suppressivefire
New member
I don't see how there can be that much siphon considering how high my returns are and how we plumbed the tank. also any ideas for sump baffles see other thread or post here.
40 Breeder project(s) Thread
- Thread starter suppressivefire
- Start date
SkiFletch
New member
depends on the water level you set in the sump. IMO, your biggest problem is going to be topoff. You'll need to keep the level of your sump low to counter the draining water. And along with dual tanks, evap is going to be very high, likely causing the need for topoff at least once per day if not twice.
suppressivefire
New member
I plan an auto top off system with a hefty holding tank with ro-di water.
acdraindrps
New member
An OM 4-way would work out nice with your setup.
suppressivefire
New member
new skimmer!
box and inbox pic
lid
pump
box and inbox pic
lid
pump
Conesus_Kid
Premium Member
You're going to like that skimmer!
suppressivefire
New member
I hope, I have heard good things about it. im planning on modding it also.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11744018#post11744018 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by acdraindrps
In your case you can't, because you are using drilled returns. We have the same problem at the store. When the power went out the other day, the floor had about 40 gallons of water on it.
The only thing you can do is have a sump big enough to hold all the water that will drain when the power goes out. Simulate a power outage after your setup, and hope for the best. If your sump won't hold all the water from the back syphon, I hope your tank isn't on the second floor
A drilled return can still have a siphon break on it, it just takes a bit more work. Here is a couple ways it could be done...
1.) From your drilled return I imagine that you are going to have some sort of directional elbow or lockline submerged to return water. You can drill a 1/4" hole in the top of it, heat some 1/4" rigid airline into a "U" shape, and glue one end into the drilled hole, with the other just below the water surface.
2.) Rout your plumbing on the wet side of the bulkhead fitting to come up out of the water, then dip back in. drill the siphon break hole near the water surface where the piping breaks the water's surface.
There are other ways this can be done, just use your imagination.
Good Luck
cardiffgiant
Active member
Such a nice skimmer. You're going to like it.
In case you haven't seen it yet, here is the RC thread for NW150 mods. Everything from opening to the venturi a bit more, to gate valves, to home made needle wheels, to 4 foot necks.
The gate valve mode might be a good one for you to reduce any surface disruption in your sump.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=898776
suppressivefire
New member
Thanks Chris, but with my tank setup it isnt really needed and from what i can see on "mine" it won't work either. You will see when i post pics w/ tanks filled.
ps awsome pic/drawings!
Thanks for your help again
suppressivefire
New member
Ok more pics of the progress!
This is to simulate a power outage.(to all of you that i would have to much drainback and siphoning
)
sump to show no water in yet but showing how even with water ill have more than enough room for drain off.
top tank
middle tank
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sump baffles siliconed in.
"Southard Style baffles"
:lol:
For higher flow sump to slow down the water and help micro bubbles to rise, Also the gaps are all different and in place to evenly distribute the water if you know what I mean. (this is done because the left side would have rushed in to the pump bulkhead quicker than the far side so that had to be compensated.)
Comments
:rollface:
This is to simulate a power outage.(to all of you that i would have to much drainback and siphoning
)
sump to show no water in yet but showing how even with water ill have more than enough room for drain off.
top tank
middle tank
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sump baffles siliconed in.
"Southard Style baffles"
:lol:
For higher flow sump to slow down the water and help micro bubbles to rise, Also the gaps are all different and in place to evenly distribute the water if you know what I mean. (this is done because the left side would have rushed in to the pump bulkhead quicker than the far side so that had to be compensated.)
Comments
:rollface:
teamdulski
The Saltiest!
Those baffles are killer.
suppressivefire
New member
Thanks lol, something new.
acdraindrps
New member
Cool idea. Are they sturdy?
suppressivefire
New member
Extremely, surprisingly enough.
cardiffgiant
Active member
I'm really interested to see that sump in action! I haven't seen that technique for baffles before. Did you come up with that?
suppressivefire
New member
well I used tank silicone, and yes it was our idea.
suppressivefire
New member
heres the flow for the top tank (mainly sps tank) I used a air pump to show the flow. What do you guys think?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ku11VqrX4VU&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ku11VqrX4VU&feature=related
teamdulski
The Saltiest!
Good so far, I might aim them a little lower to get the bottom water of the tank moving in an upward fashion. Plus its going to change a lot once your rock is in place.
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