300 gal reef re-do

<a href=showthread.php?
Ken, Hammerheads are very quiet. I can't even hear mine in my tank room. You may see more noise from the water flow than the pump itself. [/B]




Thats great to hear!!! I'm working on a 480 gallon tank and wanted to use it for the closed loop system> Thanks for your help:rollface:



Ken
 
Finishing up my plumbing and electrical today. I've been filling the sump for the last 3 days. Almost there. Hopefully get to fire this baby up by the end of the day and post some pics. Now I have to try and remove some scratches from acrylic. I hate this part.
 
Big day today. I finally got to test out the new sump and plumbing. So far so good everything is working good. Those 2" drain are more than enough to handle the hammerheads return.
100_1525.jpg


100_1526.jpg


I'm glad I did the big sump. Plenty of room for the live rock and macro.
100_1524.jpg


RO/DI storage, Salt water mixing and storage. I plumbed the RO/DI to empy into the salt water when I turn a valve. I plumbed my old mag24 in the salt water tank for mixing and pumping to the sump. The manifold has room for carbon, phos, Ca and new skimmer. The 2 switches next to the contoller switch one pump to empty the sump during WC and the other for the pump in the salt water to fill the sump.
100_1527.jpg


Closed loop, drains and returns
100_1528.jpg


The new standpipes work flawlessly. Absolutely silent. I was so used to the gurgle my dursos made that this is a nice change.
100_1529.jpg


Next I have to work on the light rack
 
super update Paul, and now with the 2" drains, you don't have to worry about a failure do to a clog etc.

Good feedback on the stand pipes. You have made great progress and I am really glad you ripped out yhe old stand and built in this new "L" shaped one. It gives you a lot more flexibility and room to grow. It seems to me that your RO/DI and SW mixing are just about identical to mine, but I am concerned that you may not have enough capacity. I built mine around 96g bins and will be upgrading to 200g bins so I can have more water on hand. I just find that I am operating to close to the edge when it comes to emergency situations.
 
Man looks good. I am glad the standpipes work good. What is that pipe at the end of your returns in your sump? Does it help quiet the flow?

I was just drawing up my water change system and was going to use 1 pump with 4 valves. I like how you did the 2 pumps with the switches. What kind of pumps did you use?
 
I designed mine with one Quiet One pump, a timer, and 4 valves. It's easy to do especially when you have the purified water tank elevated so that you can gravity feed the SW mixing tank.
 
thats probaly what i will do. Since i am still a newbie i dont have a lot of spare or extra parts. Thanks Johnathan.

Sorry for the hitchhike Paul. Mann your fish room is sweet...Great Job..It is a ll coming together,...........
 
Eric, you can always PM me for help with the design. I built mine a lot like Weatherson's. I even used his water level controller but am now switching to electronic float switches and a solenoid valve for the source flow.
 
Funny Johnathan.. I actually printed out his design a few months back and was looking at it today. I just have autotopoff floats for the sump. I was already planning on asking you a bunch of things down the road. I just need to get some help to lift my tank so I can get moving. Thanks for the offer. I will definetly take you up on it..
 
Not to pour sand in your drink, but as I read this thread and saw the pic of the stockman pipes and your construction. I noticed that you placed the pipe reducer upside down on the pipe. I'm glad its working but its just not as designed. Nice build thread and good luck.
 
tgfrench: He didn't build a stockman aqua silencer. He built a Hofer Gurgle Buster. Different design.

Eric, I didn't follow Weatherson's design exactly either. I used some of his ideas and made some changes to suit my needs. What I built would be very good for your size system. I use the same pump to stir the new SW as I do to drain the sumps. Just flip the valves and turn on the pump.

And I have the timer stir the new SW for 15 minutes 4x/day, and always have an air stone going in it. I run 200' of 1/4 supply line coiled in the heated SW tank, to help bring the incoming water temp. up a bit.
 
Thanks guys.
Jonathan-I though about the size. If it gets to a point where its not enough water I have the room on top to switch out to a larger tank.
Eric- that pipe at the end of the return is just a "Y" fitting. one end in the water and the top open to let in air. Also my water change is with the 2 pumps because I had them from taking down my old system so I figured I might as well use them. They are a mag24 and mag 18. The RO/DI on the top is a plus. I just open a valve and let it fill the bottom tank. Then I can close one valve and open another to mix and reverse that to pump into the sump.
tgfrench-jnarowe is right. Its not a Stockman. Take a look at the link in his post.
 
and I wonder if the Hofer stand pipe will clog, as I discussed earlier, but time will tell. It could always be fitted with a sponge or sock to keep debris out if it becomes a problem.
 
I made my light rack today. Simple aluminum that hold 3-400watt Hamilton pendants and 2 VHO actinics. All the ballasts are in the fish room to save heat in the hood. I have a Honeywell fan across the lights and a Nutone exhaust fan to vent the hood area.
100_1530.jpg


100_1533.jpg


This was the 1st time the MH have been on in a month. Messing with the system, having the skimmer off line really did a number on my water clarity. I hooked up my old skimmer till I get a new one and ran some carbon. Hopefully it will clear a little.
 
Do you think enough light from the tubes is going into the tank? Can you pull it aside to get into the tank?
 
Back
Top