45g DIY Cube Documentation
- Thread starter Milleme
- Start date
Milleme
New member
Wet test today was successful, I filled the tank and let it sit for a couple of hours and no leaks.
Now I need to build the external overflow box. It will be made out of 1/2" acrylic also. The overflow is 12" long so Im gonna make the box 14" long 8" tall and 4.5" wide. Does any one see any problems with this?
I also need help to determine the GPH I will need going through my sump. My return pump will "T" off at least once, between the display and the fuge. But I am gonna put a "T" before that incase I add a chiller, uv, or any other reactors. I am considering the Gen-X PCX-30 (982.7 gph @ 14.5') for the return pump. What do yall think. Also will one 1" bulkhead be enough for the drain or should I put two just in case? Heres is a pic of a scetch of the plumbing and equiptment I drew so yall can see what Im talking about.
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Now I need to build the external overflow box. It will be made out of 1/2" acrylic also. The overflow is 12" long so Im gonna make the box 14" long 8" tall and 4.5" wide. Does any one see any problems with this?
I also need help to determine the GPH I will need going through my sump. My return pump will "T" off at least once, between the display and the fuge. But I am gonna put a "T" before that incase I add a chiller, uv, or any other reactors. I am considering the Gen-X PCX-30 (982.7 gph @ 14.5') for the return pump. What do yall think. Also will one 1" bulkhead be enough for the drain or should I put two just in case? Heres is a pic of a scetch of the plumbing and equiptment I drew so yall can see what Im talking about.
woz9683
Premium Member
sac-bobme had it right, for filling in those gaps you probably should have used weld-on #16. It has better filling properties than #3 or #4 because it has acrylic mixed in with the chemical solvents.
Also, you probably should have let it sit more than a few hours before water testing it. That's probably why it developed a leak in the first place. Not trying to rain on your parade, but I'd leave it full of water for at least a week or two in the garage or somewhere like that because filling it with water that soon put a lot of stress on very new joints, and it might develop more leaks.
In general, you want to wait at least 24 hours before water testing your joints, 72 hours is more acceptable, and at 1 week your joints will be close to full strength so it's best to wait that long.
The tank may be perfectly fine, but IMO it's better to find out now than to find out when it's full of fish/corals and sitting on your desk.
Also, you probably should have let it sit more than a few hours before water testing it. That's probably why it developed a leak in the first place. Not trying to rain on your parade, but I'd leave it full of water for at least a week or two in the garage or somewhere like that because filling it with water that soon put a lot of stress on very new joints, and it might develop more leaks.
In general, you want to wait at least 24 hours before water testing your joints, 72 hours is more acceptable, and at 1 week your joints will be close to full strength so it's best to wait that long.
The tank may be perfectly fine, but IMO it's better to find out now than to find out when it's full of fish/corals and sitting on your desk.
Milleme
New member
woz9683, thanx for the reply. I might go get some #16 then. I did wait 24 hours to test it this time and so far no leaks but ill let it sit a couple more days to make sure. BTW I like that octopus, is it yours by any chance?
So wats the secret to bubble free joints? I still have to make the sump as well so any pointers are greatly appreciated! My questions 2 posts above about the drain and return still remain.
So wats the secret to bubble free joints? I still have to make the sump as well so any pointers are greatly appreciated! My questions 2 posts above about the drain and return still remain.
manderx
New member
the secret to a bubble-free joint with #3 or #4 is to have a perfect edge before gluing. also i've seen where people use a bunch of tiny wedges underneath the whole thing to push up on the joint from below wherever there's a bubble.
i hate #16. it's always runnier than i remember (whoops) and it dries full of bubbles. i really like #40. it's thicker, dries pretty, doesn't need hardly any edge prep for a good pretty bond and is much stronger than anything else i've used. it is a pain that it's a 2-part epoxy though.
i hate #16. it's always runnier than i remember (whoops) and it dries full of bubbles. i really like #40. it's thicker, dries pretty, doesn't need hardly any edge prep for a good pretty bond and is much stronger than anything else i've used. it is a pain that it's a 2-part epoxy though.
Milleme
New member
Well I finished the overflow for the tank and the sump. I will get pics of that and some of the equiptment and rocks up later. Right now I have to decide on a new skimmer. I want the new BM-160 but it is too expensive. Does any one have any other suggestions, its been so long since I've really looked at skimmers I don't know whats out there.
