50 Gallon Cab Refurb

[jonwright]

So my 155 bowfront build/office/man-cave build is on hiatus http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2416181 and since I finally found a nice 36" tank that fit right exactly where my current ganked up 40 gal sits, I decided to do a project "real quick" that I figured might be a weekend or two.



And even as I thought that I surmised I'm still optimistic with a weekend or two. Ho, boy - WRONG.

So I drove 2 hours to look at the thing and when I got there it wasn't any surprise that it wasn't nearly as nice as I thought it would be (you KNOW that looking at used aquarium stuff from Craigslist - but still....).

And in loading it up I didn't really notice the rot in the *GAG* MDF supporting the stand. But when I got home I really did notice it.

Bottom line is for $150 I got a tank that holds water, a stand that's nicely trimmed, and a pump - and a leaky acrylic sump with Mh light. Eh.

Once I got home I studied on what needed to be done. Basically what had happened is that the sump cracked right in the middle of the sump and by looking at the ply shelf on the bottom they set the sump right in the middle of the ply panel that's not even 1/8" thick. So no wonder it cracked after a while.

<a href="http://s1317.photobucket.com/user/jonwright3803/media/50%20Gal%20Refurb/IMG_15691_zps53b82011.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t638/jonwright3803/50%20Gal%20Refurb/IMG_15691_zps53b82011.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_15691_zps53b82011.jpg"/></a>

The thin plywood bowed. In the pic above you can see where the salt creep was getting into the unfinished ply. It also soaked the MDF bottom support frame, then wicked up the back. The rest of the wood and 3/4" ply wood looked to be just fine.

Here's a sampling of the MDF that I removed - the back and the bottom of the stand:

<a href="http://s1317.photobucket.com/user/jonwright3803/media/50%20Gal%20Refurb/IMG_15631_zps802ffb18.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t638/jonwright3803/50%20Gal%20Refurb/IMG_15631_zps802ffb18.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_15631_zps802ffb18.jpg"/></a>

 

[jonwright]

So after removal of the bottom frame that the stand sat upon, the back, and the top that the tank sat on, I was left with three sides of plywood pocket screwed together.

I used some scrap 3/4" plywood laying around the shop to recreate the back, bottom, and tank frame on top. Just ripped on the table saw, applied Titebond 2 and 3 with pocket screws. Only thing to this was that I wanted the screws to be on the OUTSIDE, so as you build backwards like a face frame it was the same here.

The back is 5 pieces put in place. Bottom is a frame with one support in the middle, and the top is another face frame with 2 supports.

Took me no more than a couple hours to get everything just perfect, screwed up, glued and nailed back into place.

The ply is all dimensionaly correct, I glued up using a square for reference. They just all popped right into place. No shims. No nuthin' for correction. Easy squeasey nice n peasy.

Here's the back:

<a href="http://s1317.photobucket.com/user/jonwright3803/media/50%20Gal%20Refurb/IMG_15661_zps67469cb2.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t638/jonwright3803/50%20Gal%20Refurb/IMG_15661_zps67469cb2.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_15661_zps67469cb2.jpg"/></a>

Notice back is in between bottom support frame (that I replaced), the sides of the stand (held in place there with 18ga nails and glue) and the top.

 

[jonwright]

Here is the bottom frame.

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No thang, glued to bottom and nailed in.

Oh, and also put in 2 3/4" panels on top of the bottom frame for an inside shelf. I did need to level this one out a bit since I assembled flat side to the floor. I used 2 different plys and the thickness was off about .010" (yes, that's correct). I also FORGOT to put in the shelf prior to the top frame. So now I had to put the bottom shelf in 2 pieces. Otherwise wouldn't fit.

<a href="http://s1317.photobucket.com/user/jonwright3803/media/50%20Gal%20Refurb/IMG_15641_zpsdfac800f.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t638/jonwright3803/50%20Gal%20Refurb/IMG_15641_zpsdfac800f.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_15641_zpsdfac800f.jpg"/></a>

 

[jonwright]

This gives you a better idea of how it is constructed. The main 3/4" ply walls are on the outside (and flush) with the edge of the frame - so the supporting structure sits on top on the bottom frame. then you have the square oak base, then the curved trim on top on the outside.

