member
OK. The Sequence pump can be mounted on its side as well to lose the elbow, or you can rotate the pump body on the motor so the output is facing out towards your manifold. That will decrease the head pressure from the first elbow, especially since it is so close to the output. In fact that might be so constrictive that the threads would leak.
pcostanzo
New member
I was looking at rotating the pump. I did that with my Gen-x. I just put in what will hope to be my final order of plumbing parts. Since I was getting a ball valve for that pump I ended up getting 3 more for the manifold. Might as well put them on now. Man, the fittings and pipe cost more that my 1st tank.
ReefingBuddha
New member
My weekly fish food costs more then my first tank 
pcostanzo
New member
Today I worked on the hybrid standpipe. The parts for a 2" drain are:
length of 2" PVC
2" end cap
2" to 3" adapter
2" male adapter. This is what threads into my bulkhead.
parts
1/2" holes are drilled around the pipe.
The 2" to 3" adapter has to be ground down so it slips over the pipe.
A hole is drilled in the cap and a length of airline is put in
The adapter slips over the pipe
Finished
Installed
The original post is further back in my thread. The only thing I changed was using the 2" to 3" adapter rather than the different adapter and coupler in the original design. Not ready to try it yet. I'll let you know how they work.
length of 2" PVC
2" end cap
2" to 3" adapter
2" male adapter. This is what threads into my bulkhead.
parts
1/2" holes are drilled around the pipe.
The 2" to 3" adapter has to be ground down so it slips over the pipe.
A hole is drilled in the cap and a length of airline is put in
The adapter slips over the pipe
Finished
Installed
The original post is further back in my thread. The only thing I changed was using the 2" to 3" adapter rather than the different adapter and coupler in the original design. Not ready to try it yet. I'll let you know how they work.
Similar threads