Milleme
New member
The reason I am needing a new skimmer is because I broke my current Rs3-5 :mad2: :mad2: (I was still to mad yesterday to post) while I was cleaning it. In a way its good because now I can upgrade although I will probably just end up getting the RS80 which is basicaly just a new model of what I had unless some one objects and points me in the direction of another skimmer less than 300$ that is better. Here is a pic of where it broke, it can probably be fixed with a little DIY work so if you are interested I will sell it for cheap. Just shoot me a PM with an offer.
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Pic of the finished overflow box on the tank.
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Pic of the sump with baffles in position but not glued yet.
This is the cabinet that will house the kalk reactor, RO storage, electrical, chiller (????), ballast, etc...
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Here is a pic of the kalk reactor I purchased a while ago and my rocks cooking as well. Sorry I forgot to post these pics earlier but here they are now....
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This clears up all the updates to this point. Tomarow I am leaving for vacationso dont expect any new progress but feel free to leave me any commets or suggestions.
Pic of the finished overflow box on the tank.
Pic of the sump with baffles in position but not glued yet.
This is the cabinet that will house the kalk reactor, RO storage, electrical, chiller (????), ballast, etc...
Here is a pic of the kalk reactor I purchased a while ago and my rocks cooking as well. Sorry I forgot to post these pics earlier but here they are now....
This clears up all the updates to this point. Tomarow I am leaving for vacationso dont expect any new progress but feel free to leave me any commets or suggestions.
Milleme
New member
Well im back but tomarow i leave again to Mississippi with a church group..... so nothing new on the build.
Heres a cople pics of my African Flameback to keep things intresting until I get back.
I also have this hosptial pump but can not figure out how to get it to workon my layout. Any suggestions?
Heres a cople pics of my African Flameback to keep things intresting until I get back.
I also have this hosptial pump but can not figure out how to get it to workon my layout. Any suggestions?
Milleme
New member
I am home, again.... Anyways, today I ordered a Precision Marine ES 100 with sedar 7000 pump. It is rated for 100 gal. so I will have a nice clean tank (also room to upgrade). Any one have commets on this skimmer? I am waiting for the skimmer to arive before I glue in the baffles for the sump. I need it to help plan the waters route and incorporate a bubble trap. I will post a pic or diagram of the sump layout for any interested later this week when I figure it out.
BTW, if a mod reads this, I would like to get this thread moved to the Reef Discussion forum if possible.
BTW, if a mod reads this, I would like to get this thread moved to the Reef Discussion forum if possible.
Milleme
New member
Well the skimmer arived today, this thing is gonna rip! The quality and craftsmanship really stands out to me more than my old Euro Reef. Heres a pic.
I also took an old 10 gallon tank to a friends glass shop and used her dremel tool to cut a hole for the bulkhead. Nothing too exciting so Im not gonna bother posting a pic but will later once it is plumbed in.
Sorry this is probably gonna end up being a slow build since Im on a teenage budget, but it will get there. The next stepis the stand then I can start plumbing and getting it ready for water. Im hopping to be done before the end of summer.
I also took an old 10 gallon tank to a friends glass shop and used her dremel tool to cut a hole for the bulkhead. Nothing too exciting so Im not gonna bother posting a pic but will later once it is plumbed in.
Sorry this is probably gonna end up being a slow build since Im on a teenage budget, but it will get there. The next stepis the stand then I can start plumbing and getting it ready for water. Im hopping to be done before the end of summer.
Scuba_Steve
Premium Member
I have the same size tank (glass) and I loved it. Its the best size you can have for a single 250w halide. The only complaint I had on mine was the internal overflow getting in the way, but you got around that one. Ill be following along.
Kentanner11
New member
It can be done on a teenage budget, Im doing a 55 right now, and am a teenager (who's out of work durring the summer)
lol! looks great! Good luck!:rollface: :rollface: :rollface:
Milleme
New member
Since this is an acrylic tank does it need to be set ontop of a layer of foam or is it small enough to get by? I need to know this soon because I am planning the stand now. If it needs to sit on foam I will have to figure out a way to cover that up when I build the stand.
Kentanner11 thanx for the encouragment. I got my first job this summer and that has helped a lot with this setup so far.
Kentanner11 thanx for the encouragment. I got my first job this summer and that has helped a lot with this setup so far.
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