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I really like how they layered the trim in construction of the stand. Don't care for all the MDF they used. I get why from a construction standpoint - but horrible for tanks.

Final paint shot of the stand. Here you can also see the top frame where the tank will sit.

<a href="http://s1317.photobucket.com/user/jonwright3803/media/50%20Gal%20Refurb/IMG_15781_zps591a3fe2.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t638/jonwright3803/50%20Gal%20Refurb/IMG_15781_zps591a3fe2.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_15781_zps591a3fe2.jpg"/></a>

 

[jonwright]

Now to the hood. Previous owner has 4 freakin computer fans put in large holes. Besides the noise and rusted out appearance, I'm loathe for escaping ambient lights. So I set out to fix that.

The back portion of the hood had 2 raggedly cut holes. So for a bit of added air flow I used a 3/4" flat bit with multiple passes on the router to put in 3 slots between the holes.

<a href="http://s1317.photobucket.com/user/jonwright3803/media/50%20Gal%20Refurb/IMG_15581_zpsf4ec0900.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t638/jonwright3803/50%20Gal%20Refurb/IMG_15581_zpsf4ec0900.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_15581_zpsf4ec0900.jpg"/></a>

 

[jonwright]

I decided to construct a hood that would keep the light from escaping but allow some air flow. I took some more scrap wood, milled it down. Did a rabbet on the tops, mitered them together with some glue and couple nails. I'm really disappointed in how this turned out with the panel not being flush with the outside wood trim (AND I wound up somehow with paint application problems - fisheyes. Most likely due to contamination of who knows WHAT - downside of using scrap for projects like these).

But nonetheless you can see the rough assembly primed up and read for (bad) paint.

<a href="http://s1317.photobucket.com/user/jonwright3803/media/50%20Gal%20Refurb/9850d3f9-1e83-43b9-a57a-4ad220a48287_zps7b5ab258.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t638/jonwright3803/50%20Gal%20Refurb/9850d3f9-1e83-43b9-a57a-4ad220a48287_zps7b5ab258.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 9850d3f9-1e83-43b9-a57a-4ad220a48287_zps7b5ab258.jpg"/></a>

 

[jonwright]

In the pic above you can also see the mockup I did with the covers for the side holes. I thought about routing a slot all the way to the back - then when I looked at the hood from the back I really didn't see the point in doing that.

I carefully removed the trim, cut again to account for the 3/4" ply that's now covering the fan hole.

Here you can see the trim removed and hole visible.

<a href="http://s1317.photobucket.com/user/jonwright3803/media/50%20Gal%20Refurb/IMG_15571_zps22697517.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t638/jonwright3803/50%20Gal%20Refurb/IMG_15571_zps22697517.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_15571_zps22697517.jpg"/></a>

 

[jonwright]

Trim reapplied with micro nail and glue (of course), final paint.

<a href="http://s1317.photobucket.com/user/jonwright3803/media/50%20Gal%20Refurb/IMG_15801_zpsfbeeb7ca.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t638/jonwright3803/50%20Gal%20Refurb/IMG_15801_zpsfbeeb7ca.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_15801_zpsfbeeb7ca.jpg"/></a>

I really like how the 3/4" was just shy of the trim rails by about 1/16" or so. Nice shadow line that follows the detail in the trim.

If you look at the very front I added a 1/2" by 3" birch ply piece there. The hood was roughly 1/8" too wide and was barely on top of the tank - so when I glued/nailed the piece in I pulled the front ends together so they were tight to the tank again AND would keep the hood from sliding back as I lift the top (it's heavy and barely on the support rails). Problem was, the hood didn't close (it's constructed so the trim and ply top slide together. So I had to break out the chisel and make it all work again. Not as bad I thought, but if they are sharp and you are a bit patient and don't rush it's not too bad.

 

[jonwright]

The paint took me the better part of a week itself. I used Sherwin Williams All Surface Enamel, Oil based (about all that's left in oil). High gloss. Stock white for inside (I wanted to be able to see what I was doing in there) and the outside stock gloss black.

