300g Mixed Reef Journey

How much time before you add water?

I would hope before the end of the month I will be able to perform a full loop test to check for leaks and debug any problems before ordering my solid surface. I guess I need to check if I have enough 1.5" pipe and unions to complete the circuit.
 
LED lights installed behind the front edge. I also have some door contact switches that will turn these on/off automatically.

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wow , super organized and neat :eek1:
what is the device on top of the automated skimmer neck cleaner connected to the cat5 cable?
the solenoid directing the water flow to your kalk reactor/ sump, where can you find those? and how does it connect to the apex ?
definitely tagging along
 
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ignore the solenoid question , i wasn't reading very carefully, I see where you just connected them with a standard plug/cable and you plug them into the apex eb4 because of the low wattage. But what are the clear things in between the power plugs and eb8 , do they light up to let you know their on?
 
When does the tank arrive?

Sadly my priority is paying off bills right now. So tank is on hold for a little longer. Still plenty of prep work to be done though. Plus I have my 90G still running so I am not missing out on anything except a new bigger beginning.

what is the device on top of the automated skimmer neck cleaner connected to the cat5 cable?

Checking that my web cam was networked correctly and would show up on the Apex dashboard. Trying to figure out a good place to mount a camera or 2. I might replace the room light fixture and hang a cam down from the celling.

But what are the clear things in between the power plugs and eb8 , do they light up to let you know their on?

Yup. Just for visibility that an outlet is on. IMO Apex should add a LED as it is very beneficial info for the user.
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I also have the apex, and was thinking about using those solenoids in my build, and I know your using the eb4 for the those, but would the apex breakout box also be able to switch the solenoids on/off? And what does the 550 flow restrictor ensure before the water enters the kalk reactor?
oh and we need updates! really great automation ideas ;)
 
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wow so much great info I need to back and read again! I'm starting a 280 in wall build and do not have a whole room just under tank; your build is going to help me thanks for taking the time to post!
 
would the apex breakout box also be able to switch the solenoids on/off?

No the breakout box cannot drive control of anything. It is just a continuity checker.

what does the 550 flow restrictor ensure before the water enters the kalk reactor?

The flow restrictor ensures 2 things. First is most solenoids need a tiny bit of pressure to open and along with the top-off pump this is accomplished. Second is when the valve is open, that path only has a tiny amount of restriction compared to the restrictor path and so the majority of the water will take the solenoid path.


All floats are now connected to breakout box. I did add another 'oh crap my filter pad and sock are clogged' float. I will probably be able to hear the change in sound of water overflowing differently into the sump but this is a nice backup just in case.
I added a digital temperature fan controller that I will use to circulate fresh air from the cabinet doors and also aim at the sump surface to cool it down a bit when needed.
I decided that I will eventually mount the ozone air pump and dryer to the wall above the counter top so as to start with less humid air and make changing the desiccant easy. I will eventually migrate one of the EB8s from my other tank and mount on the wall too for connecting up the lights and wave makers.
I got my lab grade PH and ORP probes. I am debating whether to get a salinity probe and use that in the mixing tank.
I got a cheap Full HD Chinese 9" tablet that I will mount to the upper cabinet and use as a monitor and controller.
And finally I added a temporary return pipe to the drain so I can perform a full water test and check everything out and fix any drips while it is still open and easy to do.
One thing I did realize I was missing was a RODI line for filling my dosing mixture containers and whatnot.

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Got some programming done the past few days. In the process found my flow switch would get stuck. Just had to change to a larger diameter pipe to fix that.

Tonight I played with water :fun4: Tested that I could fill the fresh RODI holding tank and that its overflow to the drain could handle the float cutoff valve not functioning. Also tested that the RO source does properly shut off when the float cutoff valve rises and restarts when it drops. Tested that my ATO pump works. My Kalk bypass works flawlessly.

What I did not like was that my mix tank fill solenoid is very loud. I know it will take a LONG time to fill 29G tank so this has to be remedied. I will probably have to remove it and put a mechanical one in its place. Another thing I did not like was the float cutoff valve I use in the mix tank was really restrictive. Like 10 drops per second. When I disconnected the line it flowed as one would expect a gravity flow should. When I look into the float valve it is literally a pin hole. I will try to drill it larger. If I can't get that to work, I could either change to a Normally Open solenoid and only shut it when a different float switch indicates tank full then close the mechanical valve or may have to add another ATO pump that periodically runs until float switch tells me tank is full. Many options to consider. I am in no hurry.
 
Not much progress on new build to report. Just gaining confidence that the RO system is robust as I use it to fill the jugs for my other tank. I have some sand (Fiji pink) and more rocks on order.

My algae blenny I have had for 4 years died over the weekend. He started getting a bloated belly a few months back but seemed otherwise fine. Not sure what happened (worms? constipated?).
 
My MAG5 mixing pump was horribly loud and the vibration reverberated the whole stand. It had to go. I replaced it with a Waveline DC4000 and I am much relieved. This DC pump is near silent. There is no way it runs at its rated 1000GPH, but works for my application.

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With each water change bucket from my 90G tank, I am slowing filling this sump up. A whole bunch more and I can do a full test :bounce1:
 
Awesome build. With regards to the waveline not running at maxflow. Is there anyway to ditch the 90 on the intake? Also maybe see if the two 45s on the outlet could be changed. I have one that runs a return on my 100 gallon setup with no restriction on the inlet and one 45 before it hits the tank , i have no doubt it does everybit of 800 gph with around 3ft of head pressure.
 
With regards to the waveline not running at maxflow. Is there anyway to ditch the 90 on the intake?

You tickled my mind and I think I figured it out. The 90 is not the problem, but rather I am feeding pump with a 1/2 line from tank bulkhead into the 5/4 pump input. So I am starving the pump I guess. Will that shorten the pump's life? I could re-drill the tank. But is it worth it? The Mag5 ran great during my outdoor test with just 1/2.
 
I think they have different impeller designs that may change things. If it were me I would make the hole as large as possible you always want intakes to match. So I would want at least a 1" but I believe they are 1 1/4" intake. Is there room in that tank to run it submerged.
Also I switched out my mag 9.5 running to a single locline return nozzle, I now have the waveline on a dual nozzle return and the flow appears to be stronger from each than the mag 9.5 was from one
 
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