300 gallon

steve the plumb

In Memoriam
I want to order a 300 gal wide tank from glass cages. 96x30x24 I would like to know anyones thoughts on where to drill the holes for a closed loop.I liked the look of the side overflow VS 2 corner overflows.Is it better to drill the holes for the closed loop on the bottom of the tank or the back walls of the tank.My sump will be in the garage (directly in back of the tank) I wanted the side overflow(diagram 2 on glas cages web site) because I want to make the holes for the plumbing on the left side of the tank.I have an electrical panel in back wall of the tank(in the garage) so the left side is free for plumbing pipes.I will have to drill the holes in the wall but its just cynder blocks and gype.I want to make it look as clean as possible(in the basment)As for the garage who cares no one is going to see it.Does any one have any pics or digrams to show me .Thanks
 

mflamb

New member
Don't drill closed loop intake holes on the bottom unless you are doing bare bottom. Drill the back.
 

steve the plumb

In Memoriam
yes I already thought of that.I did think that I could hide the pipe with rockwork.The pipe would be in the sand and I would place rocks around it.I would think that if the pumps were shut off sand may get in.I wanted to have them stick out about 4 to 6 inches and have some rock work around them so with coraline algea and some rocks,corals etc they would be hidden.I would put 45 elbows at the end to aim the current.I may go bb but then it becomes harder to hide everything.I could also drill some bare rock.This would hide the pipe very well.grow corals around it make everything blend in.Has anyone done something similar.Thanks for the help
 

steve the plumb

In Memoriam
Thanks Bax I will look at them.I was worried about weakening the tank.Another company that I was looking at was placing 3/4 inch laminated plywood under the tank and glueing it to strenghten it but they were asking a fortune for the tank.
 

erics3000

Active member
Hows the progress? I am trying to design a 300 in wall myself/ I was planning on having external overflows on both sides with 2 drain pipe to a 55 gallon tank i already have. Since my tank will be viewable from both sides I was plannin on putting 2 returns in the middle on both sides. And then put an om 4 in the middle. Any input?
 

Fishel

Premium Member
I am drilling 6 holes in the bottom of my tank for 1inch bulkheads.. they will be used for 2 seperate closed loops being fed by 2 sequence darts....

I have not heard of any problems with drilling holes in the bottom..... I will have a DSB of 4 inches or so.......
 

steve the plumb

In Memoriam
I am getting a local tank builder here to build me a tank 96x30x24.He is using 3/4 inch glass all around.He will also bu using eurobracing.The guy has been very busy and so have I.I have to make an appointment with him to go see the tanks he has built and the shop.He has been doing this for 25 years so I know that he has a good reputation in this city.He will make my overflow on left side of the tank plus a 2 inch hole for a closed loop and 2 1 inch holes for the return from the closed loop.The holes will be at the bottom at the opposite end of the overflow.The return from the sump will be near the side of the overflow and I will place a Tunze wavebox there.The return will help with the flow from the wavebox(I think)I don't know for sure if 1 wave box is enough for this size tank.I may go BB I am not sure.I like a little bit of sand,maybe 1 1/2 inches but that will more than likley get messed up with the fish and current.I was also thinking of using 2 dart pumps and drilling more holes.
 

Fishel

Premium Member
make me a little nervous after seeing the post... but he said his tank was 30 inch wide.. mine is 24... plus I won't be putting the holes in the middle of the tank.... 3 on each side......
 

steve the plumb

In Memoriam
it all depends on the thickness of the glass.You can also brace the bottom with plywood.They glue it to the bottom of the tank to strengthen it.This helps.I was looking to order a tank from somone and they were going to glue laminated 3/4 plywood to the bottom.The tank was to expensive (over$4000) with shipping.The one I am getting now is $2500 tax in CDN funds.I may pay a little less still trying to bargain a little
 

Fishel

Premium Member
I have a glass cages 240 tank along with their stand... their stand has a solid top.. it's not open on top or under the tank like many stands.... so the tank bottom will be sitting on to of a solid piece of wood....

the tank is 1/2 inch gass....... and the bottom inside of the tank (all the way around the tank) is braced with more glass. The bracing width of the glass is about 3-4 inches wide (front to back all the way around).....
 

steve the plumb

In Memoriam
the builder was going to glue the plywood to the bottom of the tank(underneath the bracing).I have seen guys on this forum with pcv bottom.This does make the tank bottom stronger.Doesn't matter strenght of stand its the strenght of the glass.I didn't go with glass cages because they were using thinner glass plus $670 to ship to Canada wasn't cheap.In the end it was costing me a few hundred dollars more to build it here but at least if something goes wrong the guy is located near me.I know he does repairs for miracles on glass and he does good work.You can of course buy pvc and glue it to your tank bottom to reinforce the bottom.I am still a little nervous about drilling the tank.If for some reason the weight shifts or rocks fall and the tank cracks there goes the floor,livestock and alot of money down the drain.If you decide to reinforce the bottom I would ask if the pvc or plywood should touch the end (meaning leave a gap) I think you need a gap for expansion from the weight of the water.I am not sure.My guy told me his tank will be solid and I will have no problems.25 years of doing this I hope so
 
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