I had planned to keep it simple and just brush it. The inside shows more brush marks that I like - and yup - I used Purdy china white brush so that wasn't it.

By the time I had sanded the whole thing, chemically deglossed the outside I said, WTH and pulled out the HVLP sprayer. With just a bit of additional research I settled on thinning 10% with paint thinner and 10% of naptha to speed up the dry time (it was VERY humid out).

I got very luck 'cause I sure don't know what affects what. Really nice shine - looked kinda orange peel right after application but it settled extremely smooth. I was very pleased. Used 1/2 quart to paint all the cab on the outside.

Then I did another coat. HORRIBLE. Couldn't get it to spray right, was completely orange peeled. If a little of Naptha was good, then a bit more was better to get the final coat finished up. I did @5% thinner and 15% Naptha. WRONG. The paint is very thick and needs a bit of time to settle, I BELIEVE.

So I waited another day, bought one more pint of gloss black from SW, thinned 10% paint thinner and 10% naptha. Paint settled back to a really nice gloss that's shiny enough to show the grain in the oak (which I like).

<a href="http://s1317.photobucket.com/user/jonwright3803/media/50%20Gal%20Refurb/IMG_15771_zpsbfbd947b.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t638/jonwright3803/50%20Gal%20Refurb/IMG_15771_zpsbfbd947b.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_15771_zpsbfbd947b.jpg"/></a>

 

[jonwright]

Another shot of the final coat on the stand. This is not wet paint.

I was at first after brushing the inside of the stand to take back the enamel and rattle-can it. I'm glad I didn't. It was worth it for just a bit more effort and time.

<a href="http://s1317.photobucket.com/user/jonwright3803/media/50%20Gal%20Refurb/IMG_15721_zps8fbf403e.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t638/jonwright3803/50%20Gal%20Refurb/IMG_15721_zps8fbf403e.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_15721_zps8fbf403e.jpg"/></a>

Now to look after a few other details that could spoil the whole cab (holes in the top and putting the blasted cap over the holes on it).

I'll get final shots after the paint has had a bit more time to cure.

 

[jonwright]

So now it's time to build a sump, plumb the tank, install pump, figure out ATO and build tank for that (most likely), do a bit of wiring on the light, then test everything, adjust pump/flow/sump/leak test/temp test with light on, install cab and level, then install/transfer the critters.

For a quick project I think I'll be done in Feb if I'm lucky.

 

[jonwright]

<a href="http://s1317.photobucket.com/user/jonwright3803/media/50%20Gal%20Refurb/IMG_15841_zps1af768b5.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t638/jonwright3803/50%20Gal%20Refurb/IMG_15841_zps1af768b5.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_15841_zps1af768b5.jpg"/></a>

 

[jonwright]

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[Saltydrip]

Well done!!

 

[jonwright]

So now I have my sump done - and a little ATO box that I made as practice prior to putting together the sump. It's overly tall to ensure I have enough space for turning the pump off. I've crunched the numbers so I should be OK, but I had plenty of room going up.

It's very short since I'm not interested in cutting out the sides to slide a full length assembled sump in the cab. So the width was determined by the opening in the doors.

Finished:

 

[jonwright]

I had messed up the bottom by gluing in a baffle too proud to the bottom plane. I had meant to shave it down with a cabinet scraper but forgot. When I returned to the project I glued the bottom piece on. I didn't bother testing for water the seam was so poor.

I created a bunch of 3/8" or so strips and glued along the bottom seam. Here you can see the poor seam on the outside, then barely on the inside the strip. It's totally clear meaning that's a good bond.

 

[jonwright]

I used pliers and long scrap pieces of ply to manipulate the small strip under the middle baffle and created a tube to drip in the adhesive.

 

[jonwright]

Now for the top piece. I just freehanded it with pencil lines and my trusty jig saw. This is right after the cut. The lines are clean, no splinters, 90 to the top and bottom plane of the piece.

 

[jonwright]

This is BEFORE being cleaned up with sanding pad. Didn't bother with router template because I don't expect to be making repeated pieces.



Then I drilled holes for the bulkheads, glued, trim fit and eased the edges.

 

[jonwright]

Top:



Took me less than 30 minutes total to create the top piece and finish off the sump.