40 Breeder project(s) Thread

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11190420#post11190420 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by suppressivefire
Thanks for all the input, I have used that stand for 30 longs so i thought it would be ok but i guess not. I going to ditch the shelves and build a stand as many suggested. And being new to the plumbing how does the durso work/look like. And I was hoping to get a pump that has a low voltage/ cheaper to run, Im looking to not have to use power heads if possible. Is there an alternative pump that would fit the job?
As for the car im planning to restore it and go pro-street, Its a 72 cutlass/442 with a 350 rocket, a turbo 400 trans and 12 bolt posi.
Click to expand...

From what I was able to find about durso's, they provide a larger volume of water around the drain so that it makes less noise.

http://www.dursostandpipes.com/

standpipe.jpg
 
So a t off the bulkhead w/ a cap and an air hole?
any suggestions on the pump or how to lay out the plumbing thats my biggest concern. thanks!
-chris
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11194785#post11194785 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by suppressivefire
So a t off the bulkhead w/ a cap and an air hole?
any suggestions on the pump or how to lay out the plumbing thats my biggest concern. thanks!
-chris
Click to expand...

If you have the room, try to use a sweeping T. You install these with the curve going from the bulkhead down towards the sump and the top of the T has an extension and a cap. The sweep helps reduce water noise.

As for the pump, you can do a couple things.

1. Pump to the top tank, have it drain to the middle then drain to the sump.
2. Pump to each tank and have each drain to the sump.

You should determine the flow you want, then get the right sized pump. Use the RC head loss calc to determine the correct flow for your setup. From there I would make sure you have a bypass from the pump back into the sump, so that if the pump's flow is too much, you can divert some of it to the sump. This can also help reduce noise.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11197557#post11197557 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chrisguy
If you have the room, try to use a sweeping T. You install these with the curve going from the bulkhead down towards the sump and the top of the T has an extension and a cap. The sweep helps reduce water noise.

As for the pump, you can do a couple things.

1. Pump to the top tank, have it drain to the middle then drain to the sump.
2. Pump to each tank and have each drain to the sump.

You should determine the flow you want, then get the right sized pump. Use the RC head loss calc to determine the correct flow for your setup. From there I would make sure you have a bypass from the pump back into the sump, so that if the pump's flow is too much, you can divert some of it to the sump. This can also help reduce noise.
Click to expand...
Ok I was planning on the # 2. also i want alot of flow for sps and also not having any power heads. for the pump going to get flow to all 4 3/4" bulk heads with equal flow.
thank you for your help to Chris.:)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11201918#post11201918 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by suppressivefire
morning bump. the main problem lies with how to get 4 pipes out of one inlet of the pump correctly.
Click to expand...

You are going to need to use gate valves so you can control how much flow goes out each outlet. The reason is, if you do not have the gate valves to close off the output to the lower tank, with the head pressure the lower tank would get the majority of the flow while the top tank would get little to none.

This is why I recommended pumping to the top tank and having that flow to the second tank. It's easier to control. However it will be harder to deal with micro bubbles and noise.

Another option is two smaller pumps.
 
Chris,
Your best bet would be to come off of the dart to a manifold, like one listed here and go to each return that you have, with ball valves on each return. If the top tank feeds the bottom tank, you will definately be dealing with micro bubbles, like chrisguy said.

As for the drains I would make some kind of durso. I found some bulkheads on that same website with sweeps built into the backs of them that would work perfect for an external durso, and save space.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11269839#post11269839 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by acdraindrps
Chris,
Your best bet would be to come off of the dart to a manifold, like one listed here and go to each return that you have, with ball valves on each return.
Click to expand...
I would recoment gate valves as they are easier to fine tune than ball valves.
 
Seeing this for the first time, I think you will have way to much flow trough the sump. It would better, in my opinion to give each tank it own closed loop, and then use 1 smaller pump for the filter loop. This being said, you seem pretty far along so...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11270673#post11270673 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chrisguy
I would recoment gate valves as they are easier to fine tune than ball valves.
Click to expand...
thats what i was planning.
also im planning to go the way stashu sp? dave for the plumbing.
 
Made a decent amount of head-way with my build.
Got the new dart pump earlier in the week.
friday7th014fi1.jpg

Almost dont with the stand here are some progression shots.
40breederstand001zq3.jpg

40breederstand003iu9.jpg


Let me know what you guys think!:rollface:
 
yea that stand is deff way better. I just came back home with about $60 in plumbing.

Ill keep all you updated and thanks for tagging along :)
 
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