40g Breeder question

[dwdenny]

I am hoping to setup my 40g breeder very soon(been a year in the making). I have been research and reading and reading and reseaarching. lol I love SPS but I really love the LPS and zoas more. On lighting I was originally going to go with T5HO but I was thinking that a 4X95w VHO might be a little better. However I am not sure if they will fit in the canopy. It is 36.5" Long but the side barces make it 35 3/4" for the first inch. Will the Standoffs and endcaps will I have enough length in my canopy for 3' bulbs or should I go with a 4X24w and stagger them. I was planning on 2 actinicwhite and two superactinics. Give me your opinions and comments. I want growth but really interested in color and of course overall health. Thans for your info in advance.

Here are a couple pics of the DIY stand and canopy.

Doug

 

[DesertBandits]

VHO blue looks great, but VHO white bulbs are pure trash. Go look at some VHO only tanks on RC and notice how pink they are. Once you notice it, you can't ever go back to liking that look again.
IMO, go with T5, I just bought some for my new tank a month ago and they are absolutely awesome. T5 is the new cutting edge technology, they are even 10% more efficient than MH (even money vs HQI). They have very low energy consumption, and huge light output, and you only have to change bulbs every 2 years, rather than every year. 2 aquablues and 2 bluepluses would let you keep anything you want in that 40. Of course, I'm speaking of the Tek retrofits at Reefgeek.com, anyway good luck with whatever you choose.

 

[dwdenny]

See that is the problem I want lower light corals as well. The T5HO are good that you cannot keep some stuff. I was thinking 4X24w so the ends are little less intense. I knew the aquasuns are pinkish but not the 50/50 bulb. I have been research T5' for about a year and not sure if that is the wayt o go with an LPS type tank.

 

[Thurge]

I would recommend T-5 also. I got a 4x24w at Valentines, for my Nano Mantis Reef and it looks awsome. No other way to describe it. Granted it was an upgrade from PC but the light is very chisp, unlike the hazeyness PC gives off. Also you mentioned color as one of your deciding factors, with T-5 you have 5 different bulbs to choose from to get your perfect balance.
My zoos are looking phenominal, even better than the reef. My Hippous clam is glowing green, the Sarcophytons are blowing up, dwarf carpet anemony is dividing like mad.

 

[bigfruits]

i have 2 uri pure actinic vho bulbs over my 46 bowfront. im going to probably add 2 t5 aquablues with icecap reflectors from reefgeek. (tek retro upgraded with icecap reflectors)

 

[dwdenny]

That is an option for sure 2 aguablues and 2 VHO actinics. My question is the frame for me canopy is 1X2 would the 36" VHO including the encaps fit. It is something like 35.75" but 1 3/4 down it is 36.5" long. I think it will work but not 100% sure. What do you all think.

 

[davejnz]

With an 18" wide tank,you can install your 4 T5's(use the 39w's IMO)all the way up in the front of the canopy.This will leave approx 5"(if useing IC SLR's)of room in the back of the canopy that wont be lit.I use this configuration on my 75(same 18"width)and have found the back of the tank to be a good place for lower light corals.

 

[dwdenny]

good idea Dave. That will work or at least it should. Might have to reduce the sandbed depth or go BB with DSB in the fuge. That way there is a little more depth in the tank.

Thanks everyone

 

[davejnz]

I went BB in my 40breeder as well as my 75.I like the fact that you can grow stoneys on the starboard bottom.As you know,40 breeders are shallow and the 1/2" starboard is a good idea for this shallow tank IMO.This was my first attempt with the BB/Bomber/SPS forum(heavy skimming,high flow,regular detritus siphoning,rock cooking,little to no feeding) method of running this type of system.IME,this method does not work well for LPS tanks.After trying it out for 7 months,I had more problems/deaths in the tank than any of my 3 previous tank combined.I have since switched back to my old methods that have always worked.Feeding the corals every other night and adding a RDSB in the sump for extra denitrification/stablility.Since the changes,the tank is much more stable and growth/health of my corals has improved dramatically.

 

[dwdenny]

Thanks Dave. I will be keeping a RDSB in my sump/fuge. I am currently trying to figure out how and where to place the fuge part. I was thinking from left to right: Retrun/Fuge/Skimmer section. It will be 25X14X17 inside dimesions. I was thinking of each section as above these dimensions return(6"X14"X13"), Fuge(8.5"X14"X13") and the Skimmer section(8"X14"X13") There will be an extra 3.5" for the occational power outages. I will be using an external pump on the return something like a pan world PX-30 or there about. I think if I have a 6" DSB in the fuge with macro I should be fine and be able to grow pods and stuff easily. Thnaks for everyones help.