36x18" 40B Stand Build

[mdenigris]

I'm planning to build a stand and canopy for a 40 G Breeder which is an odd size.

I've noticed that most DIY's use 2x4's, but I'm thinking that this might be overbuilding for a 40 G.

I'm planning on building the stand entirely out of 3/4" hardwood plywood.

Here's the plan, and I would love your feedback.

 

[mdenigris]

Front:

Back:

 

[RJS8540]

I have built many stands using only 3/4" Plywood, up to 220 Gallon sizes. I only see one thing I would change. That is to build the back and front cabinet faces the same. That way the bottom can be attached completely across the back.Good luck and keep the updates coming

 

[Ronic]

I would be concerned about the edges of the plywood, there is not a lot to glue, screw, or nail to. So if the stand racks to the side it could tear out easily. It would be like putting your tank on an Ikea stand. I know people do it but I wouldn't trust it.

 

[RJS8540]

I would be concerned about the edges of the plywood, there is not a lot to glue, screw, or nail to. So if the stand racks to the side it could tear out easily. It would be like putting your tank on an Ikea stand. I know people do it but I wouldn't trust it.

This stand was built completely with 3/4" Plywood it is holding a 180 gallon acrylic. Yes it can be done

 

[mdenigris]

build the back and front cabinet faces the same.

You're right! Good idea.

The frame will be joined with a biscuit joiner and some with pocket holes - the joints with 3/4" ply will be rock solid.

 

[TucanSam007]

Yes it works, I have 1/2 hardwood ply for my 65 and holding up well, reinforced the corners though.

 

[mdenigris]

Very nice stand RJS. Is that crown molding around the top edge?

Picked up all the lumber and got the workshop in order today. Construction starts tomorrow and I'll post progress pictures.

Thanks for the help so far.

 

[Reefed419]

Dude as long as your weight is one the length of the ply wood you will be good to go, anything after that is up to you for ease of mind.

 

[hillscp]

Here is a model I used to build my 125.

http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net/~chicowoodnut/aquarium/images/TankStandv8withTank.skp

Plywood works fine. Pocket screws and glue are really strong.

 

[JEC11718]

pictures or it didnt happen!

 

[RJS8540]

Very nice stand RJS. Is that crown molding around the top edge?

Picked up all the lumber and got the workshop in order today. Construction starts tomorrow and I'll post progress pictures.

Thanks for the help so far.

No Crown molding I made a chair rail molding and topped it off with a 1x rounded off. I hope this photo helps to show what I'm talking about.

 

[mdenigris]

pictures or it didnt happen!

:debi:

Today, I got all the cuts done and framed the front and back panels.

I decided to use dowel joints for strength instead of the biscuit joiner. In my experience these are very strong, even when dry fit before you glue it up.

This is the jig I use to make the dowel joints - I've had a few of these and this is my favorite. It has straight edges to line up your work precisely by running your finger over both edges of the work and the straight edge, then the holes on both pieces are drilled in one setup. It quickly makes perfect, flush joints every time.

Back side glued, clamped, and setting up on the bench.

Front side done too. No screws, just glue and dowels.

 

[RJS8540]

Looks good. I wish I had room for an assembly table like yours.

 

[mdenigris]

The table makes things so much easier - this is my first project with it. I picked it up on Saturday at Home Depot. I like that the underside of the bench top is solid for accepting clamps.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...053&langId=-1&keyword=workbench&storeId=10051

I've claimed the basement as my domain, so I carved out a corner for the workshop.

 

[RobE]

Looks good, I have the same doweling jig. I find myself using the kreg pocket hole jig for alot of stuff lately its just faster. Those joints should be plenty strong using the dowels and glue.

 

[mdenigris]

I'll probably use pocket holes for the inside shelf and the cross beam, but I wanted the extra strength on these load bearing panels and the corners for piece of mind. The panels feel like a solid piece of wood now that the glue has set up. In fact, if they were flexed to breaking at this point, I bet they'd break on the face of the vertical members, not the joints!

 

[uncleof6]

:debi:

Today, I got all the cuts done and framed the front and back panels.

I decided to use dowel joints for strength instead of the biscuit joiner. In my experience these are very strong, even when dry fit before you glue it up.

This is the jig I use to make the dowel joints - I've had a few of these and this is my favorite. It has straight edges to line up your work precisely by running your finger over both edges of the work and the straight edge, then the holes on both pieces are drilled in one setup. It quickly makes perfect, flush joints every time.

Back side glued, clamped, and setting up on the bench.

Front side done too. No screws, just glue and dowels.

Just a question, why did you chop up the plywood, instead of using solid plywood panels, with cutouts for access) for the front, back, ends and bottom, rather than chopping them up into dimensioned lumber--making for multiple joints (read potential failure points) that basically, undoes the benefits of making a plywood stand? The chief benefits being rock solid, and simple to build, in a short period of time.<read potential="" failure="" points=""><read potential="" faliure="" points=""></read></read>

 

[mdenigris]

Just a question, why did you chop up the plywood, instead of using solid plywood panels, with cutouts for access) for the front, back, ends and bottom, rather than chopping them up into dimensioned lumber--making for multiple joints (read potential failure points) that basically, undoes the benefits of making a plywood stand? The chief benefits being rock solid, and simple to build, in a short period of time.<read potential="" failure="" points=""><read potential="" faliure="" points=""></read></read>

Fair question. I thought about doing cutouts from a single sheet, but I would never be able to create the perfect edges that the table saw makes. Trying to using a circular saw or jig saw to make the cutouts would result in a pretty crappy result - at least that's been my experience with me and hand held power saws.

These joints are actually a lot stronger than screwed frame joints in 2x4 construction. In fact, properly mated edge to edge joints with dowels are stronger than the surrounding wood. I also laid out the panels such that weight closes the joints rather than stresses them.

The sides are solid ply and are carrying much of the load too.

I choose birch plywood for the reasons of lightweight construction and aesthetics, both inside and out, not really for speed and ease of construction. Beyond a fish tank stand, I'm making a piece of furniture for my daughter that I hope she'll have for many years.

Now having said all that, you can bet that I WILL be testing this in my garage under a full tank of water before it goes in my kids bedroom!

 

[uncleof6]

Fair question. I thought about doing cutouts from a single sheet, but I would never be able to create the perfect edges that the table saw makes. Trying to using a circular saw or jig saw to make the cutouts would result in a pretty crappy result - at least that's been my experience with me and hand held power saws.

These joints are actually a lot stronger than screwed frame joints in 2x4 construction. In fact, properly mated edge to edge joints with dowels are stronger than the surrounding wood. I also laid out the panels such that weight closes the joints rather than stresses them.

The sides are solid ply and are carrying much of the load too.

I choose plywood for the reasons of lightweight construction and aesthetics, both inside and out, not really for speed and ease of construction. Beyond a fish tank stand, I'm making a piece of furniture for my daughter that I hope she'll have for many years.

Now having said all that, you can bet that I WILL be testing this in my garage under a full tank of water before it goes in my kids bedroom!

I am a strong proponent of nothing more than a plywood box for standard size tanks. A router does a nice job of making cutouts. You have done good work, just see it as "too much" work.