370G Tank Preview

Art,
I wouldnt trust the silicone, if at all possible. Even drilling a small hole and just screwing in a tiny threaded barb adapter to push the tubing onto would be better, IMO. I try to leave as little room for Mr. Murphy as possible:)
 
Underwaterexotic: I got my ceramic rock from www.omegareef.com. It's not listed on their website so you'll have to call them.

Nick: I do plan to use live rock. I have about 500lbs that's been cooking since Feb. My aquascaping plan is to have the 3 pillars as shown in that pic front and center. To the right will be a large island that sweeps slightly behind the pillars and to the left will be a rock wall that leans agains tle left wall and sweeps behind the pillars and slightly in front of the island on the right. We'll see what happens. I'll most likely use an acrylic rack for the rockwall to keep it open underneath. I may also put a bridge between the wall and island if things work out.

Chris: I think I'll just put another T on the manifold with a 1/4" barb and run the airline from that. Seems the safest option.

Thanks,

Art
 
That rock is riffkeramik from aquaconnect. We use it here in europe, because is cheaper than live rock.

It gets coated with coraline in two - three months and is very porous.
When i put mine in the water it floated because of the air traped inside. You have to shake it a little for the air to get out.

Although porous, it's still too heavy for my liking. I much prefer one that is gaining popularity here in the last months. It's dead live rock and even cheaper than riffkeramik. It's sold under various forms, reef rock, coral rock, plates and branches. It's a true calcareous rock , very natural looking and also much lighter than riffkeramik.

Riifkeramik:

http://store.aquaristic.net/AQ9f3da...659/app/details.php?shop=1,310,0,0,id1307,,0,

Dead live rock:

http://store.aquaristic.net/AQ9f3da...659/app/details.php?shop=1,310,0,0,id1491,,0,

http://store.aquaristic.net/AQ9f3da...659/app/details.php?shop=1,310,0,0,id1490,,0,

http://store.aquaristic.net/AQ9f3da...659/app/details.php?shop=1,310,0,0,id5349,,0,

http://store.aquaristic.net/AQ9f3da...659/app/details.php?shop=1,310,0,0,id1492,,0,


Alex
 
Hi Alex,

Thanks for the links. I don't think we can get the dead live rock here in the states. The closes is base rock which is mined rock - very heavy. I think I'd prefer the dead live rock and just spend some time curing it...

Art
 
The stuff at www.reeferrocks.com is really good. It was live rock that is now dead. Its porous and the customer service is great. You guys should check them out. When I was getting my stuff he sent me a pic and then i circled (in mspaint) the ones I didn't want and he showed me new ones. He did it a few times, very good service.
Paul
 
I have 120lbs of the Hirocks stuff. It's not bad, but extremely heavy and not that porous. I did get some very big pieces though and I like that - Big is good for the bottom pieces.

I put 4 big pieces in my 215 a few weeks ago and they are already starting to blend in. One problem I had is that in addition to being heavy, they are very, very hard. I drilled into them to insert acrylic rods (as feet) and basically ruined a few masonry bits. I don't know what this stuff is, but it's harder than cement. I was able to drill through the live rock like it was styrofoam.

Art
 
did you try drilling through the cermanic rock from Greg yet?

i am wondering how hard it would be to drill through and if i would even risk it!

i cant wait to get my rock!

any new progress on the tank this weekend?

thanks!

Nick
 
Nick,

I haven't tried drilling the cermanic stuff - but it really doesn't look like it'll be hard with a masonry bit.

As far as progress - I took a ste back last week. It turns out that the single entry union ballvalves I decided to use for each bulkhead are not really "unions". They union part is only to be used when the valve is dry for replacing the ball part of the valve. I found this out while doing the wet test and finding a slight leak in my old OceansMotions 4-way. I closed the ball valve and removed the union and had the ball fall out and water fly everywhere.

So, as it turns out I'm going to cut out all the ballvalves and replace them.

The good news is that Paul at OceansMotions really took care of me with the leaky 4-way. He's a real class act and has unbelievable customer service.

Art
 
Yeah i just looked at how much i am going to spend on true union ball valves and its ALOT! but i guess its worth it. i think it will be about 200ish for the ones with unions on both sides. so i guess they are worth it.

Nick
 
Paul,

I have. Only a few sources for noise:

1. Overflows. I don't have room for durso's in the overflow chamber so I've put a 2" to 4" reducer on top of the 2" standpipe and have 4" mesh around the top of it. The water will only fall about 1" into the chamber. I've heard that this will stop most of the gurgling noise. If not then my next plan is to put a Stockman in there.

2. The closed loop pump. I'm using a Sequence Dart which is known to be pretty quiet. I doubt that I'll hear it through the overflow noise :)

3. The Tunze's may make noise since they're pushed up against the chamber wall. If so, put a gasket (made of 2" flexspa) between the Tunze and the wall to buffer the noise.

Other than that I don't expect much noise in the house. The sump room may get noisey, but who cares.

Art
 
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